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Ashpit Modeling.

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  • Member since
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  • From: 4610 Metre's North of the Fortyninth on the left coast of Canada
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Ashpit Modeling.
Posted by BATMAN on Thursday, May 13, 2010 11:34 AM

 I want to model an ashpit like this one. I should be able to cut into my 2" foam and lower the track to below grade without much difficulty. The concrete under the rails it appears hastily done. How can I replicate this look? Can I smooth out the foam and paint it? Use Hydrocal or Styrene or something else?

 I have photo of another ashpit very similar to this one that shows the horizontal rails being supported by lengths of vertical rails. They appear to be welded together. Can I solder rails together or is there a glue I can use to get this welded look? Thanks for all suggestions and ideas.Smile

 

                                                             Brent

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

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  • From: Canada, eh?
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Posted by doctorwayne on Thursday, May 13, 2010 1:08 PM
It's too bad that your prototype didn't "cut into the foam" a little deeper - pit labourers would have had to lift the ash/cinders just to load that flatcar, and a gondola would present even more of a chore. For rough concrete, you should be able to get away with simply painting the foam with a suitable shade of water-based paint. You could also apply a thin coat of drywall mud before painting - this would be a way to make the support rails appear to be imbedded in the concrete. Rails, nickel silver or brass, will solder together easily if cleaned. I use fairly fine (#300 or #400) sandpaper for this purpose. Were I doing this, I'd lay out each rail and its supports flat on a sheet of 1/4" balsa, using straight pins to hold all of the parts in alignment. Starting at one end, apply flux to the first joint, then solder it together. Apply a wad of wet tissue or paper towel to that joint, then flux and solder the next. Move the wet tissue to that joint, flux, solder, and so on. For the cross ties, which on the prototype would likely be steel or iron, too, you could use PC board ties, but make sure to cut an insulating gap in the foil of each one. I'd pre-notch the tops of the support posts using a cut-off disc in my Dremel before assembling each rail and its posts, then trim the PC ties to length so that, when fitted into the pre-cut notches, your track would be properly gauged. To solder the PC ties in place, place wet tissue on all joints adjacent to the one on which you're working - the ones on either side on the rail being soldered, and the one at the opposite end of the tie which you're soldering, unless you've already gapped the foil. An easier way would be to assemble each rail and its supports, then add PC ties to the bottom of the rails at points between the supports. After all are in place and gapped, trim the ends of the ties flush with the outside edge of the base of the rails, then paint them the same weathered colour which you use for the rails. By the way, sorrry for the lack of spaces between paragraphs - it seems Safari doesn't like me to use them any more than it likes me to use smilies, underlining, or italics. Wayne
  • Member since
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  • From: Oreland PA
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Posted by UncBob on Thursday, May 13, 2010 2:14 PM

Here is a pic of the ash pit on the Strasburg Railroad across from the  RR Museum of PA


 

 

 

51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )

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  • From: Oreland PA
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Posted by UncBob on Thursday, May 13, 2010 2:45 PM

 Here is a pic of the ashpit that comes with the Walthers kit

 

 

51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )

ME&O

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Posted by Allegheny2-6-6-6 on Friday, May 14, 2010 10:23 PM

 I myself would use a coat of hydrocal over your foam, when almost dry or even when it's fully dry spritz it with wet water and drag a dry stiff bristle paint brush across it to simulate the concrete look.

Just my 2 cents worth, I spent the rest on trains. If you choked a Smurf what color would he turn?
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: 4610 Metre's North of the Fortyninth on the left coast of Canada
  • 9,352 posts
Posted by BATMAN on Monday, May 17, 2010 5:49 PM

 Thanks for the tips guys.

Wayne. I think I will make the cut a little deeper. Don't want my "Shovel technicians" working too hard. Union problems are to be avoided. I was thinking if I have to cut deeper than 2" I can just glue more foam underneath. Wonderful stuff that foam.Smile Also thanks for the soldering tips. I may give it a try tomorrow. We are in for a week of rain.Cool

  I have the same spacing problems when I use Safari. I always hit the return twice for two spaces and it comes out as a single space in the post.

 

                                                           Brent

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • 127 posts
Posted by Flynn on Tuesday, May 18, 2010 7:43 PM

Diamond scale sells an ashpit similar to the one you've posted a picture of.

http://www.diamond-scale.com/products__engine_service_pits_platforms.htm

It may be something you'd be interested in.

 

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    September 2007
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Posted by ratled on Tuesday, May 18, 2010 9:27 PM

Paul Scoles did a GREAT job showing you step by step on his whole service area including his ash pit.   A must see for someone looking who really wants use it as LDE.  I think it was on vol 2 but it might be on vol 1.

http://www.paulscoles.com/

ratled

Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”

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