yes, Terry thanks ; Im looking to give the rc plane linkages a try next time Im out shopping (I think there the same as the bull frog and blue point uses) IM still leaning towards bullfrog for out a reach and caboose throws nere front though the servos from tam valley are exciting my interest...Jerry
I may have missed it being mentioned, but R/C airplane push rods work well. I use caboose throws in the yard and home made linkage for most everything else. The home made linkage utilize a slide switch at the points for electric control, and a double sleeved brass tube arrangement that will slip right down between the ties.
I built one with external under table springs that could be switched (pun) out to change pressure. A labor of love that was totally impractical.
thanks to all; and a few responces, .......
thanks for the links to both tam valley( very interesting products ) and the hump yard levers (nice hands on pruduct )
as for the the caboose thows Im useing ,yes they are the sprung type but I wish they had a little more spring tension more like the music wire tension on the blue piont ,bullfrog, tortice and now the tam valley , and Yes you mite say that I havent got them properly adjusted as yet since the tunouts are NOT fully set (glued or nailed or ballested) so there still a tiny bit of movment at the turnout out that the caboose spring cant over come 100% of the time ,but Im sure once the turnouts are fully set that issue will improve.
Ive also fashoned some heavy music wire linkages( Like the cables mentioned )useing the caboose throws as a drive from the front fasia to the rear turnouts with success ,but not 100% again that may be due to the turn outs not being fully set.
now to the over spring design using the paperclip ,iv seen it mentioned here but have not seen it in person or a good picture or better yet a video ,but Im very intersted in this .....
I guess what Im saying here is I just want to explore all options that are out there ,and I thank all who give input...Jerry
tomikawaTT, could you provide pictures or a schematic of the switching setup you disussed. It sounds very interesting and I am at the point of trying to determine the type of turnout controllers that I want to use. I wil have about 25 turnouts.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j372/curtwbb/
My turnouts are all thrown from the fascia line. Those that have to be thrown from distant places (like the CTC panel) have motors. All others are moved by throwing electrical switches with linkages attached. All of the linkages work on the same principle.
Working from the fascia line, in order to throw the points to the 'Reverse" (less preferred) position, whatever powers the linkage pulls a normally slack length of 10# fishing leader tight. This pulls the bottom leg of an Anderson link toward the fascia, and the top leg moves the points. When the linkage is 'Normal,' (points in the preferred direction) that length of leader has no tension. However, there is another length of leader, pulling in the opposite direction, that is always under tension thanks to a couple of stripped automotive nuts or a fishing weight. That's what holds the points against the stock rail.
The Anderson link is a Z-shaped wire, usually a re-bent paper clip, with the vertical part in a length of snugly-fitting tubing. The top leg connects to the throwbar, either between the rails or outside the rails along the headblock ties. The bottom leg is attached to the fishing leader. Manual throw turnouts are connected to the handle of either a toggle switch or a slide switch with the necessary electrical contacts to power my hot frogs, panel indicators and signals. If the run is long or involves going around obstacles the leader is routed through miniature screw eyes screwed into the underside of the plywood subgrade. At least one screw eye is needed where the weight hangs down. Total material cost, other than the electrical switch and its mounting bracket, is about $0.50 per set of points.
While I have had switch throwing devices mounted right on the headblocks I much prefer to keep the clumsy oversize mitts out of the scenery. As for hidden, almost inaccessible trackage...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - inexpensively)
When you say you are using Caboose ground throws, but they need a spring, are you using their sprung throws. They should be enough to hold your Atlas switches.
Good luck,
Richard
Choke cables used to be a good way to go. I use wire coat hangers and sliding blocks or bell-cranks made of wood lath. They aren't pretty, but they are very quiet and work well after some breaking-in.
The coat hangers run through a small hole drilled in my sort-of-fascia, and then through several small metal eyelets inserted in a line toward the block or crank device. From that device rises a lath screwed to the device securly, and I insert a small wire into the top surface. That wire runs up into the throwbar hole.
If I were to do it all over again, I'd use metal rods that are a bit less spaghetti-like and skip the eyelets. More cost, but more rigid and effectual.
Crandell
Jerry
have you seen the Hump yard controls? They even look like the old hand thrown levers out of the interlocking towers.
http://www.humpyard.com/
20 levers breaks down to $6.80 a piece. Also can be interlocked so one lever will control a cross over or other gang of turnouts.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
I use a regular slide switch in some locations. You just have to figure out how to mount it. But it also takes rods.
You might want to take a look at servo motors. Check out the Tam Valley web site.
http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
well Ive been looking @ turnout control options for my ho empire. I really like the bull frog from fast tracks for any thing that requires reaching in,and caboose hand throws for up front or on a short linkage of music wire. I'm using ATLAS #6 turn outs and they are OK on hand throws but really could use a solid spring throw like the bullfrog,blue point,tortoise type...
so here is my issue ,I like the hands on of caboose hand throws ,bullfrog & bluepoints and really not interested in motor drives but after weighing the prices bullfrogs 6$+4$ for contolrods compared tortoise motor drive on sale for 12.50 in 12 packs . I'm kinda stuck on what to do and the investment is growing bye the day.is there any options I'm missing for a linkage spring type of control thats reliable but cheap?...
I'm also considering Joe Fugates clever deadbolt design but its positive spring is only one direction .....any other home made Idea's ?.... Jerry