Thanks to all who responded to my question. The infomation was very helpful. It is going to make my railroad go together a lot easier not have to learn the hard way.
Go with Tortoise and never look back. I use .039 piano wire for 2-1/2" depth without any problems.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
I would agree on mounting the switch machine to a piece of plywood and cutting out the foam so the board is flush with the top of the foam. I made a video of this and it linked below.
Also look into using servo motors to throw your switches, I used them on about half of my switches, the other half is tortoise. They work great even with my solid point Fast track switches. I get them from Tam Valley Depot, http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/.
Chris
Warner Robins, GA
Check out my railroad at: Buffalo and Southwestern
Photos at:Flicker account
YouTube:StellarMRR YouTube account
I've got a mixture of Atlas, Peco and Tortoise machines on my layout. They all work well and are reliable, when installed properly. I do not like the appearance of the Atlas code 100 machines mounted trackside, as designed, so I've taken pains to cover them over with scenery or relocate them inside structures. Their code 83 machines are much smaller, and could pass for prototype machines with a bit of imagination.
When Atlas came out with their under-table machines, people asked if the plastic pins could be extended. The consensus was that they really couldn't. The Atlas under-table machines are designed with a 1-inch pin, as if everyone uses 3/4-inch plywood and 1/4-inch roadbed. Atlas machines must be mounted horizontally, and there's just going to be too much flex if you try to extend them by 3 inches. Atlas turnouts depend on the switch machine to hold the points against the stock rails, so it's a place where you don't want weakness.
The Atlas #6 customline turnouts have another issue you might want to consider. They have a metal frog, but it is unpowered. They make provision for powering it, providing a lug for wiring, buy you need to provide the circuitry yourself. This is generally a relay. Since customline turnouts don't come with their own machines, you're now looking at buying both a switch machine and a relay. Once you're in that price range, you might as well consider the Tortoise.
I've only recently been installing Tortoise machines on my layout. They are solid and reliable, and they do work well through my 2 inches of foam, and I see no reason why they would't be fine with another 5/8 of plywood. The Tortoise comes with built-in contacts for powering frogs, or, if you prefer, for indicator lights or signals. You can wire LEDs in series with the motor, too, so that you can put lights on your panel and still keep the contacts free for frog power, if needed.
By the way, the slow motion of the points as the Tortoise pushes them over is a joy to behold. That alone is enough to justify Tortoises for at least the "showpiece" turnouts at the front of your layout.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
The short answer is yes.
My railroad is constructed of spline subroadbed with homasote roadbed and the mainline Homabed roadbed on top of the Homasote so my switch machines can be mounted up to 1-3/4" below the track in some spots. What you will need to do is a few simple things one of which is not necessary but my way of mounting Tortoise switch machines.(Giving credit where credit is due this is nothing i brainstormed but rather learned from Chuck a fellow board member)
. #1 Replace the turnout wire with .032 music wire, the standard wire is i believe .024 so by using the thicker wire you will eliminate all the flex form the wire therefore allowing a longer distance between the switch machine and the turnout. you will need to drill out the fulcrum on n the Tortoise to accept the larger diameter wire as well as drilling out the hole in the turnout throwbar for the same reason. You can choose to mount the Tortoise the standard way by working upside down if you wish or by holding it in place with double sided tape, Velcro, Latex adhesive caulk or any by using any other methods out there
#2 My preferred way of mounting Tortoise especially if you work alone is as follows. Cut a piece of 1/4" plywood 2"x4" and screw the Tortoise to it on the work bench. Now on either side of the turnout in line with the throwbar but but 1" to either one side or the other of the throwbar depending on the position of the tortoise start two drywall screws into your foam and down just catching the plywood. So now with one hand you guide the switch machine wire through the hole in the throwbar once you get it in the hole just hold it up against the plywood and screw the two drywall screws down into the 1/4" piece of plywood holding your tortoise and your done. the holes can be filled with something like joint compound before you ad your ground cover. The nice thing is the screws just disappear into the foam or homasote or what ever your layout surface is.
One little note is that it may take you a while before you get the hang of centering the wire just so in order that the switch machine operated smoothly but it is a lot easier doing it this way then working up sided down trust me on that.
I also see the first part of your question is Atlas my advice is don't. Would you rather drive a Ferrari or a Yugo the choice is yours.
Yes, you can extend the wires easily. Most modelers cut the wires and add in a section as long as they need. Just remember to keep the color coding consistant. If you extension uses different colors, make sure you note what new color replaced the old color. try to be consistant with ALL switch machines.
I am about to lay 2" foam base on 5/8 plywood and using atlas customline #6 turnouts. I would like some help as I have no experience with switch machines, and would like to know if you can make a longer extension for the throw wires so they can operate the turnouts from this far below the layout? Any Suggestions would be of great help.