Hi, I am building a 5' x 9' HO layout that is made up of two parallel 2.5' x 9' modules. The track plan is essentially an oval with one end double tracked. So the track crosses the "gap" between the modules at three points, two on one end and once on the other. The modules have dowels to line them up, and then are clamped together. What is the best way to connect the track between the modules? They will be taken apart from time to time, so it can't be permanent. I have seen people just end the track right at the edge and then use rail joiners, or have them stop a little short and use a short piece of track to connect them. Not sure which is best, or if there are any other better ways to do it. Oh, HO, Micro Engineering flextrack at the joints.
Thanks in advance!
Welcome to the forums.
Any modular layouts I have seen at shows have had a short section of track bridging the space. I think the main reason for this is that it keeps the end of the track away from the edge were it could get snagged on something when being moved. One package of 3" or 6" sectional pieces would do you just fine. If you move it much. I would also have a package of rail joiners handy, as they may get loose with the moving.
Just my observations.
Good luck,
The NMRA recommended practice for HO scale portable modular layouts is to leave space for a piece of Atlas snap track to connect the modules. This means 4.5 inches on each side of the gap, since Atlas snap track is 9 inches long.
But if you're doing it for only your own use and not as a club display layout, how you connect the track is entirely up to you.
I guess the smaller 3" sections may work. All the breaks are on curves, each of a different radii, so long straight sections won't work, but maybe I can slip a short 3" straight section in there, and fudge the curves a bit on either side.
Greg.
The module club I am in has a standard of 3 inches from the edge. A six inch piece of track is then fitted in when set up. We used to do 8 to 10 shows a season. The set back is to prevent damage to the track and also to aid in any miss measurement. To tell the truth some guys can not read the tape when laying track. I sometimes have to set up next to a module that has one track nearly 1/2 inch off on one end.
Pete
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If the modules only ever go together in the same way you can just lay the track over the join and cut the rail later. Our transportable layout uses this method wothout problem. At each edge the rail is soldered to pc board which is then screwed to the layout top to ensure that rail remains aligned. Snagging has not been an issue.
Greg R Landry What is the best way to connect the track between the modules? I have seen people just end the track right at the edge and then use rail joiners, or have them stop a little short and use a short piece of track to connect them. Not sure which is best, or if there are any other better ways to do it.
With three crossings and the jumper track scenario that means you will have to line up six rail joiners simultaneously while pushing the modules together.
If there is a really nice long straight section where the joins are, and if you don't mind non-ballasted track for that distance use a piece of flex track. Leave at least a 2 foot space for the jumper track. Join and clamp the modules together and then use the flexibility of the flex track to fit it into the gap.
The only other method I know of was a special track that had one rail that slid out of another. One would put the modules together slide the rails out of the one side to connect to the other and it was done. This track was described in MR in the early 1970s in an article titled "Banishing the Drawbridge Bump".
Texas Zepher With three crossings and the jumper track scenario that means you will have to line up six rail joiners simultaneously while pushing the modules together.
If you leave a couple ties off one side of the short piece of track then put the joiner on and slide it all the way to the ties. Place the other end on and slide the joiners onto the other track. As for not having ballast? My joiner tracks have ballast. I put a piece of masking tape on the bottom and ballast and glue as the other track. Instant sceniced joiner tracks. Shaved down ties finish the section where the ties were taken out for the joiners
Some of my modules are older than seven years and have been through a lot of weather and changing temps. I once left them in the back of the truck (with a top) for a couple weeks because I didn't want to carry them through the snow again. Most of the time they live upstairs in a spare room (because the kids finally moved out) that is heated and dry. Loaded into the truck the night before a show with any type of weather condition. For some odd reason the weather always turns bad when I have to carry four modules through a busy parking lot with a lot of other people trying to get ready for a show.
With our FREMO modules track ends at the module border at the left side in the pic..
And this is the same for segment borders at the right side.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
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Greg R Landry I guess the smaller 3" sections may work. All the breaks are on curves, each of a different radii, so long straight sections won't work, but maybe I can slip a short 3" straight section in there, and fudge the curves a bit on either side.
Greg, I have a removable staging section. It's 12' long by 1' wide. It has a framework attached to the bottom, so it will lift off. The connecting sections of track are on curves, as well. I used a couple of pieces of flextrack to connect to the layout. I laid them in place, using rail joiners (there are couple of ties removed, so I can slide the joiners), then I put a drop of CA along the length on the outside of the rails. That way, it holds their shapes.
Marlon
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Thanks for the great advice. One question about the soldering to circuit board idea - where do you get circuit board? PC repair shop? Also, what would be the best way to adhere that to foam, my tabletop material?
Second, similar to the tape under the track for ballasting, I wonder if very thin styrene could be used in the same manner,both to add ballast and to keep the track the right shape?
Lastly, I just remembered reading an article in MR at some point where they soldered small wires to the inside of the rails at a join for alignment. Anyone try this one?
Thanks again.
you can buy them at Fast Tracks, ready PC board ties. I've got PC board at electronic shops.
I like the way these guys do it:
http://s-ss3.home.mindspring.com/id2.html
Dave
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
Much more complicated than necessary. I use a piece of flex to bridge the setback from the ends. The flex will hold the curves even if the setbacks are not larger than a couple of inches. I have seen people use insulated joiners on both sides and feeders to the rail but I don't (they do this because it is easier to join and they are assured the track will be live). Then for power I use Posi-connects to join the buss wires.
to the forums. If you want to see what appears to be a very solid way of securing your track at module joints, do a search in the "Search our Community" box for "Jon Grant and Sweethome Alabama". He has a whole thread documented with pictures showing how he built his modular layout. Near the bottom of Page 2 and continuing onto the top section of Page 3 are a number of very clear photo's showing how he did it, even with the track at an angle.
Good luck.
Blue Flamer.
what do you cut the rails with? rail nippers cut out a too big a chunk
I have two removable yard throats, each with a dozen (or more) rails crossing the joints. Most are on curves.
I laid track up to the brink (Atlas flex) and then added a rail joiner on the part that approaches from above (one throat drops - those joiners are on the 'fixed ground' rails) with enough clearance to slide back completely clear of the joint line. In addition to the latex caulk, the rail ends are soldered to brass flathead screws directly under the rails.
As a 'belt and suspenders' fix, you can add guard rails at the joint on a piece that can be added after the connection is made. If the track is visible, the cliche' road or path crossing can be used to justify the presence of the guard rails.
Another piece of insurance, which I use on ALL rail ends, is to break the hard corner on the gauge side of the railhead. One swipe with my rail file leaves a shallow-angle facet - and eliminates the 'step' that a wheel flange might catch to climb over the rail.
I've had to lift the first yard throat several times. Each time it went back into place without any problems - once I remembered to slide the rail joiners into place. (Guess what I forgot to do last time...)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
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I am building a 6' x 10' in 4-3' x 5' modules. All my joints are run to the edge of the module with not bridge track and I just got done moving the modules cross country from California to Georgia and they came out the other side no problems.
Chris
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