Hello from Semafore!
Well, it has been some time since I began the thread on GLEAM. After reviewing the posts from time to time, and refraining from adding my spin during that time, I get a better picture of what evolved.
Back in the beginning, October 2006, little did I realize how effective the process would be over the years. At first, I was only searching for a better, low-maintenance way to keep frets clean on a guitar. I lightly sanded a rounded contour, and removed the string worn spots. Then I took a small pair of chrome-plated round-steel scissors, and use them in a way to burnish the frets. WOW! Noticing a section of HO track nearby, I got the idea,'Try this on the rails!' DOUBLE WOW!
Further thoughts on how the wheel/track relationships, one for proto-type, one for scale-model, and particularly the electrical characteristics, and tests, encouraged the research. BTW, I am a normal HO modeller, and A/V technician, not MIT stuff. The results are still coming in.
type 'gleam' in the website search box, and I get 600 posts! That does't include modellers who do not use the forum, or reply to posts.
narrow the search to 'semafore' for my tech info. Other members who have their spin on the method, are not to be excluded, for their ideas may also add merit.
Around 1,500 days have past since my ONE-TIME gleam application. This was done extensively on a three-level HO project at SFRM.org of which no one has yet needed to clean other than a dry cotton T-shirt rag to occaisionally wipe off the rails. I retire my old railroad T's that way. We don't even use a track-clean car! Proto-type railroads don't either. In any event, a 1,500-day stretch with NO BRITE-BOY, fluids, and many wasted hours, is pretty significant. So, please do the homework. I have yet to see the end myself.
Take Care.
I have enjoyed reading your and others description of the Gleam process and intend to use it as soon as I complete all by ballasting.
I am getting ready to gleam here in a couple weeks. I have some Turtle Wax polish lying around, I assume I can use this? I have not read about anyone using it before, it is wax so I assume it will work just as well as the others?
My railroad, my rules!
The GLEAM process uses metal polish, not auto paint polish.
I personally use Mother's Mag Wheel Polish. A little can from Wal-****, purchased several years ago, looks like it will be a lifetime supply for a double-garage-filler that will eventually have about 200 meters of track.
As for the GLEAM method - two words. It works!!!
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
It is metal polish for the metal on/in the car. It is not "car wax."
Gleaming definitely works. Even without the polish it still works pretty good after the burnishing with the washer.
Springfield PA
semaforeWell, it has been some time since I began the thread on GLEAM. After reviewing the posts from time to time, and refraining from adding my spin during that time, I get a better picture of what evolved.
could you provide a link to that original post. The oldest one the search found, from october 2006, doesn't provide a complete description, and the forum is too slow at the moment to do the research.
thanks
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
gregc semafore: Well, it has been some time since I began the thread on GLEAM. After reviewing the posts from time to time, and refraining from adding my spin during that time, I get a better picture of what evolved. could you provide a link to that original post. The oldest one the search found, from october 2006, doesn't provide a complete description, and the forum is too slow at the moment to do the research. thanks
semafore: Well, it has been some time since I began the thread on GLEAM. After reviewing the posts from time to time, and refraining from adding my spin during that time, I get a better picture of what evolved.
Here ya go. http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/103273.aspx?PageIndex=1
If this site was any slower, it'd be going backwards.
-Ed
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit." -Aristotle
Don't know, try it and let us know, please? I'm as curious as the next modeller.
In a nutshell: Sand a counded contour on the railhead. Don't worry, this is a ONE-TIME process. I doubt the trains will even notice a micron is gone. Instead of this ' [ ', you'll have this ' ( ' fo rthe railhead. Look sideways to the left to see the contour. I use 400 grit wet/dry, then 699 grit. I wrap a small wood block and change frequently.
Wipe away the spoil with a cotton -T rag. Fruit of the Loom and BVD are good, too. Then use a Stainless Steel object to BURNISH the rail, because it is extremely hard, and will force the nickel alloy into itself. This will seal tiny mars, harden the coat, and resist the oxidation longer. Look at my Avatar photo for AFTER.
The final wipe will feel like the track was lubricated. There is none, and none needed. I have not been using the metal polish. Any liquid product will wick down the rail web, and then wick back up to the railhead. So this method is what I call a DRY-CLEAN method.
MORE BLAH:
With the railhead contoured, the tractive effort is smoother, wheels slip without chatter, trains run much quiter and smoother. The electrical contact is practically seamless, so the locomotive motors rreceive a steady clean power supply. Headlamp flicker is practically eliminated.
Arcing between the wheels and rails is greatly reduced. This also reduces the black carbon flux powder residue, a by-product of the arcing, that accumilates on the rails and wheels.
The SFRM.org HO helix, also 'gleamed', once ran a train with 5 large deisels(3 front, 2 mid) and 80 NMRA-standard coal and mixed cars, up. over, and back down, NO INCIDENT! This is 9 coils, 72"diameter, 2-track. Our Helix rating stands at "Unlimited".
Anothe test: It took 1 Hour for a Gandy Dancer (Bachmann) to travel 20 feet! Talk about creepin'! and over two turnouts with Insul-Frog. That means the single wheel for the frog travel picked up the opposite side without missing a beat. Usually a problem area.
I am glad to see some positive reaction, and also expect some negative. Any reaction shows member participation. Bravo!
Semafore,
Very glad to see that you're still here and active.
I'm just getting back to working on my layout and will be utilizing your technique. I work with metals and have no doubt as to the viability of the Gleam method.
Peace and High Greens
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"