It is a manual below layout switch. Sells for $9 RTR or $6 in a kit.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Quite expensive - just for a little wood n´ wire!
$ 9 buys you a Seep switch motor in the UK or a Conrad switch motor with built-in polarity change switch in Germany.
$9 is cheap. The Bluepoint manual control which is basically the same thing in plastic is MUCH more. A Tortoise motorized one is $19 now! I like my $2 RC plane servos...
However, it appears from other threads that our locomotives and rolling stock are less expensive.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker-Could you please post an in depth "how to" on your RC servo method??Using those sounds like a great idea!
Yeah, I'm using these on my new layout. I've ordered four but have only assembled and used 3 of them so far. The toughest part is getting them aligned on the X and Y axis and then if you don't buy the "Bullfrog" type connecting rods that can be a bit of a PIA too. I used some small wooden dowel rods and just took a long drapery pin and stuck it in the end with a little super glue and hooked it to the mechanism on the switch machine. I like them so far. And they work well in my book.
Loathar,
Here's a link to Tam Valley Depot, which markets the RC servo turnout control decoders and related items.
http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/home.html
cacoleLoathar, Here's a link to Tam Valley Depot, which markets the RC servo turnout control decoders and related items. http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/home.html
Thanks!
Tam Valley is where I got my stuff from. Those 9G servos he sells for like $4.50, those I get on eBay from China for $13 for 6, shipping (airmail!) from China included. So I just buy the boards from Tam Valley, also the mounting brackets from Motrak. Super handy, but there are other ways to mount them. This is the easiest, basically exactly like a Tortoise. Even witht he extra expense of the controller, the relay add-on, the servo bracket, and the servos, the cost per turnout is no more than the cost of a Tortoise, PLUS that cost includes a DCC decoder AND the pushbuttons and LEDs for the local control buttons on the fascia.
I have some actual experience with them, as I've built, and installed a number of the Bullfrogs, and really like them. They are a very reliable, simple device with a lot of throw power.
I don't have the need for motorized turnouts, so I've looked long and hard for manual solutions.
I found the caboose throws were ok if you modified an N scale one to work with HO, but they're a few dollars a package, and didn't allow for a prototypical switch stand for my layout.
I found the bluepoints worked well once you got them in, they had a nice solid snap, but the wire that came with mine was too weak to throw my turnouts, and getting them lined up correctly was a real challange for me - even after making a mounting template. Once lined up, and with stiffer piano wire, they worked well. They are not cheap though, and come with no throw rods - once you add that, the price goes up. I will say that I contacted their manufacturer about the throw strength, and found their responses useful and timely. A good company.
I've looked at homemade solutions, including the sliding bolt method, and things along that line, but in truth, I don't want to spend my hobby time tinkering with that sort of thing.
I bought a couple of bullfrogs when they first came out, and immediately liked them. They were fast and easy to assemble, and worked well right away - Fast Tracks supplied a nice stiff wire. Getting them installed underneath the layout was a lot easier than the blue points, as they are a lot less fussy - the throw range seems to be a lot longer than the BPs.
I ended up replacing the blue points I had installed with bullfrogs, and sold off the unused blue points on eBay. For my next layout, it will be all bullfrogs. For the record, I also purchased the control rod sets from FT, the whole thing is still under $10 a turnout, and I was able to easily salvage the mounted bullfrogs from my last layout, with no real damage.
My experience with Fast Tracks products has indicated that they are all very well thought out and designed - I was worried that the bullfrog wouldn't be strong enough, or stiff enough, but they are amazingly rugged and powerful.
For the record, I don't work for Fast Tracks, but I have been a very satisfied customer of theirs.
Hope that helps.
I'm trying to model 1956, not live in it.
The thread subject is Bullfrog, but while we're kicking around manual throws, how about Humpyard? Anyone tried those?
Dante
I have and I like them. Will definitely be using them.
The only problem is that in foam, you have to build something to anchor the cables, as the foam won't hold the screws.
Thanks SpaceMouse! Do they have a method to power the frogs? Their website shows how to power the points, if I understand it correctly, but says nothing about the frog.
PS. They appear to be quite flexible regarding placement and require almost no space under the turnout. And ..... they're inexpensive!
I honestly don't remember. Running two turnouts off of one lever was tough but doable.
You could use the humpyard to "control" a bullfrog or bluepoint (as both have the microswitch to power the frog). It would boost your costs, but the humpyards are way cool.
Were it easier to order a couple for testing, than I probably would have.
Scarpia You could use the humpyard to "control" a bullfrog or bluepoint (as both have the microswitch to power the frog). It would boost your costs, but the humpyards are way cool. Were it easier to order a couple for testing, than I probably would have.
I was thinking the same thing, The only thing is, it is kind of redundant, The hump yard switches work fine on their own.
Chip,
If you want a simple clean inexpensive way our operating your turnouts here is what Tony Koester did on his new NKP extension. A Minitronics mini slide switch for wiring the frog etc. and a small piece of wire attached to the throwbar and the slide switch it self. The turnouts are operated with pics or he plans on gluing switch stands on to the slide switch to camouflage the switch. Simple easy and cheap.
If you want to use Humpyard's manual controls on foam the best way to mount them is cut a small piece of 1/4" plywood and glue it to the underside of the foam using Liquid Nails for foam adhesive. I have mounted Tortoise switch machines this way and also in addition to gluing the plywood I have run down two sheet rock screws from the top side into the plywood on either side of the switch machine. When the screws bite into the plywood they pull the plywood tight to the foam of course you don't go animal with the screw gun. I like it because it actually embeds the plywood into the foam making a nice secure bond. Try it out on a piece of scrap foam you'll see what I mean.
For the most part my new layout will be cookie cutter with homasote in the yard. But what I did was carve out a block of the 2" foam and glue in a 1.5" x 1.5"x 1.5" block near the turnout to mount the cable cleat. I plan to use the hump yard switches in my yard(s), Caboose stands in my industries, and something I can operate remotely for staging.
I have exchanged communications with Humpyard and rechecked their website. They have a photo showing how to power the frog (although they don't mention it specifically) and a drawing that shows how to power the points, if you so choose. Simply done-it looks as though it would work: they appear good to go.
Thats the first I have ever heard and seen Humpback products. Very slick and kind of neat looking.
I like the Bullfrogs from Fastracks. Thier price for the control rods is actually fair so don't hesitate to buy them, but you could go to an RC shop for very similar rods. The only drawback is Fastracks does charge for shipping, so the bigger your order the less each turnout comes out to.
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/BullFrog-Manual-Turnout-Control-s/2087.htm
I used the $6 kits and the $3.29 rod kit. $9.29 is half of the tortoise and you will still need a power supply and fascia switch for it. The Bullfrog does come with one electrical contact for signal or frog polarity and there is an option to add another if you want both. I also added longer throwbar wires as they had to travel through 4" of foam.
Heres some shots of how I utilized a couple on my 2'x6' freemoN module. They control 2-#10 Atlas code 55 turnouts in a crossover and run off one knob. The throw is quite robust and clicks in nicely. Mine are mounted on foam and I was concerned about the small base not holding up to the stresses. My solution was to mount them on a small narrow piece of thin plywood then use liquid nails and 1-1/2" screws to add a bit more strength. You can screw into the foam but only a couple times before the hole becomes useless. If you look close you will see that I used a cleves that come with the rod kit I purchesed at the RC shop to allow one Bullfrog to piggyback off the other.
Hope this helps.
John