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track gagues & ect

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  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,280 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, July 10, 2010 8:45 AM

If you are nailing track, you just have to go easy.  Drive the nails too far and the rails are out of gauge.

Practice till you find the right point to stop, secure enough, but not so much that you pull the rails inward.

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    April 2002
  • 921 posts
Posted by dante on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 10:46 PM
Allegheny2-6-6-6
Also a valuable set of tools I have it a set of track laying guides I purchased off the net some where. A machinist makes them out of 304 stainless steel not like the plastic one from Micormark but I suspect they work well also. There is a long one used for making sure flex track is straight and several other shorter ones as well. I usually will take the guide and run it up and down the length of the track I am laying and it takes any minor kinks out that may have happened form shipping or storage etc.

Referring to Ribbonrail gauges/guides for tangent track and several radii?  I have several and they work very well. 

Dante

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • 2,751 posts
Posted by Allegheny2-6-6-6 on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 10:33 PM

 Your question is a little cryptic as Sir Mad dog stated but I'll throw my two cents worth in. I can't say as I have ever seen flex track out of gauge and never any sectional track. I have only seen it a few rare times on turnouts and i have to credit this to some good manufacturing processes .I have seen points slightly out of gauge and as mention very gently you push them back into gauge.

As a model railroader you need to purchase and NMRA gauge if yo don't already own one and go to their website and or read the instructions that come with the gauge.Not owing one is like a carpenter not owning a tape measure. Also a valuable set of tools I have it a set of track laying guides I purchased off the net some where. A machinist makes them out of 304 stainless steel not like the plastic one from Micormark but I suspect they work well also. There is a long one used for making sure flex track is straight and several other shorter ones as well. I usually will take the guide and run it up and down the length of the track I am laying and it takes any minor kinks out that may have happened form shipping or storage etc.

Just my 2 cents worth, I spent the rest on trains. If you choked a Smurf what color would he turn?
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 3,312 posts
Posted by locoi1sa on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 7:42 PM

 I have had some success heating the rail on plastic ties with a soldering gun and gently push the rail with a small screw driver to adjust gauge. On the Peco code 100 turnouts being built to British standards the guard rail gaps are too wide so I glue styrene shims to the guard rails.

 My new home layout is hand laid into the Central valley tie strips that are self gauging but I still use the ME and home made track gauges when laying rail.

     Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Eastern Shore Virginia
  • 3,290 posts
Posted by gandydancer19 on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 6:27 PM

Sir Madog

When you lay your track, you should in any case check, whether the track and the turnouts are in gauge. Get a NMRA track gauge for that purpose, one of the most important tool you need as a model railroader.

Should your track be out og gauge, you can gently bent the rails in- or outward a little, until they are in gauge. Remember, gently is the word!

 

I agree.  You may also want to purchase some small spikes to help adjust the track gauge.  That is what I do.  I drill a pin hole next to the rail in the plastic tie, then spike it down.  It will move the rail just enough in or out depending on the side of the rail that is spiked.

I despise track nails as I have never seen them in use on the prototype, and if you nail them down too tight, they will force the track gauge to be narrow.

Elmer.

The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.

(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 4:40 AM

 Quite frankly, I have problems in finding out, what your question is.

When you lay your track, you should in any case check, whether the track and the turnouts are in gauge. Get a NMRA track gauge for that purpose, one of the most important tool you need as a model railroader.

Should your track be out og gauge, you can gently bent the rails in- or outward a little, until they are in gauge. Remember, gently is the word!

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Bouse, AZ
  • 12 posts
track gagues & ect
Posted by MR Arcus on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 3:37 AM

just got aug book talks about switches & how to fix em execpt what happens when track is to wide or narrow not quite sure how to make it right and what ever happend to turns 18dec. then 20 are the lger. turns still made??? any help would nice takes rofever to type all this out  

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