Wildcat, welcome to the forum and welcome back to Winnipeg. Hope you haven't forgotten what a Winnipeg winter is like.
I use the buckets of premixed joint compound quite a bit--scenery, roads, over styrofoam, over plaster cloth. One nice thing about using it for roads is that after it sets, I can wipe it gently with a damp sponge and the surface will soften and smooth out nicely. Just don't put it on in thick layers. They'll take forever to set and will crack. 1/8" is about optimum. Keep the lid tightly closed between uses or it will start to dry out. If you're not going to use it for a long time, pour some water on top of the compound. Dump the water off when you use it the next time.
As for hobby shops, I do most of my shopping at Gooch's. They recently moved from Sherbrook St. to 1046 Portage Ave. at Garfield. Some others you might want to try are Elmwood Hobbies, 260 Henderson at Chalmers, Ware House Hobbies, 265 Rouge Rd. in St. James, and Spare Time Hobbies, #7-1514 Regent Ave. West across from Kildonan Place. It's tucked in the back of a little strip mall, easy to miss.
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
My first try I used foam and drywall compound. It looked OK, but as Art Hill stated it looked like I frosted a cake. Then I came across the Video Series that Bert posted for you. Next batch came out much better, looks a lot more like rock.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
I have used joint compound either by itself or over top of foam scraps to make small rises and hills. Also I did a section of road with it and it worked out well . It will crack but you can either fill them in and or use a wet foam brush to smooth out the smaller ones. The joint compound is also sandable when dry.
Depending on where the cracks are in a road for example they can be a plus.
Happy Railroading
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
In most cases I prefer exactly what you've done, some sort of foam base with a follow up layer of joint compound applied by hand and smoothed over with a brush. I've found it's easier to control the shape of the landforms with foam and it's easier to 'plant' trees and bushes in foam than the plaster lattice method. (For very pronounced mountains, the lattice method does become more practical though)
Lance
Visit Miami's Downtown Spur at www.lancemindheim.com
selector Wildcat, I am unsure to whom you have addressed your last post. You can hit reply and then click on the glue "Quote", and the person's text will show. You can also edit that text to reduce it to a single point if you wish. But, by quoting, you indicate to whom you wish to respond. Or, just use that person's user name to identify him/her. Crandell
Wildcat, I am unsure to whom you have addressed your last post. You can hit reply and then click on the glue "Quote", and the person's text will show. You can also edit that text to reduce it to a single point if you wish. But, by quoting, you indicate to whom you wish to respond. Or, just use that person's user name to identify him/her.
Crandell
Sorry my bad. I got the answer to my question anyway.
“A train has the two great attributes of life…motion and purpose.” Atlas Shrugged, Ayn Rand
Thanks for the help. Your work looks beautiful.
We've just moved back to Winnipeg after a looooong absence. What hobby shop do you deal with?
I had layered extruded Dow Corning foam on my first layout. I had fun. It takes time to carve the stuff, but if done patiently and meticulously, it looks as good as hydrocal or plaster rocks. The spackle or drywall mud should only be used for seam smoothing/filling. Otherwise, I would ask why use all that expensive foam in the first place? Why not just make a cardboard lattice using hot glue? It's a lot cheaper, just as effective. You cover the lattice with paper towels dipped in plaster of Paris. Or, as I did with my current layout, use aluminum window screen. It can be cut easily with snips, hot glued or stapled into place, and then covered with your favourite covering, paper and plaster, ground goop....
Wildcat, from my home town.
Here is a link to a youtube series on making foam mountains.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1D4KBB_GC4
Further along in the series he does just what you are talking about. He dabbs filler compound all over. (I used DAP) I followed his instruction and ended up with this. I am very happy with the result.
Good luck and send pics. We love Pics.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Although I carve the foam directly into rocks and cliffs and finish with textured paint and washes, skipping 90% of the plaster, which to me is the whole point of using foam inthe first place, most people seem to use Hydrocal or Plaster Of Paris for making rocks etc. Gyproc is fine for general coverage, keeping each coat to 1/8", any thicker and the gyproc will crack. For rock faces you would have to build it up in thin layers. Hydrocal and POP can be put on pretty thick. You can do the general coverge with the Gyproc and add Hydrocal/POP rock casting to it.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
I’ve got to the point where I can start finishing my Styrofoam scenery with some kind of plaster compound. I know there are commercial products for the hobbyist but it would be easier for me to acquire and use a gyproc finishing compound. Does this work OK? I see some of the folks have used it for roads but how about rocks and hills.