Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Miller Engineering animated bus station sign

10059 views
25 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Tuesday, July 27, 2010 8:15 AM

His last post says his issue is solved.

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: S.E. Adirondacks, NY
  • 3,246 posts
Posted by modelmaker51 on Tuesday, July 27, 2010 8:06 AM

I would send them the module as well and let them test both before they send you another replacement, that way if it fails again it'll be on their dime and maybe they can then figure out what's wrong.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Tuesday, July 27, 2010 7:09 AM

That was pretty quick.  3 replacements in a couple of weeks.

Glad to hear you got it running.  Any pics? Whistling

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Overland Park, KS
  • 343 posts
Posted by dadret on Tuesday, July 27, 2010 7:03 AM

Finally got the problem solved and it looks like there were two conditions affecting the operation - I had cut a very narrow slot in the facade of my Walthers Silver Springs Terminal and I noticed that when I put the newest sign in the slot it didn't work right so I widened the slot so the sign had plenty of clearance on both sides and attached it at the bottom with hot glue (didn't use any CA glue) so I think it was a comination of the CA glue possibly getting on the contacts AND the narrow slot compressing the two sides of the sign together too much.  This sign is a little unique in that it is two sided.  Anyway, its in and working just fine.  I can't say enough good things about Miller Engineering  and their rep Chris - they were very helpful and worked with me until the problem was resolved, actually replaced the sign three times.  Good customer service is still alive and well.

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Ontario Canada
  • 3,574 posts
Posted by Mark R. on Friday, July 16, 2010 6:38 PM

You say the bus station sign is animated - are any of the other signs on your layout animated as well ? The flasher controller on the circuit board requires a pure source for power (like batteries). Your wall-wart may not be filtered and is messing with the flashers circuitry.

Did you try plugging the bus station sign into a non-animated output just to see if it would still illuminate ?

I can't find any of the instructions from the ones I have, but I do recall reading against using certain types of paints and adhesives on them.

Your best bet is to tell the folks at Miller Eng EXACTLY what you are doing, including the exact specifications of your power source, glues, paint, anything that may contribute to the problem.

Mark.  

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Sweden
  • 1,468 posts
Posted by Graffen on Friday, July 16, 2010 5:36 PM

I don´t have that sign but some other Miller billboards. All of them has worked flawlessly except for one of them, a theather marquee. It had been working alright until a week ago when it all but died on me...

I had glued it to a substructure that had a gentle curve (as in the instructions),  I used CA glue.

When inspected, it had delaminated on the edges (probably due to the glue or the curve or a combination of both).

After a mail to Miller, they just posted a replacement sign (lucky for me, as I had it as a gift from my wife...).

Kudos to Miller Engineering for the super customer service they have!!

Swedish Custom painter and model maker. My Website:

My Railroad

My Youtube:

Graff´s channel

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 8,851 posts
Posted by maxman on Friday, July 16, 2010 9:33 AM

dadret
Miller is going to send me another sign and a new module to see if this fixes the problem.

This time check the sign operation with the batteries before and after installation.  Then hook it up to your module and see if it still operates.

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Denver, CO
  • 3,576 posts
Posted by Motley on Friday, July 16, 2010 9:26 AM

So did they charge you for another sign?

I would try an alternative glue. Maybe some testors plastics glue. But still have to be careful with those contacts.

Good luck, and report back when you get the new sign.

Michael


CEO-
Mile-HI-Railroad
Prototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Overland Park, KS
  • 343 posts
Posted by dadret on Friday, July 16, 2010 6:46 AM

Thanks for all the input.  Miller is going to send me another sign and a new module to see if this fixes the problem.  I'm just about convinced that the super glue is the problem and that it somehow got onto the contacts and when I hooked it up to a power supply it fried the electronics.  In fact it looks like it probably did it twice and I just didn't make the connection between the two the first time.  Miller should probably include a warning not to use super glue, at least noplace where it could attack the contacts.  The glue I used contains a warning not to use on "polyethylene and polypropylene plastics" but I don't really know what the signs are made of.  It does look like there might be a slight discoloration of the sign where it is attached to my structure and this may indicate a problem.  Miller makes great products and they are really helpful and good people to work with as some of you have mentioned.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • 2,751 posts
Posted by Allegheny2-6-6-6 on Friday, July 16, 2010 12:28 AM

 

Motley

I used superglue on mine, it works fine. In fact, when I first called them when I got my sign, I was asking how to glue the aluminum support frame to the sign. They said to use superglue. But they explicity said if you get glue on the contacts then it will permamently damage the sign.

I bet you got a bit of superglue on those contacts.

 

Time to get out the magnifying glass and do a close visual inspection, even the fumes of that stuff can reek havoc try some time and see what it can do to a piece of extruded foam.

Just my 2 cents worth, I spent the rest on trains. If you choked a Smurf what color would he turn?
  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Denver, CO
  • 3,576 posts
Posted by Motley on Thursday, July 15, 2010 9:35 PM

I used superglue on mine, it works fine. In fact, when I first called them when I got my sign, I was asking how to glue the aluminum support frame to the sign. They said to use superglue. But they explicity said if you get glue on the contacts then it will permamently damage the sign.

I bet you got a bit of superglue on those contacts.

Michael


CEO-
Mile-HI-Railroad
Prototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Thursday, July 15, 2010 9:21 PM

I didn't see anything on their website warning against it.  Has anyone else?

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Thursday, July 15, 2010 8:09 PM

Those Miller Engineering signs are on an extremely thin substrate that can be dissolved by Super Glue.  The use of Super Glue has probably destroyed all of the ones you've been installing.

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Overland Park, KS
  • 343 posts
Posted by dadret on Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:22 PM

No it no longer works with the batteries either.

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Pennsylvania
  • 709 posts
Posted by nedthomas on Thursday, July 15, 2010 4:49 PM

The fumes from super glue (CA) will etch some material. Super glue windows in a caboose and in no time the "glass" will be fogged.  You may have a edge connector problem due to the glue.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Thursday, July 15, 2010 4:45 PM

Does it still work with the batteries?

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Overland Park, KS
  • 343 posts
Posted by dadret on Thursday, July 15, 2010 4:41 PM

The module is connected to a wall wart with 9VDC output through a pair of Atlas Connectors (on-off switches) and the individual signs connected to the connectors terminals, a set up that has worked fine for a long time.  I did disconnect some of the other signs but the bus sign still will not work - does not light at all.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Thursday, July 15, 2010 4:13 PM

Probably not.  Can you try just the failing sign alone on the module?  Disconnect the others.  It's possible you hit the limit of the supply.

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Overland Park, KS
  • 343 posts
Posted by dadret on Thursday, July 15, 2010 4:12 PM

I have this sign along with five other Miller signs connected to Miller's #4804 Converter Module - the other five work fine and have for two or three years so I don't think the power supply is a problem.  I secured the sign to my building with super glue (CA) - could this be causing a problem?

I
  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Thursday, July 15, 2010 4:10 PM

It still might be the problem. 

The actual sign uses 4.5 volts DC.  If the batteries worked than the issue would probably be the power source.  What is the input voltage to the module?

Edit:  Also what is the current rating of the transformer powering the module.  He has 4 signs and the module can do up to 6, however the transformer has to be large enough.

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 8,851 posts
Posted by maxman on Thursday, July 15, 2010 4:01 PM

Hamltnblue
Looking at the site it should be 4.5volts DC. Not AC. 

Site says input to module 5 to 17 volts, AC or DC. http://www.microstru.com/Billboards.html  He said he was using the 4804 convertor module.

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 8,851 posts
Posted by maxman on Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:50 PM

Have you checked the voltage output value of the module, and made sure that you have the correct input voltage to the module?  Maybe the module is at fault, and not the sign, especially since the sign(s) seem to work okay when tested with a battery.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:49 PM

If it worked with batteries, maybe the problem is with your adapter.  What did you use as an AC adapter includig specs.  Looking at the site it should be 4.5volts DC. Not AC.  AC would probably damage it.  I have one of their pabst signs and it works great with a radio shack supply.

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Overland Park, KS
  • 343 posts
Posted by dadret on Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:36 PM

I haven't talked to them about my most recent experience today but they are aware of the past problems - thought I'd see if anyone on here had any ideas first

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 8,851 posts
Posted by maxman on Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:32 PM

When you spoke to the Miller people did you happen to discuss with them the problem you're having?  Just asking.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Overland Park, KS
  • 343 posts
Miller Engineering animated bus station sign
Posted by dadret on Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:17 PM

I bought a Miller Engineering animated bus station sign (Kit #5882) a couple of months ago and it worked fine out of the box using batteries.  I installed it on my Walthers Silver Springs bus termininal by cutting a slot in the roof of the building and then hooked it up to an AC supply though the Miller 4804 module (I have four other Miller signs connected to this module).  When I turned it on only one side of the two sided sign worked so I returned it to Miller and they replaced the sign only.  I got the replacement, tested it again with the battery pack, it was OK but when I installed it on my structure it worked erratically for a while and then quit working at all.  I played around with it but to no avail so I returned the whole kit to Miller, they said I damaged it (which is possible) so they sent me a replacement and I paid the replacement charge.  Again, I tested this kit using the batteries and it wokred fine.  I removed the battery holder and installed it again with the same result - it worked erratically for a while and then quit completely.  I was very careful not to damage it but I can't figure out what if anything I'm doing wrong.  Any ideas?  I could use some help.  I've used Miller products for sometime and they are normally very reliable.

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!