rrebellI will tell you, those double crossovers are a pain, so much so that I removed one from a yard. The caboose ground throws are the way to go, ultra reliable.
I will tell you, those double crossovers are a pain, so much so that I removed one from a yard. The caboose ground throws are the way to go, ultra reliable.
I hear you on being a pain but the only problem I found with using Tortoise switch machines on my #6 double slips was that the because of their size the Tortoise almost touch each other. I tried mounting them farther apart and used music wire to connect to the throwbars but after finding out about the r/c servo motors it was a no brainer. Now that he has a mount for them it's even easier not to mention cheaper. If I hadn't already had a small fortune tied up in Tortoise switch machines I would have used the servos on all of my turnouts no question.
Thanks a lot!
Regards,
Soutrik
@Allegheny
Thank you for the detailed reply and those wonderful photographs. As I mentioned, due to shortage of space, I had to build right on top of my cabs - at least the lower shelf, partly. To answer your question, the bus wires are hidden in trenches carved thru the underbed foam. I had to jump thru some hoops in order to make it all happen, despite the constraints (the major one being my ignorance, esp of electricals and wiring). I wired each run, each block with feeders and soldered to 12 gauge (stiff) wire and then laid the tracks - the other way around. But this way, my trenches were very accurate and I did minimum hot work on foam. Its been slow going, as I have been learning as I go and improvizing everywhere.
I really found those Humpyard purveyance throws interesting - just like the real thing. I shall see if I can buy some.
I hope to stick up some pics soon.
Thanks a million, and regards,
@ John Lea,
Thank you for your detailed reply! I am exploring tortoises, but unfortunately, under table or beside table options are out for me. I shall keep that as an option for another layout in the future. I will be using the bi-polar LEDs with some of the switches which have Atlas motors.
Thanks again,
Tortoises can be mounted other then under table as typically done, I have several that are mounted to the side and several that are mounted on the top of the bench work and covered by small structures.
You may want to check out Tam Valley Depot the owner/electronic genesis Duncan Mcree employs r/c servos as switch machines one is pictured here as an under-table mount but I'm sure using a little creativity you can find a way to mount them on top of the surface
http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/home.html
You may also want to consider, the mechanical option such as Humpyard Purveyance
Howard makes a nice piece of equipment that may work very well for your application. A quality product and one of these days I hope to get around to installing mine.
You mentioned that you are building directly on top of your storage cabinets for your trains, how do you plan on running buss wires and feeder drops down to the dcc buss? Even if your running straight DC it's still a difficult way to build a layout. Just out of curiosity sakes how big of a layout are you talking here?
Hi there Soutrix. Just a thought. Our club had a double shinara code 83 x-o and we replaced it with two
single x-o's. You may find a problem going from 83 to 100 at the x-o. You can use a turbo-switch motor
a bit noisey, but the work just fine and are a lower profile than a torts. switch motor. You can hide it in a
building or in the bushes, where the trainmasters use to hide,. I've used a bunch of these
motors. The wireing is different that the torts, but work very well. I'll look around for some brand names
and let you know, if you like. I've also wired the bi-polor LED's to them for the direction of the switch points.
O.K. Hope that helps a little.
Plan, build and enjoy.
John L.
You can use Tortoise motors: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/800-6000
Thanks - great picture. I am thinking more and more that I should just stop bothering with turnout motors and all the associated headaches and just use ground throws. Thanks again!
BTW, the Shinohara's are already insulated on each track, right? I don't need to do anything else in terms of wiring?
I like my Caboose Industries Ground Throws.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Hi everyone!
This is my first post and I am hopeful of getting some great advice!
After 2 years in prep, including a couple of trial layouts, I am putting together my first layout. My question is - I need to incorporate a Shinohara N/S double cross-over (code 83 - I am using Walthers transition track to connect to the rest of my pike, which is code 100). Unfortunately, the one I have doesn't have any motors. Which motors should I look for and where can I buy them? Any advice on wiring would be very welcome too.
Also, under-table motors are not an option, as I am building directly on top of my storage cabinets (for my trains). I would prefer side mounts.
If nothing works, what kind of ground throws can I use?
All the best to everyone - I look forward to hearing from you!