Hello-
I've had some bad luck with code 100 Mark IV turnouts, and have posted negative opinions of them. I've only used them on a 2' x 4' club module which is ported to and from 'shows'. Basically, I find the points literally fall out of the throw bar - the pivots are not secure enough to withstand module handling.
Now, I'm in need of some code 100 turnouts for under-layout staging - a permanent setup at home. Peco's are about $20 or so, Walthers/Shino are only available in code 83. This leaves Atlas at about $14. So I'm wondering just how reliable they are in permanent use. Don't want to do this twice.
There is also the problem of finding the little screws to attach a wire to the frog. These mini screws come in the 'snap relay', but buying a bunch of them is not only overkill, it is not what I want to use - don't need the snap sound, and will be using Torti anyway, which have aux contacts. (Yes, I know about the current limit, but it's only a 1-amp limit during switch action - more like 5 amps in steady state. They work just fine for the frog.)
Comments on reliability of these Atlas turnouts would be appreciated.
Thanks much -
Dick Chaffer / Bozeman, MT
I run atlas code 83 turnouts and they work great. A few had to be tuned after they were installed but it wasn't too hard.
Springfield PA
I use Atlas code 83 track and turnouts and haven't had any problems. Our modular group has plenty of Atlas code 100 track and turnouts on the various modules (enough to build a layout 14x190 feet - a LOT of modules) and there has not been any issue witht hem breaking or being damaged when transportign between shows, or in and out of storage to have the scenery worked on while between shows.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Dick,
I have over 50 Atlas Custom Line turnouts, #4 and #6, on my layout. They are excellent, not one has ever failed. I have never been inclined to buy any other turnout. None of the turnouts has ever required any tuning whatsoever.
Rich
Alton Junction
I purchased around 50 of them all code 83 from a hobby shop that was dropping their model railroad line, paid $5.00/each so I couldn't pass the deal up. Listening to some of my model railroad buddy's who know all there is to know when it comes to all things trains I had planned on putting them on one of the message boards or an auction site to make a quick buck and put it towards Walthers/Shinohara's. I decided to use a pair of #6's I was pleasantly surprised at how nicely built they were and how well they worked. I have 6 of them left to use on the layout. Glad I didn't listen to someone who knew what they were talking about.
Note:Their only drawback if you want to call it that is that the frogs are made of what appears to be a white metal of pot metal which in it self is no big deal but if you want to power the frogs you can't solder to it. You need to tap threads into them and run a screw up from underneath, at least that how I do it.
That's exactly what I do to power the frogs - I picked up some 1-72 brass screws (I think - not at home right now), and I found I didn't even have to tap the hole, it's soft enough to self-tap, and that screw is NOT coming out unless I unscrew it. When I place a turnout, I drill two holes - one under the throwbar for the operating mechanism (I use rc plane servos) and one under the frog for the screw and its attached green wire (frogs are green - get it? ).
rrinker When I place a turnout, I drill two holes - one under the throwbar for the operating mechanism (I use rc plane servos) and one under the frog for the screw and its attached green wire (frogs are green - get it? ).
When I place a turnout, I drill two holes - one under the throwbar for the operating mechanism (I use rc plane servos) and one under the frog for the screw and its attached green wire (frogs are green - get it? ).
LOL, we get it!
As for myself I use the Atlas code 100 mark 4 turnouts and like em. They can use a little tune-up and for transporting modules please check my website for transporting options. As for the screws you can find them at any good hardware store by the bag.
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
My Train Page My Photobucket Page My YouTube Channel
I have one Atlas Code 83 turnout and have not had any problem with it. I use Peco and W/S on the rest of my layout. by the way, I had no problem soldering a feed wire to the cast metal frog??? I also have 4 additional Atlas turnouts that I plan to install in my yard when I get to that part of the layout.
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Thanks to those who replied. I'm glad to see that others have had reliable service even with code 100's, which is all I'm interested in. It is not practical to solder to the blackened-metal frogs on these turnouts - at least for me. Even after scraping clean, using techniques that work well with Shino's, Walthers, ME, I ruined several adjacent ties. In addition, I did have three turnouts fail in succession on a module (only one turnout on the module) over a two-month period, the points simply becoming unattached to the throw bar pivots. This did seem to happen during transport, though I'm pretty sure there was no rough handling or 'catching' parts.
It never occurred to me to try a hardware store for the itty-bitty screws. We do have one (1) store here in Bozeman that just might carry something that fits - or nearly fits.
I'm going to try this on below-layout staging; all the turnouts will be next to the layout edge (a-la Tony Koester) and so easily accessible for repair (i.e., replacement).
Many thanks for the thoughtful and informative replies.
jrcBozeHello- I've had some bad luck with code 100 Mark IV turnouts, and have posted negative opinions of them. I've only used them on a 2' x 4' club module which is ported to and from 'shows'. Basically, I find the points literally fall out of the throw bar - the pivots are not secure enough to withstand module handling.Now, I'm in need of some code 100 turnouts for under-layout staging - a permanent setup at home. Peco's are about $20 or so, Walthers/Shino are only available in code 83. This leaves Atlas at about $14. So I'm wondering just how reliable they are in permanent use. Don't want to do this twice.There is also the problem of finding the little screws to attach a wire to the frog. These mini screws come in the 'snap relay', but buying a bunch of them is not only overkill, it is not what I want to use - don't need the snap sound, and will be using Torti anyway, which have aux contacts. (Yes, I know about the current limit, but it's only a 1-amp limit during switch action - more like 5 amps in steady state. They work just fine for the frog.)Comments on reliability of these Atlas turnouts would be appreciated.Thanks much -Dick Chaffer / Bozeman, MT
I've had similar experiences with Atlas turnouts. I have a bunch because I bought them years ago, but I won't be using them on my permanent layout. I'm going to handlay them, even the ones in staging.
rrinker(I use rc plane servos)
Randy, I've been meaning to ask you about that-- what/how are you going about it? (I understand servos, how they work, how they're normally controlled, etc.,) I'm curious to know how you do it? What about when you turn power on/off-- does everything hunt for its position? Do you have to set it all back up? I'm presuming you can get away with the cheapest servos, that there's not much torque involved?
John
John,
Go to this web site -- they have lots of information about using RC servos to control model railroad turnouts, and even sell a DCC decoder which can also be controlled by push-buttons.
http://www.tamvalleydepot.com
cacole John, Go to this web site -- they have lots of information about using RC servos to control model railroad turnouts, and even sell a DCC decoder which can also be controlled by push-buttons. http://www.tamvalleydepot.com
I'm using his controllers. They save the endpoints once you set them up. I'm using the quads, so I can control my turnouts either via DCC or the fascia buttons. I also added the relay board to power my frogs, although I never needed to do so on my previous layout. I will be adding a DB150 to provide power to the rails via a PM42, and the track power outputs of my Zephyr will feed the turnout controllers.
I also am using those mouting bracketshe sells that Motrak made up - talk about making it easy. I buy the servos from some Chinese place on eBay though, last batch I got was 6 servos for $13 including shipping. Even adding all this together the per turnout price is less than a Tortoise and I'm geting the fascia button and indicators as well as DCC decoder at that price. Nothign wrong with Tortoises, I used them for years, but they have gotten ridiculously high in price.
cacoleJohn, Go to this web site -- they have lots of information about using RC servos to control model railroad turnouts, and even sell a DCC decoder which can also be controlled by push-buttons. http://www.tamvalleydepot.com
Cool, thanks for the info!
john
rrinkerNothign wrong with Tortoises, I used them for years, but they have gotten ridiculously high in price.
I hear ya there-- and I've got dozens of servos laying around anyway. Probably another couple dozen brand new in boxes collecting dust. I like the controllers with the fascia controls-- that's really cool.
rrinkercacole John, Go to this web site -- they have lots of information about using RC servos to control model railroad turnouts, and even sell a DCC decoder which can also be controlled by push-buttons. http://www.tamvalleydepot.com I'm using his controllers. They save the endpoints once you set them up. I'm using the quads, so I can control my turnouts either via DCC or the fascia buttons. I also added the relay board to power my frogs, although I never needed to do so on my previous layout. I will be adding a DB150 to provide power to the rails via a PM42, and the track power outputs of my Zephyr will feed the turnout controllers. I also am using those mouting bracketshe sells that Motrak made up - talk about making it easy. I buy the servos from some Chinese place on eBay though, last batch I got was 6 servos for $13 including shipping. Even adding all this together the per turnout price is less than a Tortoise and I'm geting the fascia button and indicators as well as DCC decoder at that price. Nothign wrong with Tortoises, I used them for years, but they have gotten ridiculously high in price. --Randy
Randy and others,
FYI Duncan now offers a servo mount and he also makes the quad decoder to operate Tortoise switch machines. Whats nice about using his quad decoders for operating your Turtles is that the terminal that was intended to be sued for the R/C servo can now be used to operated a signal , semaphore etc.Also his Hex Frog Juicer is the easiest way in my O/P to power up frogs. One wire and his board does all the rest. I do plan on using his servos to switch the new yard I am planning now strictly as it's much more cost effective like you mentioned.
RE: Using the RC servos-- is there much noticeable noise from the servo as it operates? And is the run rate configurable?
I have some free time at the moment and I've been taking a better look at the stuff on the web site you mentioned: http://www.tamvalleydepot.com and it really looks good. It seems a little pricey at first, but in thinking about it, I don't see how I could homebrew it much cheaper. And I must say that it seems pretty well thought-through as well. I'm gonna hafta buy some of those-- they just seem really slick! Unless anybody has any negatives that they've found ( ?? ), I think I've selected a turnout mechanism.
EDIT: Another thing that's just occurred to me is that you could also use some sort of 'ground-throw' type of thing, only instead its a 'switch', which would activate the turnout. Then you could locate it near the actual turnout so it could operate in a manner similar to what people are used to. The "connection" to the switch is then simply cosmetic since the actual actuator mechanism is the servo (or I guess, a conventional stall motor).
Since you've been reading stuff on Duncan's site, I presue you have found out that yes, the run rate of the servos is configurable. I haven't found them to be any noisier than a Tortoise, usually quieter depending on the speed. Improperly adjusted end points will make them buzz and eventually burn out, as well as make the controller run hot. The Motrak mounts make the linkage work much like a Tortoise and there is little back pressure on the servo, so the endpoints are very stable.
The Hex Frog Juicer is great for complex trackwork, but for a simple turnout where the frog needs to be connected to either the left rail or the right rail and it's quite obvious, the relay or a microswitch is more economical. When you get into the kind of thing like Tim Warris has on his CNJ Bronx Terminal, the Frog Juicer is invaluable. Most of the trackwork is simply insane, yet 100% prototypical. Only the prototype didn't have to worry about the rails conducting power to run the loco.
I just realized that Duncan's mounts are Motrak mounts and yes just by the little exposure I've had to them I completely see their virtue over other switch machines. Nothing wrong with Tortoise they are actually very good but unless you either get a screaming great deal on them or win the lottery they are becoming out of reach. I hear you on the HFJ but the yard I am planning although nothing as complicated as that CNJ yard will still be a mess to try and wire the conventional way. I am one who embraces technology especially when I have to work my brain less because of it.