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Slot cars on a layout? How to?

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Posted by wjstix on Monday, January 4, 2016 12:04 PM

If you're going to do both, I'd try to do it in a way that makes sense scenically. I think trying to have the roadway look like a city street, with race cars zipping across the railroad tracks at 200 mph doesn't seem that realistic.

I'd try doing a model of a race car track separate from the railroad tracks - could be a simple oval track, or more complicated. You could have seating for spectators, sort of like a stadium - maybe even have a side track / station for commuter trains taking patrons to and from the racetrack. Even on a smallish layout, like an HO 4'x8', you could have trains running on the outside on 18-22"R curves, with the racetrack with it's sharp curves inside of that.

Stix
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Posted by Westbound on Saturday, January 2, 2016 10:02 PM

New Member here, love the story about donating the slotcar layout to a friend who was laid off to give to his 3 Sons for Christmas ! 

I have a 10 by 12 upstairs room I would like to house a HO Scale layout and my old slot car set.  Have a original RR crossing, Aurora turnouts for service roads, etc.  Like to incorporate DCC for the trains, and automate the RR crossing, any thoughts as to the style of layout ? 

Considering either a L shaped shelf system w/ a loop @ ea. end or a layout I could walk into, w/ a 24" aisle, and 12" shelves down either side to be completely surrounded by the layout.  Could even create a overhead arch and connect backdrops overhead.

Thoughts ?

 

Kent.

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Posted by Medina1128 on Saturday, July 21, 2012 12:34 PM

willy6

The HO Aurora "Model Motoring" sets were awesome. The cars and trucks were highly detailed. They had a catalog/flyer how to combine trains and slot cars. I wanted to do it but didn't have the money then. I remember when they came out with the Ford Mustang, every kid on the block wanted to first to own one. If memory serves me right, those little slot cars were about $4.00 each which was alot for a 11 year old...what memories.........................

I think every kid that had an Aurora Model Motoring set either had a Mustang, a Camaro or a Corvette. There really wasn't much you could do to "hop them up" back then with that pancake motor and spur gears. The later G+ cars would scream, but that's hardly prototypical, and they came in really cool bodies; Ford GT40, Chapparal, Cheetahs. 

I think that instead of trying to incorporate slot cars into your train layout, that you build him a separate slot car layout, if you have the space. I made one on a 4'x8' sheet of plywood, complete with roll-out grass, buildings under construction. I had a blast with it until a layoff at our plant and one of my coworkers who got laid off had no money to spend on his 3 boys for Christmas. I gave it to him to give to his boys, and they LOVED it.

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Posted by mobilman44 on Thursday, July 19, 2012 10:34 PM

Hi!

Back in the mid '60s when slot cars came out, a few of my friends tried their darndest to incorporate them with HO trains.  They just couldn't get crossings to work, leaving the racetrack totally separate of the rails.  The end result was toylike, and we ended up separating them as they just didn't go together properly.

Well, that was about 45 years ago and it appears like nothing really has changed.   But it would be sooo cool if you guys could pull it off.

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

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Posted by lifeontheranch on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 2:55 PM

Just routered into the ply. Gray is latex house paint. Tires eventually left very convincing black smudges in the corners. I forget the exact wire size, too many years ago. Used wire that you had to fight to force into the 1/16" groove. I remember it was very labor intensive to press all the wire. Stayed put pretty good for the two years the layout saw service. Tore it down because wanted banked turns. Went back to plastic track.

Problem with low speed operation of slot cars is the gearing. Ring gear max diameter limited by tire diameter. If I recall correctly, 32 tooth ring and 7 tooth pinion were the lowest possible ratio. Even then cars move fast by the time you reach start voltage of motors. Maybe a DCC decoder would overcome the issue. Didn't have decoders back in my slot car days.

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Posted by ruderunner on Wednesday, July 18, 2012 2:26 PM

Wow this is getting some airtime again. I've got the slot car idea on the back burner for now, still working on getting the trains running.

Alan, impressive.  Did you just router into the ply or is that gray something other than paint?  Mig wire huh, what size?  Non flux core im betting.

As for speed, well you can always dial down the power pack, though that is kinda not what I'm looking for, slow trains/fast cars ya know.  But for the sake of animation running the slots fairly slow (as slow as a slot can go anyway) adds a little variety.

Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction

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Posted by lifeontheranch on Tuesday, July 17, 2012 7:30 PM

I was way into slot cars years ago. Here is a pick of my last layout before moving to trains.

And another picture showing my homemade layout during construction. You can make your own track if you really need to although production plastic track is far easier and more reliable. The grooves were cut with a router. High nickel content MIG wire was rolled into the rail cuts using a screen spline tool. Worked pretty dang good. Nice not having any joints.

Be careful. At the velocity slot cars can exit the track they will do some serious damage to model scenery.

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Posted by joe323 on Monday, July 9, 2012 1:29 PM

Walthers build a simple layout to demonstrate their product.  It was in the showroom a couple of years back when I visited it.  This is an interesting thread 

Joe Staten Island West 

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Posted by EM-1 on Sunday, July 8, 2012 11:16 PM

Not something I'd do now, although when the sets came out with crossings to integrate slot with train, I wished I  had the money.

Don't have any suggestions or ideas that haven't been mentioned here already.

Being able to get the wife and kid(s) involved in family activity?  Priceless.  Hope you can come to a workable solution.  And if purists object?  Tell 'em to go play in highway traffic.  Blindfolded!

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Posted by Stourbridge Lion on Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:56 PM

Brainslks - Welcome to trains.com! Cowboy

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Posted by Brainslks on Sunday, July 8, 2012 7:39 PM

ruderunner

OK I know this will irk a lot of folks but I'm thinking of adding slot cars to my HO layout.  Reasons being: my kid likes em better than trains and I'd like to find somthing we can do together. Thw wife and I like slot cars too and there's not enough room in the basement for 2 layouts.

I see some pros and cons so I'll start with that.  Pros:  varies the action on the layout, sometime I just don't want to play with slow trains,  adds operational realities; like keeping croosings clear for road traffic (let the slot cars run as drones) or the other way when racing cars letthe trains run as drones. Building scenery just once, less benchwork needed for one layout.  I'd be building roads anyway so why not make em functional.

Cons: extra comlexity in construction especially grade crossings, noone makes actual 1/87th slot cars, vehicle path will be permanently set in stone since noone makes turnouts for slot cars, I'll probably have to make the entire roadway from scratch since I don't think the premade sections offer enough variation to accomodate the layout. 

I don't think the electronics would be too hard to do, I could keep the slot cars DC though it appears that some N scale decoders could fit into a slot car meaning they can run off the same power bus.  I'm aware that slot cars typically run at higher voltage than trains but they should run plenty fast still.

I'm not looking for opions on why or why not but rather how or how not.  I believe that there must be some other modelers who have an affection for slot cars and maybe even some who'vebuilt what I'm thinking of.  Besides Faller makes it's street system and vehicles which isn't too far removed from slot cars. 

Anyone going to fess up?

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Posted by Mr Fixit on Sunday, May 9, 2010 3:16 PM

I think that making a proof of concept prototype out of styrene would be a good way to start given that you are familiar with working with it.

I suggested polypropylene sheets as they are cheaper than styrene given the estimated quantity of track required and are moisture resistant unlike Masonite. As for where to obtain the sheets I would suggest checking your local yellow pages for plastic suppliers. The poly is also more flexible than styrene for a given thickness which will make handling easier and means it will conform to your layout better.

I think that there will be a lot of interested people following your progress, myself included.

Mark

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Posted by ruderunner on Sunday, May 9, 2010 7:43 AM

Also why the reccomendation for polypropelene sheets?  What advantage does it have over masonite?  Where would I find it?

I need to get some styrene for building a prototype crossing since it would probably be easier to work with to do small details at the crossing.

I have to admit, this has been much better recievd than I thought.  Thanks guys. 

Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction

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Posted by ruderunner on Sunday, May 9, 2010 7:29 AM

Actually I was kicking around the proof of concept idea for the grade crossings and had an AH HA! moment.  As I was looking at my trains, slot cars, sections of rail and a premade grade crossing I realized that mr wheel flanges don't exted below the surface nearly as far as the slot car guide pins do.  So why couldn't I make a full slot through the rails with just a couple small notches for the flanges? 

This should handily solve the problem of the guide pins getting caught in the flangeways at a crossing and the trains shouldn't be bothered at all.  Probably make it from styrene.

Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction

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Posted by Mr Fixit on Saturday, May 8, 2010 7:52 AM

Neat idea!

I remember thinking through how to combine AFX with model trains as a teenager and at other times through the years. The stumbling block was always how to cross railway tracks at grade. Walthers/Life Like have solved the problemfor their system, unfortunately a view of their website today, revealed that the track crossing part is out of stock with an unknown re-release date. One positive was that you can view a photo of the part and also download a pdf of instructions which shows some more close ups to aid with custom making your own crossings.

As far as making your own track goes I would suggest using polypropylene sheets of the right thickness to suit the slot car guide pins which you can then rip down to make the various road widths with a reinforcing sheet under. For the curves and other custom locations you could then rout the guide chanels using either a 1/4 inch router or a Dremel router with a 3mm or 1/8th bit [variable speed would also be very handy] and a tremel beam or guide bush set up to form the curved guide channel for the slot cars as well as the inside and outside edges of the roadway.

I would also suggest making a proof of concept module to work out the bugs in the system as well as to sharpen your skillset before making the layout roadway.

Mark

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Posted by ruderunner on Saturday, May 8, 2010 7:15 AM

Speed control is likely to be an issue mainly due to power pickup.  Slots are worse than an 0-4-0t when it come to gaps in track.  That's why for starters I'll run DC power for the slots as it's more forgiving.  But I'd love to be able to run em off my dcc system which of course allows speed matching, programable power curves, potential BEMF and wireless control among other goodies.

So what are tricks for overcoming poor power pickup and it's effects on DCC operation?  I figure tricks for small locos would be appropriate for this as well. The biggest killers are going to be the gaps at road/rail crossings as I'm figuring about an 1/8th" gap on each side of the rails in order to prevent shorting anything. Do capacitors help?

It seems like adding DCC to a slot car wouldn't be too difficult as the frames are plastic so I just ned to insulate the pickup shoes from the motor and there's usually plenty of space in a shell to place the decoder, a small one anyways.  I wouldn't need anyhting fancy either, motor only would be adequate.

Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction

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Posted by MRTerry on Friday, May 7, 2010 9:03 AM

I use the Faller system and am very satisfied with it:http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=3688 However, you don't really drive the cars unless you fit them with a control system like DCCar.

If you want to use slot cars on an HO layout, 1960s vintage Aurora Thunderjets are closer to HO scale than the later models are. I don't know whether you could get better speed control with them if you used a contemporary power pack with pulse width modulation, but you might be able to, since the T-jets use a 3-pole DC motor.

Good luck, and thanks for reading MR!

Terry

 

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Posted by Jazman49 on Friday, May 7, 2010 7:11 AM

I am 60 yrs old and I have a HO train/HO slot car layout. My grandkids enjoy them and so do I. Each are controlled separately as I purchased the lifelike train/car intersection. Even though the scales do not match, I could cover up the car track with temporary track for a more realistic look with scale appropriate cars. The main focus for me is to have fun with the kids. Purists can make their layouts for adults only. Having a "kid's heart" is more to my liking.

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Posted by ruderunner on Friday, May 7, 2010 6:13 AM

Slot car turnouts huh?  You say you made one?  Was it a major project?  Maybe I'll have to check Fleabay to see what these are about...

Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction

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Posted by KidatHeart06 on Thursday, May 6, 2010 6:45 PM

 Just a quick reply, Aurora did make turnouts for Slot Cars. You can still find them on ebay I even figured out a way to automate them. Never tried it on a layout, but I did make a protoype and it worked fine. George

Modeling the B&O in the 50-60's

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Posted by ruderunner on Thursday, May 6, 2010 6:21 AM

Yeah some slot car stuff can get pricey but compare a decent HO slot car at $15-$20 versus a mega cheap loco for $25 or a good loco for $60.  One thing that surprises me on slot cars is how much the track costs, about $5/foot versus HO code 100 at less than $1/foot though specialty track for slots doesn't cost too much more unlike specilty rails.

I was hoping to do some tinkering with this over the weekend but it looks like I'll be stuck working. bummer. 

Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction

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Posted by Allegheny2-6-6-6 on Wednesday, May 5, 2010 11:13 PM

 Oh I agree whole heatedly that slot cars are way cool. We have HO slot cars well me and my 7 year old well ok they were my Christmas present but we share. I have looked up some of the cars on line and man a lot of way cool stuff and brother if you thought trains were expensive them little cars run a close second. Hey it's all supposed to be fun and enjoyable even if your a rivet counter. It's all about what works for u.

Just my 2 cents worth, I spent the rest on trains. If you choked a Smurf what color would he turn?
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Posted by ruderunner on Wednesday, May 5, 2010 6:30 AM

Yeah I realize that the kids will have some fun doing a "Dirty Mary, Crazy Larry"  but I have to admit I might do it too!  Especially if I get a yellow Charger...

Family fun is what this is all about.

As for realism going out the window, IDK how bad it would be.  Sure the cars would be out of proportion and the slot down the road takes away some but, so do radii under 60" and selctive compression etc that is in use on model RR.  BTW next time you're at the LHS check out the slot car mags, they have some impressive scenery mostly done with mrr kits and supplies.  Even if slots aren't your cup of tea the do have some scratch building/detailing articles that can be useful on a layout.

That said I think I have some shopping to do for this weekend and a little project to work on

Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction

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Posted by Allegheny2-6-6-6 on Wednesday, May 5, 2010 1:23 AM

 If your looking at it strictly from the family fun perspective then I say sure why not go for it. The more fun you can have as a family the better in my book but. if your looking at it form the model railroaders point of view there is nothing that could make your model railroad look less realistic possibly a close second would be floating a model boat in some real water. Seen it done and man was it bad....lol. It's your railroad so do with it what you like thats the bottom line but how "real" can it look with that slot running down the middle of the road?

Just my 2 cents worth, I spent the rest on trains. If you choked a Smurf what color would he turn?
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Posted by BC Don on Tuesday, May 4, 2010 3:52 PM

   1) Enjoy.

   2) The kids are just gonna wait for a train at a crossing and "nail" it :).  I remember having more fun crashing trains and slot cars than running them when I was a kid.  Heck I remember the slot cars (or were they?), anyway the "smashem up derby set" where the cars would hit each other and explode apart because the body parts were all held together under spring tension until the "hit" at which point everything was released.

   3) Enjoy.

 

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Posted by ruderunner on Tuesday, May 4, 2010 6:28 AM

I'm pretty much resigned to scratchbuilding the road.  The premade sections are just too limiting and would require significantly wider benchwork than I want.  Just for the record the planned layout will be 24" shelf around the wallsand peninsula nolix making 2 levels and an approximate 300' mainline run.  So I'm looking at the potential for 600' of slot track if I make a continuous loop.

Either way thats a lot of track to acquire premade.

The Faller system is interesting but has a few drawbacks for me: cost ouch, slow vehicles without ability to race, mostly (exclusivly?) German prototypes.  The automation is neat though.

I have an abundance of ho trainset power packs so I could use one for each "lane" of road which gives the option of changing direction of travel and set and forget speed control. They would be a bit awkward for racing though and there won't be one place wher a driver can stand and watch the entire track.  I'll have to do some sort of wireless DC cab or maybe block control.  Wireless DCC would be best for this as it has those abilities already.

As far as my proposed construction methods, it sounds like I've got confirmations that this will work.  How problematic was it?  Any "gotchas"?

Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction

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Posted by YoHo1975 on Monday, May 3, 2010 6:23 PM
The old Tyco USA1 trucks are pretty close to HO scale. Much closer than slot cars for the same track. I'm thinking if you wanted to go crazy with this, you could probably convert slot car frames to have HO sized vehicles on them. You could also go really crazy and use Z or N scale can motors to improve slow speed performance of the cars.
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Posted by tgindy on Monday, May 3, 2010 4:42 PM

Space  ...the final frontier  ...oops  ...different subject.

Actually, you must have the layout space, for trains and/or slot cars to do it right.  For example, how much space alone, is required to satisfy the minimum radius for R-T-R 90-degree turns & meaningful roadways, without scratchbuilding the slot car system?

Back in the day, I had an HO Scale layout, and a separate 1/32 slot car layout, even properly banked curves with the flexible masonite-type roadway, plus the basement space to handle it all.

Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956

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Posted by HHPATH56 on Monday, May 3, 2010 7:43 AM
"Besides, Faller makes it's street system and vehicles which isn't too far removed from slot cars." If you are interested in the Faller Car System, type in "EuroRailHobbies". Click on the FALLER icon, I happen to be incorporating old slot car track with Faller Car System HO scale cars, trucks, and bus, in a 35 ft. dogbone, with loops at each end, so that the vehicles ride, (magnetically directed ) on a two-way system. The wire is embedded, in the plaster filled slot. The vehicles have a magnetized lever below, which follows the wire. Each vehicle costs $139-$169, which makes a fleet of vehicles, "rather expensive"!!!! Perhaps, you would prefer to use slot cars, and have the roadway run under and over the rail tracks. The slot car tracks can be bent slightly with dry wall screws applied into plywood base. It is possible to modify curves, to make a reverse loop. I wired all my old slot car track with jumpers, when I was using the slot cars. Bob Hahn
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Monday, May 3, 2010 6:59 AM

Another option is the Faller Car System.  The cars are battery-powered (rechargeable) and operate at a constant speed, but you control their path with wires buried in the "pavement."  They do have turnouts, and they can be set up to stop at crossings, or even for traffic lights.  They are basically for continuous-running and display.  They're not "race cars."

The drawback is the high cost, but for those interested in integrating cars and trains in HO or N, it's an interesting possibility.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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