On my current layout, I have two double track truss bridges, set end to end, with Walthers bridge track on the two bridges.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/948-899
At $25.98 for a section of bridge track less than 20 inches in length, it took me 4 sections of track, costing over $100, to span the bridges. That is just too expensive.
The Walthers bridge track is Code 83 outside rail and Code 70 inner guard rail. Does the guard rail actually work, as on the prototype, or is it simply ornamental? I have never had a derailment on the bridges, so I have no idea if the guard rails serve any useful purpose.
Now, I am about to build a single track bascule bridge, and I would like to use bridge rail once again for its prototypical appearance. But, I sure don't want to spend another $50 for two sections to span the 34 inch bascule bridge.
I have a lot of Atlas Code 83 flex track on hand. Couldn't I just use this Code 83 flex track and glue down an inner guard rail using Code 83 rail that I would strip off of some spare Code 83 flex track. Or, would the Code 83 inner rail interfere with the wheel flanges?
Rich
Alton Junction
Seems to me most turnout guardrails are the same size as the rest of the rail, same with crossings. If you like the looks of a slightly smaller guardrail, maybe you could get a length of N guage track, code 70, and strip the rails from that? A lot less expensive than the Walther's product, and only slightly more work.
A recent article in MR or RMC refered to guard rails as being either guardrails or rerailers.
I am planning on using some rails from Peco C-75 flextrack for my guardrails. They will be glued to the bridge ties. The running rails are C-100.
The general purposes of the guards are to attempt to reduce damage to the bridge caused by derailed stock, and keep the cars from tumbling into the ravine below.
Have fun, George.
I am planning on using HO scale code 70 rail to make my own bridge track (with Atlas code 83 flex track). I suspect that you could use code 83 but I prefer the look of the slightly lighter inner rails.
I made my own bridge track with left over code 83 which is what my layout has. I took an old truck with atheran wheels and moved them in for the bridge track and a second set of wheels on the stock rails and bend them to make the begining and end of the guard rails and as i rolled them along the track I super glued the inner rails to the ties worked fine for me, they have been there for almost 3 years with no problems. Each axel should have four wheels on the truck . Weather them to your liking before installing them in your bridge. Jim.
Note that the bridge track apparently places ties more closely together than the basic flex track.
Dante
I have used the Walther's bridge track also, but found that Micro Engineering makes it in 36" sections for about $10.95 each (and that was at Hobbytown USA). I have a triple curved chord bridge with two of them end to end and they look just like the Walthers. As for functioning like the prototype I don't know if the HO wheels would react the same. I have also read that the guard rails can be the same as the mainline rails or a lighter weight, depending on the railroads preference or what is available.
Also, the ties are spaced closer together than regular track.
Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
richhotrain I have a lot of Atlas Code 83 flex track on hand. Couldn't I just use this Code 83 flex track and glue down an inner guard rail using Code 83 rail that I would strip off of some spare Code 83 flex track. Or, would the Code 83 inner rail interfere with the wheel flanges? Rich
No problems. You can cut the webs from between the flex track ties and move them closer together, then glue in extra rails of code 83 (or better, code 70). They are largely cosmetic. You will notice that the ties on bridge track are longer than standard ties. You may or may not be able to disguise this. I've done bridges both ways and they look fine.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
I don't know about the Walthers bridge track, but in most other cases the ties are not only closer together but they are longer (bridge width) from end to end, as well. As most bridges have allowed for a walkway so that anyone caught on the bridge with a train passing has somewhere to step out on, out of the way of the on coming power.
Johnboy out....................
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
This section of my layout uses Code 100, and I guess the powers that be decided that people who use Code 100 don't use bridge track. There is some made, but it's always out of stock. So, I made my own.
I used Atlas flex track, and removed the ties, cut the spacers, and put them back. This results in a compression of almost 2-to-1, so I had extra rail leftover for the guard rails. I used it for the bridge above, and also for this trestle:
Since I re-used the ties, they are not wider than the originals. That would have been better, particularly over the trestles, but they would not have fit in the bridge in the first picture if I'd used wider ties.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Wow, thanks everybody. Lots of good ideas here.
I will definitely make my own bridge track and report back on the results.
Rich,
On my previous layout I made my own bridge track. As the layout was code 100 (Atlas), I picked up some code 83 flex, pulled out the rails, bent the ends inward, and glued it down. I stood the test of time (13 years), and the somewhat smaller size looked good and never interferred with low hanging coupler hoses.
If your trackage is code 83, maybe using some code 55 or something in between might be just the ticket. In any case, it would probably cost about $5, a lot cheaper than the ready made. And of course there is that intangible "I built it myself" thing that goes along with it!
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
OK, folks, I 'm having a bit of a problem attaching Walthers Bridge Track to their Single Track Warren Truss Bridge. I used Testors Liquid Plastic Cement and it seems like it was holding well, but then after some handling it popped loose. Any suggestions for a more durable bond? CA? Epoxy?
Contact cement. The bond won't break as the bridge flexes.
Champlain DivisionOK, folks, I 'm having a bit of a problem attaching Walthers Bridge Track to their Single Track Warren Truss Bridge. I used Testors Liquid Plastic Cement and it seems like it was holding well, but then after some handling it popped loose. Any suggestions for a more durable bond? CA? Epoxy?
The slippery engineering plastic ties won't react with typical solvent cements to form a bond. You'll need something intended for flexible bonds between dissimilar materials. Certain contact cements will work, as already mentioned. Flexible CA-type glues like PolyZap or Microbond work great too.
Rob Spangler
Roger, Rob,
Thanks for those suggestions. I'll give them a try.
Rick Shivik
HO D&H Champlain Division
Conyers, GA
One other advantage of using a lower profile guard rail is when you clean the track it doesn't take the rust weathering off the top of the guard rail. I use code 60 guard rails with code 83 running rails giving a 0.023" clearance.
Chris Waring.
skagitrailbird Contact cement. The bond won't break as the bridge flexes.
Yes the contact cement bonds well and remains flexible, you can also use Pliobond, I tend to like the clear/ slight amber color and far less of that "stringy" mess if you have to reposition.
And don't overlook the MicroEngineering Bridge flex as mentioned. great product, 3ft section comes w/ guard rails and guard timbers. I just CA the guard rails, less mess and no stress to break bond.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org