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Fold-Down 4 x 8 board

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: US
  • 12 posts
Fold-Down 4 x 8 board
Posted by moorep2 on Sunday, June 13, 2004 5:17 PM
I would like to put an existing 4x8 homosote board framed in pine in my garage (long side against the wall). and at about 50 inch height off the floor

What I am looking for is some way to fold the board up against the wall when necessay -some sort of hinge system with either folding legs or chain and hook support on the portion away from the wall.

Can anyone suggest a hinge type or a good way to do this. Anyone know of any sites or info out there that would help with this. My building skills are not the greatest. Thanks much
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, June 13, 2004 5:42 PM
I would consider some simple 5" or 6" T-hinges to fold the layout down towards the floor and to hold it in place. Make sure the hinge screws hit studs in the wall and not just wall board. To support it during operation, I'd build simple folding saw horses to the proper height. This is quick & easy and gives you a solid base. Folding legs or a chain support system might give you a wobbly layout. (Good if you're modeling earthquake-prone areas.)

Wayne
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: US
  • 12 posts
Posted by moorep2 on Sunday, June 13, 2004 6:11 PM
Thanks very much. I agree with the wobblyness issue and will proceed the way you suggested
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Metro East St. Louis
  • 5,743 posts
Posted by simon1966 on Sunday, June 13, 2004 7:56 PM
Many years ago, I did this for a 4x8 layout mounted to the wall above my bed. It was designed to fold up and hooked into place with hook and eye bolts. If i were to do this again mounted to a stud frame wall, I would first mount an 8' long 2x4 horizontally to the wall, so that it could be attatched to several studs. The hinges of the the folding surface would be mounted to the 2x4. This would allow you to place longer (stronger) hinges to the table. You wont get much of a hinge into the 2" side of a stud in the wall and it would be easy to just catch the edge of a stud.

One final thing to be careful of. Many garages have the electric panel, so make sure you are not screwing into wires inside the wall!!

Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 18, 2004 8:31 AM
I have recently developed a cabinet for a 4 by 8 model train layout that uses Murphy Bed hardware. The cabinet is furniture grade in a variety of finishes. When it is folded, it cannot be distinguished from other fine furniture in a living room. All scenery and track are securely attached and the electronics may be DC or DCC or a combination of the two.

We are developing these for sale. The quality of the layout ranges from unfinished to museum quality. The control panel is in a drawer in the front edge of the layout. There is ample storage in four large drawers and four storage sections behind doors.

If you would like to receive pictures of this layout, please e-mail me. The layout is from the Atlas book and is listed as Atlas HO 25.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, June 19, 2004 11:18 AM
GOOD MORNING:

You'd be much better off if you build a spacer 8' long and about 12" wide to get the layout away from the wall and let the layout lift up. This gives the top of the layout protection from little hands and being hit or messed up by a passing person. It will limit your buildings to an 11" height. If you want more building height just make the spacer wider (out from the wall).

remember "SANTA FE ALL THE WAY"

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