Mitered Joints On Structure Walls

[CBQ_Guy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Scott Groff

Funny thing you should ask. I have exactly the same question for assembling my colletion of Magnuson urethane kits. I think I am going to try using my NWSL True Sander. I need to fabricate some kind of ramp to support the walls at exactly 45 degrees. Coincidentally, the True Sander comes with a couple of plastic angle pieces, one of which is the requisite 45 degrees. I plan to trace the outline on a piece of .60" plastic, making three copies. Then, glue a piece of sheet plastic across the top of three of the angles, one for each side and one in the middle for support. Then I'll have a support for my wall sections that holds them at exactly 45 degrees. I can use the sander block to bevel the kit wall edges. Should work for any wall section that will fit on a True Sander.

True Sander:

http://walthers.com/exec/productinfo/53-574

[Anonymous]

Funny thing you should ask. I have exactly the same question for assembling my colletion of Magnuson urethane kits. I think I am going to try using my NWSL True Sander. I need to fabricate some kind of ramp to support the walls at exactly 45 degrees. Coincidentally, the True Sander comes with a couple of plastic angle pieces, one of which is the requisite 45 degrees. I plan to trace the outline on a piece of .60" plastic, making three copies. Then, glue a piece of sheet plastic across the top of three of the angles, one for each side and one in the middle for support. Then I'll have a support for my wall sections that holds them at exactly 45 degrees. I can use the sander block to bevel the kit wall edges. Should work for any wall section that will fit on a True Sander.

[Anonymous]

The mat cutter looks interesting, but it looks like building a jig for it / the walls I'm cutting would be less than accurate given the sizes of my walls. I'm using 1/32" Midwest Plywood for the walls, and am working in Z. A butt joint would work on some of the corners, but I'll have some wall sections that are all brick and I'd prefer to get as close to a seamless look as possible... the mitered joint would achieve this. I just haven't come across anyone who has one of these sanders yet to get an opinion on them.

[ndbprr]

He's right! It's amazing the things your mind will think are right when you are tired!

[jrbarney]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ndbprr

I would use a matte cutter. It is a little tool I believe Atlas makes since it takes the regular Atlas blade with the point (#10 or 11).

John,
Errr, I may be wrong, but I think what Ndbprr is referring to is what X-Acto (not Atlas) refers to as a Board Cutter:
http://www.hunt-corp.com/searchfrme.html
X-Acto is now part of the Hunt Corp.. family just to add to the confusion.
Bob
NMRA Life 0543

[ndbprr]

I would use a matte cutter. It is a little tool I believe Atlas makes since it takes the regular Atlas blade with the point (#10 or 11). It cuts the little bevel on matte board that is roughly 1/16" in thickness or thicker. I've seen it done where the person inserts the blade then brings a ruler or staright edge of adequate length against the cutter and pull it to the end. You don't say what material is being used and I suspect wood. My preference is to just glue the corners and then use a wood L shape like trim over the corner

[Anonymous]

I'm having some structures custom laser cut and need to have the building corners mitered. Since these miter joints will have to be done by me, I'm looking at the best way to get razor sharp joints. I see both Micro Mark & Harbor Freight sell very small (4" and 5") disc sanders. This looks to be the best way to achieve my 45 degree miters. It also looks like Micro Mark's previous disc sander is a dead ringer visually for the current sander offered by Harbor Freight. Has anyone bought either of these sanders and if so, how well does it actually work?

Thanks
John