Dan,
I don't think it makes a difference after checking them out a little more(between those two). Some of the keys are understanding:
1. Powered or unpowered frog
2. Power routing or not as far as the points go.
3. Complete power conductivity to all rails.
This gets more complicated if you are using powered switches for points, electrical switches for power routing and/or frog and driving any lights/LEDs on a panel. I think in one the last few issues of MR there have been articles on some of this. Also check out www.nmra.org as there is a lot of information there. I would suggest joining too.
Soller,
That question cannot be answered without first knowing how much divergence you have. As I recall a snap switch with 18" radius with the included 18" R track section makes the equivalent of one complete 18"R section. So, to go parallel, would mean adding another 18"R section going the other way. But, you create a tight S turn. That's one reason to just get parallel a big frog would be desirable, like an 8.
Richard
If I use sectional track , what curve radius is needed to return the tracks to parallel?
Sorry but I am a begginer in this hobby.
Richard - I am a novice when it comes to the electrical details. If I have DCC, would I want to use the Custom Line turnouts, or the Super Track turnouts, or does it depend on the situation?
Thanks, Dan
A typical siding has two ends, both of which are the diverging routes of a turnout. The choice of turnout is up to the road planner, so that means some will opt for a true snap #4, some for an Atlas #4 which is really a #4.5, and others will want a longer and shallower turnout that will be somewhat more prototypical.
Because the diverging routes of whichever turnout you elect to use will move away from the main centerline at an angle, you must reverse that angle to bring the siding back to parallel. It would be best to use a longer turnout so that your return curve to paralle doesn't have to be so sharp, or so that your siding doesn't end up many scale yards away...eating up turf.
So, two turnouts, and two ways to return the subsequent tracks to parallel, idieally close-by. You can use sectional track curves, or just curve flex track lengths.
Crandell
Ok. If the diverging routes are supposed to not be based on a radius , what parts are needed in a siding track?
Yes, it's a difference in the geometry of the turnout. The snap-switches have a divergent path that is an 18 or 22-inch radius curve. It's not quite true that you can replace an 18-inch radius curved section with a snap-switch, though. The snap-switches have a straight portion before the points, perhaps an inch long, that will not match up with a piece of curved sectional track.
Snap switches may be purchased with either "manual" or "remote" drive units. The manual ones are simple mechanical devices that clip on to the sides of the turnout. The remote ones look the same, but they are true switch machines, with twin-coil mechanisms. Custom-line turnouts can't be purchased with the twin-coil machines as a single package. The same twin-coil machines will work, however, but you have to buy them separately. Either Customline or snap-switches may also be driven with Tortoises, or Caboose ground throws, if you prefer.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Custom Line has been around for a long time for 4s and 6s(frogs), now 8s. They have isolated frogs and are not power routing. All 3 track sections have same power. Which can cause problems, particularly if putting two diverging routes into each other. I cut them down to make them shorter up to a point for certain applications. The diverging routes are supposed to not be based on a radius, but instead per NMRA practices of divergence(like the prototypes).
I just checked the Atlas website and it appears that the Super turnouts are made to look more prototypical in terms of ties, no exposed rivets, etc. I did not see this offered in 4s and 8s either.
The snap switches can be used instead of a regular sectional 18" or 22" radius piece of track. The divergent route continues to turn beyond the switch frog completing the turn equal to the18" or 22" section. Remove a regular sectional piece of 18" or 22" radius track and substitute the snap switch which won't alter the turn. They are space savers, but not very prototypical and may cause issues with longer cars. My passenger cars don't like them.
If you download the free Atlas layout planning software from their website and play with changing out different pieces you will see how the snap switches can be substituted for curved sectional track.
I have seen the other two types of turnouts (custom line and super track), but I don't know the difference. I have also wondered as my LHS sells both and they look the same to me other than a slight difference in the configuration of the ties. MY LHS Is very knowledgable and they didn't know the difference either. The Atlas website isn't much help here either.
Atlas code 83 track has super track, custom line and snap switch turnouts.
What is the difference betwen these turnouts?