Good morning
Here is the response I recieved from Walthers cutomer service about the indexing with the new DCC TT.
"As I understand it, you will be able to select the track you want on the DCCversion of the turntable, this is the same as our DCC transfer table. Theturntable will also include a control box for manual operation."
That sounds good ,Philip
selector The older indexed built-up TT is as described just above...a bit of pain, and not realistic in that respect, but at least it is reliable and accurate....a huge leap from the last debacle. The DCC version should be programmable so that its various "stations" or indices are essentially given an address or position #. The decoder should then rotate the bridge to the selected radial. Crandell
The older indexed built-up TT is as described just above...a bit of pain, and not realistic in that respect, but at least it is reliable and accurate....a huge leap from the last debacle.
The DCC version should be programmable so that its various "stations" or indices are essentially given an address or position #. The decoder should then rotate the bridge to the selected radial.
Crandell
Crandell,
If that is true, that is very cool and a big improvement over the older method that I described.
Rich
Alton Junction
chugg OK ,thanks. Now I get it. I sent an E mail off to walthers to ask them about the DCC version ,so we will see what they say. I wonder if with the DCC version if you can leave all the tracks unprogramed and then quickly program one track when you want to go to that track. Rich,you mentioned before that over time the programed stop would slip slightly out of alignment. How much time are you talking about here?
OK ,thanks. Now I get it.
I sent an E mail off to walthers to ask them about the DCC version ,so we will see what they say.
I wonder if with the DCC version if you can leave all the tracks unprogramed and then quickly program one track when you want to go to that track. Rich,you mentioned before that over time the programed stop would slip slightly out of alignment. How much time are you talking about here?
When I say "over time", I mean after 4 or 5 sessions. The slippage wasn't much but it was enough to derail finicky engines, particularly steam engines.
Which reminds me of something else that I forgot about. The way that the indexing feature works, once you align the turntable track with the rails leading into a stall and then program that stop, thereafter, when the turntable reaches that stall, the turntable track goes slightly past the rails leading into a stall then reverses itself and aligns with the rails leading into a stall. That is the way that the indexing feature is designed to work, but I believe that it is the cause of the eventual slippage out of alignment. I got tired of re-programming the stops that slipped.
I'm currently building the CMR 90' TT. It's an acrylic model that early days (I'm installing the pit rail after having painted and weathered the pit) appears to be very well made. The instruction sheet is excellent, and after-sale service by Jeff at CMR is outstanding. He's very patient and helpful. I recommend it, and CMR, highly.
Rick Krall
chugg So what you're saying is;If my locomotive is in slot 1 of a12 stall roundhouse and I select spur track 1 or out bound track 1 ,then this thing is going to stop 12 different times before it reachs the track I want it to go to? Does it just go to the adjacent track and stop and wait for me to start it again or does it stop for 2 seconds at each track untill it finally reaches its destination? I'm confused.
So what you're saying is;If my locomotive is in slot 1 of a12 stall roundhouse and I select spur track 1 or out bound track 1 ,then this thing is going to stop 12 different times before it reachs the track I want it to go to? Does it just go to the adjacent track and stop and wait for me to start it again or does it stop for 2 seconds at each track untill it finally reaches its destination? I'm confused.
Again, I can only speak to the non-DCC version.
First of all, at least on the non-DCC version, you cannot directly select the stall at the outset.
Here is the way it works. Let's say that you have a 12-stall roundhouse, stall #1 on the left and stall #12 on the right as you face the roundhouse.
Now, an engine enters the TT on the left side of the TT. You want the turntable to rotate clockwise to stall #12. You press the button for clockwise movement. As the TT reaches stall #1, it will stop if stall #1 was pre-prgrammed. It will sit there until you press the button once again to rotate the TT clockwise. As the TT reaches stall #2, it will stop if stall #2 was pre-programmed. If stall #2 was not pre-programmed, the TT will not stop but will continue on to stall #3, then stall #4, etc., stopping at each pre-programmed stall, then waiting for you to hit the button for clockwise movement once again.
So, you have to wait through a bunch of stops if all 12 stalls are pre-programmed to stop.
Incidentally, at any time, you can reverse the movement of the TT by pressing the other movement button. Let's say that you have already rotated the TT clockwise to stall #6 but want to go back to stall #5. Simply press the button for counterclockwise movement and the TT will return to stall #5. Of course, if you want to reverse direction and go to a stall further down the line, you have to endure stops at every pre-programmed stall along the way.
In my example, where an engine enters the turntable on the left side, if you want to go directly to stall #12, you could press the button that rotates the TT counterclockwise and it will rotate to stall #12 first. Of course in that situation, the engine will be parked in stall #12 in the opposite direction than if you had reached stall #12 with clockwise movement of the TT. This can be a problem if you have a bunch of steamers that you want parked engine first with the back of the tender showing.
For me, I deleted all of the pre-programmed stops. Now, I begin movement of the TT and hold down the button until I reach the desired stall, then release the button. I have gotten good enough that I can often release the button just in time for perfect alignment of the TT rails with the roundhouse rails.
chugg Does anyone know if the dcc version of the 130' TT just coming out has been improved in regard to the indexing? If the table stops at every index point I think I would disconnect it too. Is the indexing controlled by optical sensors and if so wouldnt that be fairly reliable? I'm just trying to decide if I should spring for the new technology or hang on to my twenty year old homemade turntable. Thanks ,Philip
Does anyone know if the dcc version of the 130' TT just coming out has been improved in regard to the indexing? If the table stops at every index point I think I would disconnect it too. Is the indexing controlled by optical sensors and if so wouldnt that be fairly reliable? I'm just trying to decide if I should spring for the new technology or hang on to my twenty year old homemade turntable.
Thanks ,Philip
Philip,
I can only speak to the non-DCC 130' TT that I have, but I would bet that the indexing feature on the DCC version operates the same way.
On the non-DCC version, the TT can be programmed to stop at every stall or to stop only at the stalls that you select. Once programmed, the TT will stop only at the pre-programmed stalls. You can add or delete stops by additional programming. It is pretty easy to program these stops or to delete them.
For me, the objection to programming stops was the amount of time involved to reach the desired stall, so I deleted all the stops and now control the TT manually. I press the button to start it turning in the direction that I desire (there are two buttons, one for each direction), then hold the button down until it reaches the desired stall. Then I switch between the two buttons, back and forth, until I align the rails. Usually, one or two quick presses of the button perfectly aligns the rails.
To the best of my knowledge from speaking with the folks at Walthers customer service the T/T is identical in every respect even indexing it's just that it can be controlled via DCC hand throttle or by the sue of the same box that the standard model comes with. In the case of the original model lets say you only have 4 track you wish to access you program it as such so it doesn't stop at every possible indexing point only the one's you program it to stop at. It actually sounds a lot harder to do then it really is.
Not blowing my own air-horn but I have probably built them all over the years. not having the space for a layout for quite some time I was left to building modules and my favorite of course would be the round house and engine facility. Diamond Scale T/T's were ok back when you had little or nothing to choose from. Their indexing system was a complete nightmare and never even came close to being reliable.I had much better results building scratch built turn tables and home made indexing systems. aka a momentary push button.
As far as kit turntables go there is only one viable option the CMR turntables are outstanding pieces of modeling.That is if your a kit builder but if you want the most bang for your buck you can't beat the Walthers units either 90' or 130' Even if you get a deal on an older non dcc controlled version you can still use it on a dcc layout and operate it via the control box or retrofit it with a decoder yourself. There are numerous how to articles on the subject. It's not hard to do at all. Trust me if I could do it it isn't rocket science. Go for the Walthers and the first time you turn one of those big articulated's you'll be grinning from ear to ear.
Cisco,
I replied earlier about the Walther's 130' RTR that I have. I also have the bridge from a Diamond Scale TT, also about 130' , and it is definately a craftsmen type of kit. I don't have the pit as I planned to build one and use the Dalee indexing kit, also a lot of tedius and accurate assembly. I understand how it all works but at my age (69+) I didn't want to fool with such a project. The Walther's unit is really nice and can be super detailed if you wanted to. I agree with what you posted and pasted, leave it to the master craftsman who has the time and patience.
Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Based on what I read in this forum months ago, I have ordered the Walthers DCC 130' turntable. Unless you find one in a shop you will have to wait until mid-Nov. for delivery. I ordered mine in August from Walthers. I understand it will be here before Christmas.
Some forum members writing about it might not be aware that the original product has been replaced with the newer model 933-2850. I don't know what the upgrades are.
However, based on what I read at the Diamond Scale website the delay in getting a functioning good-looking turntable on the layout could be much longer. I have never ordered from Diamond Scale before, but I think thefollowing disclaimer from their home page could be translated as: "our kits are fussy, take a long time to build, and could look like crap when you are done....and it will be the builder's fault". I also think their turntables must be the most complex of their kits to tackle, considering the precision of the movement you want afterward.
For me, this sort of product is not what I want to get my layout up and rolling. However, if I want the craftsman approach and a sense of accomplishment, I would go with them....but enter the project realistically.
From the Diamond Scale website [ And I commend them for being so forthright ]
We must say that these are not beginner's kits. The level of a craftsman-style kit is very different from the snap-together type plastic model. Craftsman kits involve the use of tools to a greater degree, and generally have small parts and materials that must be assembled. Accuracy in making measurements is also very important.
How difficult? For example, several of our kits require the bending and forming of 0.020 inch diameter brass wire into handrails or other small items. We use basswood parts as small as 3/64 or 1/16 inch angles, and scale 2 x 4's (which in HO are 0.024 x 0.048 inches). Some of our metal castings are as small as 1/16 inch. A turntable can take several hours to complete. We don't mean to discourage you from buying our kits but we don't want you to be disappointed either.
Many modelers enjoy the construction process as much as using the finished model. Diamond Scale kits will appeal to the experienced model builder, and will afford several hours of enjoyment as the different parts and materials are assembled, painted, and become a completed model. Although we supply detailed instructions, your experience and ideas can be utilized to individualize each model.
With care and patience each kit can be assembled into a high quality detailed structure on your layout. Grouped together or singly they can provide a unique setting to display your steam or diesel locomotives.
Just my
As already noted, there was a recent thread on the Walthers 130' turntable that the OP should read because it provides a lot of good information and advice on both the older non-DCC turntable and the newer DCC turntable.
In my case, I have the older non-DCC turntable. I absolutely love the thing, and it is a centerpiece of my entire layout.
I should note that when I originally set it up, I took full advantage of the indexing function. However, I found it cumbersome and slow. Once indexed, the turntable stopped at every stall, and it took me forever to get to the desired stall. Also, over time, the indexed stops seemed to slip out of alignment, just enough to cause derailments.
So, eventually, I disabled the indexing function and now I operate the turntable manually. I love that, the desired stall is reached a lot more quickly, and I can set the alignment of the rails perfectly.
Let me be clear about one thing. When I say that I operate the turntable manually, I simply disabled the indexed function, but I still use the control board to set the turntable in motion, then I hold the control button down until the turntable track reaches the desired stall.
I have the Walther's 130' automated turntable and love it. It is very easy to program and so far hasn't failed to stop where it was set to. I have a Big Booy, challenger and Y6B. Mine is not DCC but that is not a big deal from what I have read. I can still operate DCC on the TT, just can't select stopping positions with a DCC controller, but I don't see any need for it anyway.
bob
You could do a "search our community" for "turn tables" or "Walthers 130 foot turn table" or somehting like that and that should turn up several threads where owners report on the Walthers130' TT.
From what I have read over the past year anyway, the DCC "ready to run" Walthers 130' version is a favorite amongst it's users, who seem very happy with it.
If you can review the threads it is mentioned in, you could get an idea of what I have read about the Walthers. THe Diamond is rarely mentioned, so it doesn't apparently have as many supporters.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
I will be adding a turntable and roundhouse to my new layout in the near future. Since I model N&W and love the Class A 2-6-6-4 and Y6b's 2-8-8-2, I will need the 130 foot turntable. I have looked at several different brands including Walthers and Diamond Scale. I am looking for digital control so that track allinement will be easier with respect to the turntable itself and the pit. I love the looks of the Diamond Scale turntable but the Walthers 130 foot turntable seems much easier to work with. Any suggestions?
Craig North Carolina