Greg Shindledecker Modeling the =WM= Thomas Sub in the mid-70s
Another alternative is a roll of vinyl flashing available at Lowe's and Home Depot. Less likely to crease or dent.
Alton Junction
I think the article was in the January 2010 RMC. Here is a link to a previous forum thread that discussed the aluminum backdrop idea to some extent: http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/166429/1829162.aspx#1829162
If you do a search in this section of the forum I think there was also a previous thread.
Regards
Nope, not aluminum flashing. Use COIL METAL. It is used to trim out vinyl siding on houses. It comes in 60 foot rolls. Coil metal is thicker and stiffer than flashing. It also comes in colors like the OP said.
When I used it, I made some dents, drill a hole in the center of the dent and fastened it using dry wall screws. Then just used mud (joint compound) to cover and smooth it out. Once painted with primer and latex paint, you can't detect them.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I am guessing it is rolls of aluminum flashing they are talking about. I have two 3' wide rolls out in my garage that I use to dog proof things. It dents and wrinkles very easily and would not be my first choice for a backdrop by a long shot. It is also very expensive. It is available at any building supply shop.
Masonite seams can be made to disappear with little effort. And Masonite is dirt cheap. The photo below has two seams in it and I challenge anyone to be able to find them. Go ahead and get as close as you like.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Don't recall the article, but if I were going to use aluminum, sheet styrene or anything else that would look seriously ugly with screws or such in it I'd use a slotted form at top and bottom. Cutting a straight slot would be easy on any table saw, or with a router. Corner coves and serpentines would be more of an adventure.
What would make me a bit wary of aluminum roll stock for a backdrop would be the ease with which it would collect dings and bump marks. I've yet to see natural sky with a crease or other deformity in it.
Of course, if you plan to use something like heavyweight aircraft grade aluminum alloy to avoid that, be aware that the backdrop would end up costing as much as the reat of the railroad...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I've used aluminum backdrops a number of times and really enjoy working with them for the reasons you mention. I originally got the idea from the old Railmodel Journal Magazine (no longer in print). I also seem to recall another article about it in more recent times but can't recall the source. The method of attachment varies depending on whether the backdrop is against a wall or running down a peninsula. My largest surprise though when initially working with it is how easily it 'stays put' with little or no support. What little weight the aluminum has, resting on the benchwork, does most of the job with just a little extra help securing it here and there all that is needed. In other words, let the aluminum rest on the bench work with the bench work carrying the weight.
If the room is finished with standard drywall there is no real need to put something on top of that. Just paint the drywall. If you want coved corners, skip the aluminum and by a slab of sheet metal at Home Depot, bend it, and glue it the drywall with contact cement. Feather the edges in with joint compound.
If the layout room has studs or furring strips along the wall, drill a small hole in the aluminum near the top at the stud locations and drive a small brad in to hold it in place. It doesn't take much to keep the backdrop stationary, particulary if the bench work is carrying the weight and when scenery will be added at the bottom to buttress it as well.
When running down a peninsula if there is any bend, 'L' or 'J' shape to the backdrop path it will almost sit there on it's own accord without much additional support. Just pinch the bottom every four feet or so with blocks of wood to make sure. The ends are the only area that need extra support. For that I got a small 3/4" square piece of wood to use as a backdrop end post, secured the post to the bench work, and then glued the edge of the aluminum to that. Again, once the scenery is put in place the bottom is really pinched off and secure.
For backdrops on the peninsula if you want additional support you can slot a 1x2 and run it down from the ceiling rafters to clip the top of the backdrop. That's overkill in my view though.
Other parting notes: The aluminum is cut by the same 'scribe and snap' method you use for styrene. If you accidently get a dimple or dent in the aluminum just patch it with joint compound. Remember that metal conducts electricity so be wary of any exposed electrical wires as you work with the sheets.
Lance Mindheim
visit the Downtown Spur at www.lancemindheim.com
I recall reading an article a few years ago about using metal/aluminum coil stock for scenery backdrops, but can not find it anywhere. It curves really well, has long continuous length without seams, comes in colors, and should be easier to install than masonite. However, I don't remember how they attached it.
Has anyone tried this or do they know where I can get a copy of the article?
K4pop