Here's a couple of shots of the other water feature which I mentioned:
Wayne
thanks Wayne, I will try your method on a large sample. I have a 5' wide harbor scene and about 15' of river to model so I want to test all products out first. I have used 3 or 4 so far and not real happy with them. This sounds like a good solution.
- Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Thanks for your kind words, Bob.
The "water" is Durabond-90 patching plaster applied over plywood "river beds". It's probably between 1/8" and 1/4" thick in the scenes shown, although there's another water scene (no bridge, though) where it's over an inch thick. The plaster is levelled, then "worked" with drywall knives and in some cases, a damp sponge. It sets in about 90 minutes, after which it's left for a day or two to cure completely. Once hardened, it's very tough; ideal for creating waves and ripples that won't break off when dusted or vacuumed.
Next, I brush-painted the surface with interior latex house paint, using my "dirt" colour for the muddy or shallow water, and a grey/green to represent deeper water where the river empties into Lake Erie. "White water" effects were added using PollyScale Reefer White, applied with a smaller brush. After that dried for a day or two, the surface was given three coats of water-based high gloss urethane, applied as per the manufacturers directions, using a brush.
The resultant finish is very durable, and I often place my camera directly on the surface to get closer shots.
Wayne,
Nice work and great photos. I like your water too; what did you use? Very realistic!
I tried the "black" spray followed by "rust" and didn't like it either. I used Floquil paints, applied outdoors (the complete bridge is over 4' long, and wouldn't fit in the spray booth) using an airbrush. I made the "black" by mixing it with some grey primer, along with some brown and red. The "rust" was boxcar red, with oxide red and orange added. After mixing up some more paint, I re-did the whole bridge, spraying the rust colour first, then overspraying it with the black. I liked the way it turned out, as it looks decent under layout lighting.
I may add some chalk weathering when all of the areas around these bridges finally get the scenery installed. Here are the rest, which were painted during the same session:
Thomas,
Glad to hear that you tried my method and found it worked for you. I like to pass on ideas to help fellow modellers. I am still amazed at how well my 150' CV bridge looks.
For some of my steel bridge work I decided to use spray cans rather than the airbrush (hated that clean up with Paasch/prefer my brand new Iwata). The black I chose was NOT flat black but rather a spray paint meant for outdoor grills - ever so slightly lighter in shade than a pure flat black, yet not gray as I would use that word. I found it at Ace Hardware.
I also had a red primer that I have used often. What I did was hold both cans (very well shaken by the way) in my hands at the same time and sprayed at the same time with alternating bursts. The final result was that the rusty look of the red primer was mingled in with the black of the grill paint. A bit of added work with weathering powders and I was very pleased with the end result.
This two fisted spray can idea seems to work best if your primary color, in this case the black, is held in your primary hand (I am right handed). I did this work outdoors so I could circle the work but it could also be done in a vented spray booth.
Dave Nelson
I liked your idea, I first coated the bridges & viaducts 1. with rusty red primer, 2. lightly covered with charcoal gray, then lightly mist a coat of camouflage dark brown over. This worked great for what I was trying to accomplish. Just enough Rust showing and the brown & Gray made it look like it had a coat of paint applied during the years passsed.
Thank you for the great lead
Thomas
"Atlas" Valley Railroad
Keep us posted on your progress and send photos.
Thank You, I've got lots to cover and this sounds like it should give me the look i need.
I have found the best way to get what I consider a 'good' weathered with rust finish is to paint the bridge with a rust color first, then I use a sponge wedge (from the cosmetics department) and dab my finished color, usually a gray, over the rust. I also use a stiff brush and dry brush some areas in addition to the sponge painting (some areas are too small for the sponge!) All the little corners and details are left with some rust showing and the gray or whatever color appears to be wearing off. Sometimes I add a third color, slightyl darker or lighter than the main color; this gives some additional shades of wear. Give it a try on a small area. You may like this system. I did my Central Valley 150' bridge and my Walthers 130' turntable bridge this way; both look great.
I am trying to get a weathered wrought iron look to my elevated tressel and bridges.
I've tried Flat Black base coat with rusty primer misted over, didn't look right.
I've tried flat gray primer base coat with rusty primer misted over, gray wasn't a good match for wrought Iron look. Any ideas? greatly needed.