On another thread there are negative comments about Woodland's Track Bed. Someone complained that it was not thick enough and someone else "heard there were major issues" and yet another complained that it developed "bumps" from the weights he put on it while he was gluing it down. really makes one wonder how much weight was put on it!
Anyway I have just started using it and only have two comments: Firstly the roll version is slightly thinnner and softer than the strip version and secondly why don't they make it in a split form as cork roadbed is? I actually had to split the strip version to allow it to follow a curve.
Also is the roadbed width actually to wide to form an appropriate ballast profile?
Bill
I used a lot of it for my N-scale layout and really enjoyed working with it.
I noticed a little difference in height here & there but nothing that caused me issues.
I know the N-scale roadbed is, or can be split for curves. I just tore it down the seam.
I've been using it on Phase 2 of my layout for the last few months. I'm very happy with it. It has a cut down the center on the underside, but it doesn't go all the way through. It's easy enough to cut along the line for the curves, while leaving the roadbed solid for the straights. I've also been using some of the large sheets for sections where I have a lot of parallel tracks, or to make roadbed sections to go under turnouts.
I find it's forgiving and flexible when there are irregularities in the sub-roadbed. As I go from one section of benchwork to the next, particularly between Phase 1 and Phase 2 of the layout, the WS foam smooths out those small height differences.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I used it on my previous layout and had no problems. No issues with curves, either, although the mainline ones were 30". I went down to about 24 on some spots, still no problem curving it.
It actually IS split, just not all the way through. If you do need to split it, use the already started split and run a knife through it. I can imagine that perhaps for 18" radius curves it might need some help.
Proper adhesive works wonders - I used latex caulk, and putting down roadbed couldn;t be easier. I could spread caulk over half the layout and then take the roll and go to town. In fact I'm somewhat kicking myself for switching back to cork for this one, I would have had the roadbed done by now if I had the WS rolls, with fewer and less messy looking seams.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I've been using it without any problems. The only time I think you need to use the split is for very tight turns. 22 inch works fine as is.
Springfield PA
you said it. on the sides, i use undiluted white glue and i still have trouble with it sticking. seems like the roadbed absorbs it!!
Strange. I only got around to ballasting a test section, mainly to see what 'formula' worked best. Which was when I discovered that with the hard water we have around here, the 'drop or two of dish soap' traditional method did not work at ALL - it just sat on top of the ballast and made a crust. What ended up workign was 70% isopropyl mixed about 50/50 with white glue. That soaked right in to the ballast and it seemed to be well adhered to the sides. I didn't make a concerted effort to pick it off, but pressing on the track (like when using a Brite Boy) did not cause the ballast to crack or flake off. The test section was on a scrap of extruded foam, it it was moved around a lot, stood up on end, laid across sawhorses to test things, the stood up on end again - and the ballast done with the alcohol stayed put.
---Randy
I use the trackbed exclusively on my new layout I am constructing. My old layout was all cork which I never really had an issue with except the old stuff was useless as it dried out and was brittle. The new foam stuff (in my own opinion here) is the cats meow..I have used it on all curve radius and inclines...I have used sheets of it in yards. And I only use the Foam Tack glue on it with a little patience. You do have to use glue that is a little stronger dilution for ballast work...but have not had ANY of it flake off after drying. It comes down to a preference thing. Use what works best for your time and money...and whatever makes you have the most fun!!...Good Luck.
A true friend will not bail you out of jail...he will be sitting next to you saying "that was friggin awesome dude!" Tim...Modeling the NYC...is there any other?
I didn't bother gluing it down
The track spikes for the rail hold both well enough
51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )
ME&O
bagal On another thread there are negative comments about Woodland's Track Bed. Someone complained that it was not thick enough and someone else "heard there were major issues" and yet another complained that it developed "bumps" from the weights he put on it while he was gluing it down. really makes one wonder how much weight was put on it! Anyway I have just started using it and only have two comments: Firstly the roll version is slightly thinnner and softer than the strip version and secondly why don't they make it in a split form as cork roadbed is? I actually had to split the strip version to allow it to follow a curve.
Bill,
If I am not mistaken, that was a thread that I initiated but on a different topic. One one the repllies noted that the softness of the foam track bed resulted in dips in the track work if the nails were driven too deeply through the plastic ties.
I have had that experience but the problem is more with aggressive nailing than with the softness of the foam. The nails can be lifted and renailed to solve the problem. I see no reason to put weights on the track work when gluing it down. If weight is applied, sufficient weight can be used without depressing the foam. Or, use track pins while gluing, instead of weight, then remove the track pins when the glue dries.
In my experience, the roll is just as easy to separate or split as the strip version. Both the roll and the strip are perforated or scored so it is easy to split when laying curves. In the past, I have actually separated the roll into two pieces to facilitate laying curves.
I use a 50/50 mix of water/matte medium to secure the ballast and the foam track bed readily accepts the mix. After 7 years, I have removed some of the ballasted track work, and the foam bed is still soft and pliable.
The roadbed width is wide enough to form an appropriate ballast profile. Someone commented in my thread that the 5mm height of the WS foam roadbed is too low to be prototypical, but others challenged that statement saying that when ballasted, the roadbed was at a prototypical height of 6mm to 7 mm.
Lastly, I have never used cork for the roadbed, but the guys at my LHS always told me that cork becomes brittle with age and is noisier than foam.
Hope that helps.
Rich
Alton Junction
Bill:
Rich is right on about the WS foam roadbed---I use it on my Yuba River Sub and it works extremely well--the oldest sections are about 8 years old and work just fine. In my dry, hot climate, cork tends to become brittle and 'flaky' after just about a year, but the WS has stood up to climate changes without any problems. Fixing the track with removable pins before ballasting will work just fine. When dry, remove the pins and the track will stay there. At least mine has, after eight years of fairly heavy operations. And for tight radii, as Rich says, the roadbed can be 'split' with little problem--the underside 'slice' is deep enough that you almost don't need a knife to separate the two halves.
Rich's suggestion about Matte medium for fixing ballast is an excellent one--the WS is a little 'spongier' than cork, and Matte medium is much more flexible than thinned white glue---at least what I've found. And though more expensive in the long run, the WS Scenic Cement (the pre-thinned type) works extremely well, also. I dribble it on the ballast after soaking the ballast with water and 2-3 drops of liquid detergent. I have no problems with clumping or the ballast coming up after it's dry.
I like it. It's really worked for me.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
I use it exclusively and it works great. I don't use nails.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Thank you for the replies. My track bed is now in place. I split most of the track bed so that the track centre line is transferred for easier track laying. Here is the work to date;
Looking good !
Glad we all could be of some help.
I have about a 50/50 mix of cork and WS roadbed. I used a latex contact cement to put it all down. I used both matte medium and Aleene's Tacky glue (stays flexible) using detergent with the glue and alcohol to mist the ballast (pre-wetting). 10 years later it's all still intact, no crumbling etc. (the area I showed in the Doubleslips thread http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/175484.aspx?PageIndex=2, was all done with WS roadbed).I've never had any problems with cork drying out, but then I ballast my track fairly soon after laying the track, once sealed i have had no deterioration of the cork.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums