Hi
I am using the foam camper tape and then cork roadbed on my HO layout. I have just started laying the tape. The widest tape I can find is only 1 1/2 inches wide. This means that the cork roadbed is wider than the foam tape so I am cutting half wide strips to lay down next to a full strip to get it wide enough to completely support the cork. Does anyone know where I can get foam tape that is wider than 1 1/2 inches?
Jim
A couple of things: Is it really necessary to place the product under cork? I would just use the topper tape....or the cork, but not both. You end up with too high a profile. Or, so I predict.
Secondly, could you get away with having half the strip (slice it down the middle, as in ripping...) out to each edge of the cork roadbed? You'll have a longitudinal void in the middle, but it will be narrower than the rails above it, so the rails will be well supported. It is only at turnouts and other appliances that you will need to build up a more complete support base, but we do that for turnouts anyway.
-Crandell
Crandell actually this same method is described in Realistic Reliable Track and one of the best for sound deadening.I personally don't like nor use cork roadbed any longer but the author did some pretty extensive testing and found it actually to be in the top three along with Homabed over camper tape and Flexibed over camper tape. To the O/P to maximize your sound deadening use the correct adhesive caulk DAP 3.0 is my choice if you use track nails or spikes the will defeat the purpose. You can find wide camper tape in a RV supply stores. I too have tried finding in in auto parts stores and home centers as it's the same stuff used for insulation You could simply use a second piece making it extra wide or split it down the middle as you have been doing.
Just my observation indicates that the big culprit re: "objectionable noise" on a model railroad comes from the use of a hardening glue solution for the ballast. Any of several choices for roadbed /caulking cut down the actual sound transmission to the basic framework, then we go and add cement? Where is the logic in that, Captain? John
I had not seen the article you mention, Allegheny, but thanks for pointing it out. I guess my chief objection would be the extra height, but I have always preached that dual densities between the ties and the sub-roadbed should make things nice and quiet. In my case, the dual density was afforded by the use of caulk as a fixative.
And I agree with John, hardening ballast can't be helpful. Nor the use of track nails. Caulk and slightly diluted matte medium is the way I intend to go on my next layout.
I am building my present layout using the camper foam tape under the cork roadbed on my mainline. I got several rolls of the camper tape off eBay (2 inches wide, same as the cork) and have used it on my mainline. The extra height works to my advantage since my sidings don't need the foam tape and therefore sit lower than the mainline on just a cork roadbed, just like the prototype.
The sound deadening is very apparent to me and I think it was worth the extra expense and time to install it. Check my site on how I did it. You are definitely on the right track in my opinion.
Jerry
Guys I am in total agreement when it comes to using glues that harden such as white glue for ballasting, so as of now I only use mat medium form scenic express for ballasting, how ever if you go along with the authors theory even if you use a glue that will harden you will get some sound transfer as you now have a completely hard surface but it isn't transmitted to the plywood or bench work because of the foam. So to get the complete advantage out of the system you use latex caulk to adhere the camper tape and then latex to adhere the roadbed and then latex to adhere the track to the roadbed. Being as the mat medium does not seem to dry as hard as glue the effect is some what carried to the last step.Now if someone could figure out some sort of liquid silicone that has the same consistency of wet glue we would have a pretty fool proof system.
Anyone know how long camper tape actually lasts as a sound deadener? Most foams dry and get brittle, crumble and die. How will this layer be in 30 years, and will its decline compromise scenes that have had much added along the line.? Okay, 30 years might be a bit much. I have a 30 year roof warranty and I'd love my railroad to last as well without rlaying track at 95. ;-) So...20 years? How long can it be relied upon?
You are missing the point in sound deading. The sound comes from out support area that acts like a drum. You need to sound deading from underneath.
Yes and no. If the sound never reaches the drum-like surface, it won;t be there to be amplified. Each junction between materials with different densities attenuates the sound to some degree, which is why two roadbed layers of a lightweight material, or two layers of a heavy material, such as using two layers of foam roadbed or two layers of cork, don't really do anything, but mix a layer of cork and foam, or homasote and cork, and you get a much greater reduction in transmitted sound.
There was no increase of sound when going from the part of my layout that was not ballasted to running over the strip that had ballast applied, with white glue. White glue doesn;t dry completely solid - peel those 'hard' flakes off the outside of the nozzle and where it's anything but paper thin, squeeze it with your fingernail. It's not a solid, like say an epoxy adhesive or CA. Maybe matte medium is even softer, but PVA white glue by the gallon is way cheaper. It may also get slightly more gooey when diluted with alcohol - I never use water, it doesn't flow well, even when trying the drop or two of dish soap trick. Alcohol - it seeps right in to the ballast and thoroughly soaks it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
You are tapping on the drum by running on it, sure if you put a sock on the sticks of a real drum, it will lessen the impack but stuff the drum and it affects it a lot more. Matt medium can be cheap, I just did a big yard and it cost around $12 and that is with two applications (I personally like to do that).