amrail Jim, I am impressed with your method of switch control. However, It looks like it only works for switches close to the wall of the layout. True? If not, could this method be applied to all switches on my 8 x 20 layout having every control "knob" located at the control panel? If so, I'm not sure what needs to be done to control the switches many feet away. Please shed some light on this if you don't mind. Thanks!! Amrail
Jim,
I am impressed with your method of switch control.
However, It looks like it only works for switches close to the wall of the layout. True?
If not, could this method be applied to all switches on my 8 x 20 layout having every control "knob" located at the control panel?
If so, I'm not sure what needs to be done to control the switches many feet away. Please shed some light on this if you don't mind.
Thanks!!
Amrail
I have an around the wall layout with no shelf more than 30" wide so I can't say how far away the turnout could be, but I don't see any limit on how far away the turnout could be. The only real variable would be if there is any stretch in the material you use to connect the dowel and point spring, and what I'm using would not stretch measurably over the distances we are talking about. I think (but I haven't tried this) that you could also change the direction of the control line multiple times using screw eyes. If you got creative this might allow you to run every turnout from a single location, but the underside of the layout would get complex! Sounds like the kind of thing I would see as a fun challenge. I'm mounting my controls close to the turnout as I walk around with the train and control the turnouts as I get close.
A couple of details-you need to mount the wire in such a way that the movement is perpendicular to the track-in other words, be careful to pull the wire at right angles to the track. Second, if your layout is built on foam, another option for the mounting block is to fasten it to the underside of the foam with latex caulk. If you decide to do this give it plenty of time to set before you try and work on it. It would be easier to run all the controls to a central location if the layout had a wooden base as there would be no limitations on where to mount screw eyes.
Jim
Visit look4trains.com
htgguy Here's the method I'm using to control turnouts-works good for me. Meets the following requirements: Affordable, reliable and functional, and indicates position of the points from a distance. http://look4trains.com/2011/03/bending-iron-at-187th-scale.html Jim
Here's the method I'm using to control turnouts-works good for me. Meets the following requirements:
Affordable, reliable and functional, and indicates position of the points from a distance.
http://look4trains.com/2011/03/bending-iron-at-187th-scale.html
I like it!
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
My Train Page My Photobucket Page My YouTube Channel
I FOUND THE ARTICLE!!!
Model Railroader August 1968 Page 56.
Check it out!! Looks to me like a great economical approach to controlling Manual Switches.
Check out Wolfgang Dudler's HO WESTPORT TERMINAL RR on-line! He made his own manual t/o actuation system. My 2 cents. TTFN. ....Old Tom aka papasmurf in NH
Woodman,
I understand what you are saying. If I had only 2-3 switches, I'd go electric remote control - all the way.
I have 36 switches on a 20 x 8 layout. A lever, string, and a few washers per switch - I can afford that!!
Thanks for throwing in your two cents worth!!
You never know if you have the right answer till you try them all!!
Amrail.
Reworked my page on turnout controls to try and explain what I am doing with my turnout controls better.
http://johnnnyreb50.angelfire.com/turnoutcontrolswithbenefits.html
Look at this thread http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/185215.aspx
Check out Humpyard controls. Don't use or need counterbalance weights and use levers resembling interlocking levers.
Dante
I am using piano wire attached to the draw-bar,then run under scenery through hard small plastic tubing, All found at a model aircraft store(my other hobby) works well if the switch is not two far away (max two foot). Good luck!
Amrail, have you given any thought to purchasing manual turnouts machines. I just installed 14 Bullfrog manual turnout machines. They were less than $10.00 each and work great. They are from Fasttracks.
Thanks for insight guys. Your suggestions are interesting but not what I'm looking for.
The set up I recall was a row of levers at the control panel similar to those of an interlocking tower.
A string or cable was attached to each lever then run to an individual switch. Each string or cable was under the table and ran through eyebots
At the other end of the switch was a string or cable that held washers for weights as a counter balance.
When a lever was moved the switch would open. Pull the lever back and the switch would close.
I know I saw this article in MR. I'm just not sure which one. I want to prevent spending the many hours it would take to find it if someone was willing to share with me where the article is located.
Thanks again for the info. It's always good to get as many points of view to help a person understand topics and functions in a complete way.
Look on Craig Bisgeier's Housatonic RR site. Until he started using Tam Valley servos, he used barrel bolts for his turnouts. http://www.housatonicrr.com/
The weight on one end, latch of some sort on the control panel idea goes back at least to the 50's and has appeared in various forms in multiple issues of MR over the years. My collection earlier than that is very spares but no doubt it appeared even earlier.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Just remembered. The story of which you speak was done using a short barrel bolt lock. A search on Amazon.com showed a link to this
Try this concept drawing below
I have no clue, but if you look on my web site you'll find turnouts with benefits. Others make them their way so look around, search the forum for other posts on manual switch controls.
I recall an MR article that gave specifics on how to control switch movements by using levers attached to string and counterbalanced by weights.
Anyone remember which MR issue this was in?
I'd like to give it a try but can't recall the exact "How To" instructions.
Thanks in advance.