Here are some progress photos:
I'm planning something along these lines too... a little longer, but similar. I started a thread looking for ideas as well. I'll be watching your progress!
nw_fan Couple quick thoughts as a late-comer to your thread. 1.Use an office chair to roll under your layout. You will find it much easier to duck under. 2. Before you get too far with track work, think about building an additional staging (or fully working) yard on a separate benchwork on wheels. I promise you can make it work, and it will add so much to your operational abilities. Let's face it, you currently have just enough space to run a few trains around in circles and switch some industries (which is more than I have currently, and I am going through withdrawals after having a 20x40 double decked layout at my last house) so I am not disparaging your plan. Your room seems to be open enough that you can figure something out to make this work. If you get creative, you could probably make a yard that has legs that fold on the bottom 6 inches, so that when you fold the bottom of the legs, it lets wheels touch the ground, and it rolls underneath your existing layout. 3. Build a backdrop. Windows and paneling behind your layout make it look like a toy train layout. Splurge, if you can afford it, and get a photo realistic backdrop. It will make even sub-standard scenery look pretty good. There are quite a few options, and even worst case scenario, you could paint your backdrop a hazy light blue, and add a better backdrop later.
Couple quick thoughts as a late-comer to your thread.
1.Use an office chair to roll under your layout. You will find it much easier to duck under.
2. Before you get too far with track work, think about building an additional staging (or fully working) yard on a separate benchwork on wheels. I promise you can make it work, and it will add so much to your operational abilities. Let's face it, you currently have just enough space to run a few trains around in circles and switch some industries (which is more than I have currently, and I am going through withdrawals after having a 20x40 double decked layout at my last house) so I am not disparaging your plan. Your room seems to be open enough that you can figure something out to make this work. If you get creative, you could probably make a yard that has legs that fold on the bottom 6 inches, so that when you fold the bottom of the legs, it lets wheels touch the ground, and it rolls underneath your existing layout.
3. Build a backdrop. Windows and paneling behind your layout make it look like a toy train layout. Splurge, if you can afford it, and get a photo realistic backdrop. It will make even sub-standard scenery look pretty good. There are quite a few options, and even worst case scenario, you could paint your backdrop a hazy light blue, and add a better backdrop later.
Hi, thanks for the reply. off one of the corners, I can go another foot before I hit the maximum reach of the open closet door. I told my wife I would go out any further, but I may be able to sneak it in later, so, on my track plan, I put my "road to nowhere" there. I also added a modest yard inside the oval. I think I am happy with what I have planned.
I know I am basically going to be watching trains go around in an oval, but it is 2 ovals, and they are going to be my ovals, andI am excited. I really hope that this 1st layout will allow me to experiment and learn more about what I am sure will be a life long hobby. I plan on trying lots of different scenery techniques and I also will be putting up a back drop, I promise!
I would consider building a bit higher. I am just working out the details for my layout and will start with a height of 54 inches. The duck under entry for my layout room will be accessed by sitting on a mechanics stool on wheels and rolling under. By doing this with my space I will have room for 30 inch minimum mainline and branch radius as well as good access for under the layout staging. I will also be using dc mrc control master 20 packs. Good luck with everything.
The realignment pins are a good idea.
I checked your link and our bench work is very similar...except I used 2 1"x4" pieces for each leg, I made them into an "L". I thought about the 2"x2" legs, and really feel the way I did it gives more support and it makes it easier to mount things to as well, you have a nice 3.5" face to work with. When I put in my supports, or go to build shelves for storage, it will come in handy.
Great looking benchwork. You may want to add some alignment pins if you think you'll will ever expand your layout or move it. They make reassembly easier. Have a look at my train page I think I cover the aspect of modular railroading well. I too am planning a railroad in a 8' x 10' shed and it resembles your benchwork very closely.
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
My Train Page My Photobucket Page My YouTube Channel
If you remember, I was saying I have a bunch of 48" lengths? I had to buy more fir, so I have a lot of 48" pieces, I plan on doing some additional supports. I would like to add a shelf as well under one side.
It isn't 100% completed yet. I have to finish drilling the holes for wiring, and adding supports. I didnt put any legs onth e 1' and 1.5' wide sections, I may put additional support, like some angle iron type of thing...like I said, it holds me up no problem.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for posting the pictures. A picture sometimes tells more than a thousand words can do...
I have noticed the absence of braces to support the legs - you may want to add them for extra strength and stability.
The front, lower window is about 100 years old...painted shut. the other, higher up window, is brand new, and I can access that one to open or close. In the spring is the only time we really opened it though, my wife starts our garden in ther, or she did. But, that is a good question, it made me think about it...I will be painting and doing other things that have a vapor to them...opening the door that leads to the outside, and that side window will help ventilate.
I want to make the more narrow section 18"...just like the front section. I was going to to that, but I thought the 18" section on the front like that would give me a great spot for scenery. the duck under really isnt that bad at 52" high. I think that side will really be a focal point, so it is important to me that be wide.
Can you swap the rear and front sections?
That way the duck under won't be as wide
51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )
ME&O
Thanks for the pics
Bench work looks good
Are you going to be able to access the windows ?
Photos as requested. I made the legs 52". I thought that to be a comfortable working height for me. The back corner is going to be an issue at that height, but the bench work is strong enough to support me while i work in that corner. I am also able to easily get in and out from underneath. All in all, I am happy with the results. I do, however, think I will need to add about 6 more inches to the 1'x3' section that runs alont the rear of the layout, but the 9 square feet in the middle might be nice the larger phases of construction. I antcicapte track height to be between 52" and 56". I am going to check out the ceiling tile and its price after work today. Hopefully I can stack a few of those as my base, and then stack them for scenery effects and to raise my road bed so i can model down. I appreciate any and all feedback. Sorry for the lower quality cell phone pictures, I took higher quality photos, but I left the camera at home.
Do we want to see pictures? YES !!!
We are always happy to participate in someoneยดs progress - after all, sharing is part of the fun!
Thanks everyone for the help. My bench work is mostly complete. I was able to sit in the center, sip a beer and day dream for awhile. I could post photos, but I am not sure ot the protocol, or if there is any interest. If desired, I can post some photos.
I was ble to drill some holes for the wires that will come some day too. I will check out that ceiling tile as well. thanks again, and let me know if you would you would like to see photos.
NorthCoast RRThis is jumping ahead, but I live in a rural area, and I can not find a dealer less then 90 miles away who sell either pink or blue insulation material. Are there any alternatives?
Not sure exactly how you built your modules, but gray ceiling tiles might work as a substitute for the foam, assuming you can find them any easier.
There is an article in MRP 2010 where modeler Jim Six used this material exclusively for his roadbed and scenery element, I believe. His is a midwest theme, so the scenery was more rolling than maybe what you're planning, but stacking the tiles should provide similar results as foam.
Also, when stacked, the exposed sides of the tiles tend to look like rock cuts, moreso than foam does.
- Douglas
Oh, I am going to experiment, totally. The house was built along time ago, and the room i am in is not really to code, so I am going to mount some scrap 1"x4" to the wall at varying heights. run my level off it to see how much the height changes from the wall to the middle of the room. Last night, after I completed the assemply of the sections, I played around with a few heights, using my tape only...it was getting a little late, so I didnt really get that into it. This afternoon, I will have a height and a bunch of legs.
I look forward to completing this part of the project, I will post my completed product for you to see and hopefully compliment.
NorthCoast RRI am just having a hard time thinking 2 inches will play that much of a difference, given the money I will save on materials.
I'm big on experimenting with these kind of theoretical ideas. Before you cut those 2x2s, just clamp the benchwork to them at 48", then 50", then 52", etc. and see what the difference is for yourself. Use some shoe boxes to stand in for structures - should give you a pretty good idea of what the viewing angles will be
Ok, I understand what you are saying. I will try it out before I cut any more wood. I would like to have a comfortable level to work at too. I figured chest height would be good for that...It will be over 48", I will tell you what I decided on and post photos of my results. Thanks for your input.
You can always use a small stool for the shorties watching your layout
Even with my layout at at 52 inches I find myself stooping a little to get a better viewing point
How much more will it cost putting extensions on your 48 legs
My wife is 5'1", so, if I make it 50", she will have no problem taking pictures from a great vantage point!
I do want to 'experiment' with scenery types and methods, being this is my first layout, I think around mid chest level would be great, and I plan on raising all track above deck level so i can make it as realistic as possible. I am just having a hard time thinking 2 inches will play that much of a difference, given the money I will save on materials.
Later, if it is not high enough, I can add to the legs, or just construct new legs.
Thank you all for your opinions and advice. I look forward to implementaion. I Hope to post some photos of my bench work if not this evening, then tomorrow.
At 6' 5"
the layout will be too low for your eye level
Mine is at 52 and I am 6'
My wife is 5'3" and she loves the height for watching
If I was it doing it over I would have gone 56"
Find A high piece of furniture and put an engine on it and then use books etc to raise it to different heights
I bet you will like the higher numbers
I am 6 ft tall and my layout stands on 48 inch legs. I wish it was a few inches taller, only because I get too much of a "bird's eye view" of the layout, rather than a more horizontal view. You want it low enough to be able to reach to the back of your modules, but high enough to give you a more realistic view of things. If you want the wife or guests to have a good view, maybe that s/b a consideration as well.
You also mentioned you wanted to experiment with scenery. It would be easier to create below the track scenery if one of the modules was sitting on legs that were 6 inches shorter than the others. You could use risers on that module to keep the track level while having the ability to try some scenery below the track.
Why is 48" too low? Is it because the layout won't look as good? Or is it because of the duck under aspect?
I have no physical limitations making the duck under in any way prohibitive. I am seriously concerned with how my layout will look.
I am basing my decision of layout height based soley on aesthetics.
At 60 inches you can go duck under with no problem
I would NOT go 48
I am 6 ft tall and have mine at 52 inches
I am 73 and use the duck under with no problems
Mine is 6 1/2 by 9 1/2 around the walls
My center is 43 inches but you could go 36 inches
Thanks again for all of your help.
I think i will be going with 48" legs...THat should be high enough up off the ground, and I still have a bunch 8' pieces of 1"x4" laying around...so it makes some economic sense as well.
I was hoping to make the layout on the light weight side, and I though the insulation board we be a good option. Closest dealer is 90 miles away....not even sure on the price either...
Anyway...it is going to be tough to work knowing my future model is sitting on the floor of my mud room wiating for me to add on some legs!
NorthCoast RRAny suggestions on height level?
For a single level layout run by a single person - a pretty good compromise is about mid-chest/elbow joint height for that person.
I.e. layout track level somewhere around the range of 42" - 52" off the floor for a layout to be operated by a 6 foot tall man.
High enough for not having to stoop too badly to get under the layout, high enough for a mostly side view angle into scenes (rather than the helicopter pilot view), low enough for good reach far into the layout.
Also remember that the bottom of your layout typically will be 3-4" lower than the track level, and that's the level your head will have to go under while ducking under things.
Smile, Stein
The higher up you can build your layout, the better it will look while operating it - you get the feeling of being the engineer, especially when your loco is equipped with sound.
I am 6ยด5" and I have established a height of 60" for my planned layout, for which I will be using the old-fashioned cork roadbed over plywood method, as Styrofoam is too expensive where I live.