I used Evergreen styrene strips to make "wood" crossings on my Atlas code 83 track.
For the section between the rails, I used four strips of .080"x.125" material, cementing it directly to the ties and between the moulded-on spike heads. The .080" thickness puts the top surface just below the railheads, so passing trains won't snag if their couplers are properly adjusted. The width of the spike heads allows for decent flangeway width, although the "bump" for vehicles could be a litle rough on their suspension.
For the pieces along the outer edges of the rails, I cemented strips of .040"x.060" (wide side facing up) to the tops of the spike heads, then added a strip of .080"x.080", cementing it to both the previously-applied strip and to the tops of the tie ends. All of these strips, by the way, were distressed before installation by dragging a razor saw along their length to impart some "wood grain". I also pre-painted the tops and ends before assembly, then touched-up as required after they were in place.
For broadly curved track, you can simply pre-bend the strips to the approximate shape, then cement them in place: even though non-prototypical, it looks fine to my eye.
For sharper curves, I used straight boards for the centre of the mid-track section, then cut wider material material for the edge pieces, matching the curve of the rails. The strips along the outer edges of the rails were pre-curved to fit.
You can also use the same strips to simulate a dirt or gravel crossing - simply eliminate the boards from the centre section:
For a city street crossing, I used plain .080" sheet styrene, cut to fit:
Wayne
Don't overlook the inexpensive packages of "craft sticks" that craft and hobby stores sell (even those that have no trains per se). They are like match sticks without the match head and are very close to the timber sizes used for crossings in HO. A thin wash (or dry brushing) should color them up nicely.
Another thought is scribed siding of plastic, such as Evergreen or Plastruct sells. Properly painted and weathered it should look just fine, and if you make a template out of paper, easily cut to size with a knife or sissors. Even better the thinner profile should eliminate concerns about coupler pins catching on the crossing.
Dave Nelson
The owner of City Classics sells a curvable wooden grade crossing that looks great. He doesn't list them on his site but you can shoot him an Email for info.
http://cityclassics.fwc-host.com/
galaxy If you can find it, balsa hobby wood would work well to make grade crossings. cut to shape you want, where you want.
If you can find it, balsa hobby wood would work well to make grade crossings. cut to shape you want, where you want.
Second the motion. As for finding it, I got my most recent supply at Michaels. Any half-decent craft shop should carry it. Just pick a thickness a little less than your rail height, and be prepared to cut individual boards from sheet stock. A pin dipped in black paint will make good spike detail - on the prototype, the spike (or lag bolt) is recessed below the wearing surface. Alcohol-based stain (or magic markers) will kill the bright new wood look, unless that's what you want. In the real world, the wood used is either creosoted or treated with something else that imparts a characteristic color - like copper sulfate green.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with plank, or plank-and-dirt, grade crossings)
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
http://www.tvwminiatures.com/products.html
They're not shown on his website yet since it's not finished, but he offers a wide variety of wooden crossings. Some are ready to use straight sections, some can be curved to fit, others are sheets of separate boards with nail patterns and there is one large sheet with board and nail patterns laser cut into it.
I'd e-mail him for a listing.
Jim
I have several street grade crossings of various complex shapes (over curved cross tracks, turnouts, etc). None of the factory made wood grade crossings will work. Where can I get a large sheet of wood with the grade crossing plank pattern and nail/spike pattern already on it so I can cut to match my layout conditions? Thanks!