Weathering tracks

[BearCat Lines]

I would like to start weathering my tracks, but investing on an air-bruch at this time is not posibble.

Can I accomplish a good look using spary cans?

[selector]

Yes, but not without masking and/or a wasteful job of it.  The nozzles on spray cans are for a shotgun application.  (I guess no one said you can't stack several lengths of flex and spray away...)

I did it all by hand using a $0.20 artist's brush and Floquil "Rust" and PolyScale's "Railroad Tie Brown".

-Crandell

[farrellaa]

Are your tracks already fastened to the roadbed or are they still in seperate pieces? A spray can will work if not already mounted but if they are mounted you can use the Floqui Paint Pens with rust , rail brown and tie brown. They work great and are very easy to control. You could use a brush to paint a wash along the ties and ballast between the rails and also outside the rails. I am weathering my track like this; after it has all been laid.

good luck.

bob

[St Francis Consolidated RR]

     You're better off with a paint brush.

[St Francis Consolidated RR]

selector

I did it all by hand using a $0.20 artist's brush and Floquil "Rust" and PolyScale's "Railroad Tie Brown".

 

 

           Beautiful, perfect color and variation.

           And you're doing a good job as a moderator, too, by the way.

[jwhitten]

St Francis Consolidated RR

selector

I did it all by hand using a $0.20 artist's brush and Floquil "Rust" and PolyScale's "Railroad Tie Brown".

 

 

           Beautiful, perfect color and variation.

           And you're doing a good job as a moderator, too, by the way.

 

 

I absolutely concur, on both points.

 

John

[tugboat95]

 I prefer the Floquil paint pens.  Very easy to use and look great.  I did all of my ties in one night and a few days later I went back and did all of the rails.  Clean up was next to nothing and the pens fit perfectly on HO rails.  Just be careful to keep the top of the rails clean.  A rag will do this nicely right after applying the paint.

[selector]

 Gee, thanks, fellers..!

I also would like to emphasize that you will save yourself some considerable aggravation if you go over the tops of your rails with a clean rag about every minute, and no longer!  The Floquil 'Rust', particularly, was very quick and unforgiving once it set up...it was a lot more work getting it off if I forgot and let three or more minutes go by.  Not sure about the pens, but I'd go with the advice above.  Good point.

Oh, and no one says you have to paint both sides of all the rails.  Some of it just won't ever be seen, so why go to all the trouble?  At least, that was my opinion...it's your world.

-Crandell

[Allegheny2-6-6-6]

 Please tel me your track is not ballasted as was my friends when he asked me if I would bring over my airbrush and compressor to spray/weather his.

Yes you most certainly can use rattle cans and it's no big deal, make yourself a masking shield out of anything a piece of shirt cardboard, styrene Plexiglas etc. you can spray the rails first with what ever color u choose and then use the shield when you want to spray the ties. I myself just spray everything with either roof brown or railroad tie brown. after ballasting and sprinkling some tempra paint in so as to simulate oil streaks and throw i some coal dust after ballasting and it weathers up nicely. I will use the paint pens here and there to simulate freshly installed tie and on occasion have used a rust color on the rails to set them out form the ties.

[markpierce]

Allegheny2-6-6-6

 Please tel me your track is not ballasted ...

Yeah, you don't want ballast the same colors as rail and ties.

 

 

(Sammy, how many types of ballast rock have we got here?)

I love it! 

Mark

[markpierce]

markpierce

(Sammy, how many types of ballast rock have we got here?)

Kaibab limestone from the trestle and beyond.  On this side of the trestle, it's a mixture of KL and mostly light  gray ballast rock like one finds in the hobby shop.  I recommend visiting Arizona Rock and Minerals website for examples/sources.

 

[doctorwayne]

My vote is for the paintbrush or marker method. I used a fairly stiff 1/2" brush to apply PollyScale paint to the rails: the wider brush holds more paint and the stiff bristles make it easy to work the paint around the details, such as spikes and tieplates, moulded on the ties. If you already have structures or scenery in place, there's no need to mask when using a brush. I generally do 10' or 15' of track, then wipe the railtops with a dry rag - the dry, but not yet cured paint will come off easily. I like to let the paint fully harden, for about 24 hours, before running trains. Another advantage to the brush or marker method is that you can do a bit of the work any time that you have a few minutes available, as clean-up is quick and easy. I paint both sides of both rails, even though my layout is an around-the-room style. this allows me to take pictures both from the normal viewing angle... ...and, by placing the camera on the layout, from the normally unseen side, with no unsightly shiny track: Wayne

[ef3 yellowjacket]

As previously mentioned, use a Floquil applicator.  One of the worst approaches is to spray track already on the layout.  Using a brush by hand to do both the rail and ties, is a much better approach (in my opinion). 

On the "close-up" parts of the layout, I am using Jack Parkeer's Central Valley tie system.  This nifty product comes in bot hstraight and turnout configurations, as well as (in the turnout kits) the frog, etc fittings.  As they say, though; patience is a virgin...

Rich

[ChevelleSSguy]

I was going to suggest using a light oil wiped mostly off the tops of the rails so when you paint the track. The paint wont do a very good job of sticking to the tops of the rail because of the film of oil.