Thanks for your input, it worked just as you described and inside of ten minutes I reversed two throw bars on a pair of Atlas #4 custom line turnouts.
Why waste the effort to try and glue them back on if you break the tabs. Atlas sells them for 6/$.50. Here are the part numbers:
I spoke with Don Atlas(dfidecaro@atlasrr.com) - No problem getting them ordered. Keep a pack around just for times like this.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Thanks, very helpful answer. Further question: If I remove the throwbar and find that I cannot get it to go back on when I turn it around, is it possible to glue it back on or glue on a substitute throwbar?
wdcrvr
I asked the same question a couple of months ago and found it was easy - caveat below- to change the Atlas throw bar from one side to another. As Jim B, describes, you look at the bottom of the turnout and, using a hobby knife or other slim tool, pry the throwbar out of the sliding mechanism, flip it over and pop it back in with the throwbar sticking out the other side (the diverging route side).
Caveat to above - about 1/3 of the 30 or so Atlas turnouts I have were too old to do this, as the throwbar was riveted to the metal that spanned between the rails. I don't now how old these turnouts are, as I got most of them via e-Bay or train shows. All the Mark 4 turnouts should have the reversing feature, but if you have some old ones you may find the throwbars are riveted in. Check your inventory first, and set aside any of the old ones to use with the throwbar in the origional orientation.
I modified my throwbars to work with Caboose Industries manual ground throws. I am not at home, so I can only give you approximate dimensions, you need to do some measuring yourself. As I recall I cut the throwbars with a snap saw so that they extended about 1/4 inch beyond the ties, when the throwbar was in it's most retracted position (meaning for the straight through route, with the throwbar in it's original orientation). I then drilled a hole for the pin on a Caboose throw - I think it was about .0625" diameter. This should work with your throwbar on either side of the turnout. Again - check your dimensions before you cut or drill, as I am working from memory.
By cutting the throwbar you can pull your ground throw up close to the ties for better looks and function, but you will no longer be able to use the Atlas above table switch machines. If, however, you decide to go with an under table machine later, you can still use the turnout, as the undertable machines generally actuate the throwbar from between the rails.
Hope this helps.
Bill
As others have said, the throwbar can be reversed so that the extended part of the throwbar is on the other side of the turnout.
I, too, use Atlas Custom Line #6 turnouts.
Some years ago, when I first encountered this problem, the guy at the LHS showed me how to do it. He took the dull side of an Exacto knife blade and gently lifted the two plastic tabs that hold down the points rails. He did it one at a time and made sure to keep the first point rail above the plastic tab as he lifted the second plastic tab because otherwise the point rails tend to slip back into place requiring the process to be completed again......and again, so take your time.
I use a tiny screw driver to do it because an Exacto knife blade, if you are careless, may cut and weaken the plastic tab which is small and somewhat delicate.
Incidentally, Atlas sells replacement throwbars in case you break one (don't ask me how or why I know this). Be patient and take your time.
If you cut off the extension of the throwbar, it is no big deal if you use something like a Tortoise to power the turnout from under the layout. However, I never cut off the extensions because every once in a while, in the past, I have decided to relocate a turnout and use a manual ground throw (i.e. Caboose Industries). If you cut off the extension, you lose the ability to mount a manual ground throw on the turnout throwbar.
Rich
Alton Junction
You are correct. In fact, I cut of the throwbar flush with the edge of the ties. I drill a 3/8" hole directly under the throwbar on the track centerline(I use Tortoise motors under the switch). Most of my turnouts have Caboose Industries switch stands, linked with a piece of music wire. I cut a 'slot' in the roadbed under the throwbar so that it does not bind on ballast.
I will be throwing this turnout manually in the beginning. If I decide to add a machine to it, it would be the type that would be under the table, not the atlas switch machines. Does this make sense? I don't think I will need that big honking throwbar out there if I never will use an atlas switch machine. Right??
As Jim stated, the throwbars can be reversed, but you need to figure out a way to hold the switch machine (table top type). Atlas does show examples of the need to reverse the machine when building certain types of yard ladders in the old track book I have. My suggestion for securing the machine would be a very thin layer of latex caulk on the bottom, when you have determined exactly where you want it (and it will work). It doesn't take much caulk and a putty knife inserted under the machine should be able to pry it loose if you ever need to remove it.
Good luck,
The points pop out of the throwbar - use an Exacto knife to lift one side to get it started. They will fit either way. If you are using the Atlas side mounted switch machines, you will need to figure out a way to secure them on the other side.
If you want to use the regualr Atlas side mount switch motors, no, you can;t really flip sides. If you use the under table or something else like a Tortoise, then the larger part of the throwbar used to connect the regular Atlas machine is not needed and can be snipped off - sprue cutters or track cutters make quick work of it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Newbie here. I am laying flextrack and using atlas #6 turnouts. As you come into the point of the turnout, the "throwbar" (correct term?) sticks out on the right hand side. I would like to know if I can change that to stick out on the left hand side and if so, what is the best way to do it. Keep in mind that I have a lot of patience but little to no experience. Also I noted that the throwbar has two holes in it for connecting a rod to a switch machine (I suppose). So could I just cut off part of the throwbar to the point that there is only one of the holes left and still have it work properly if I put a machine on it later?
This question comes up because the configuration of my layout will make it difficult to fit in some of my turnouts due to location of other tracks and turnouts unless I can shorten or move the throwbar.
This forum is a real lifesaver for me. Thanks for any and all input.