Log Ponds...What works best?

[tnhllblly06]

I'm wondering which is the better product for filling a log pond---Enviro-tex or Woodland Scenics Realistic Water?  Particularly, which is the easiest method for adding in the logs.  And when?  Do you place numerous logs and pour around them, or do you pour first and sometime later place your logs?  Any help will be appreciated!

[cacole]

I've never done a log pond, but the logs would be partially sunk into the water so you would probably need to place the logs, fasten them down so they don't float to the top, and then pour the Realistic Water around them.  Trying to pour first and then place the logs would possibly cause the water to be uneven.

The main problem with pouring Realistic Water or Envirotex Lite is that they creep up the sides of everything, so your logs are going to wind up glossy because the water will saturate into them or creep up over the tops.

[ratled]

Magic Water.  It's like Envirotex but it doesn't creep up on everything like Envirotex.  Costs about the same too

http://www.unrealdetails.com/

ratled

[Oakhurst Railroad Engineer]

Definitely glue the logs down first and then pour, otherwise they will tend to float.  You can also use 1/2 logs (with a flat bottom). 

The most common mistake is to have the logs float too high in the water.  In reality, they tend to be nearly submerged, with only a portion above the surface. I see this error all the time, including in this month's Model Railroader (page 60).

I used the Woodland Scenics water, with many layers.  It does creep up the sides a bit to give a wet look, but otherwise works well. 

I am considering another product for a "final" top layer.  So, I'm watching this thread for suggestions.

Thanks,

Marty

 

[markpierce]

It's not only the water.  It's the details too.

 

 

 

 

Mark

[MPRR]

Lots and lots of bark floating should be present in the pond. Also a lot of floating branches and debris as shown in the previous pic. And the water should be far from blue.

[BigG]

 I'm still at the plywood stage, but am considering using one of those glass cutting-boards for the surface of my millpond. After I retired it because it destroyed my wife's kitchen knives, I thought it better to recycle it into something useful, rather than landfill. One side has very fine rippling like one sees from a gentle breeze; the other is flat glass. I removed the pretty plastic picture from the flat side.

 Logs will be planed down to about 1/4 thickness to simulate floating. The surface will be easy to clean, and the logs can be pushed around anywhere. Tempered glass is a pain to cut, so will have that done professionally...  I may be able to place it from below, and bypass the cutting.

  FWIW,  and still having fun.            

                   George

  

[Grampy1]

Great pic's of McLean's Mill, Mark, right here in my back yard. Well, almost. I try to visit it once a year as it's just on the edge of town.

Setting the glass from the bottom would be best and easiest. If I'm not mistaken, tempered glass is cut prior to tempering as it can't be cut after being tempered, or so I've been told. Don't forget the weeds. I'll be watching to see your outcome as I also have to do a log dump somewhere.

[HHPATH56]

I used Magic water for my log pond and saw mill complex, as seen in the following photo,(which was taken four years ago). The Magic Water looked great for three years, but then it began to curl up around the logs. I don't know why it did this after so long a time. I always use Hydrocal plaster for the base of rivers or ponds, (since it is water proof) It is possible that I should have applied a layer of plaster cloth to the surface, to keep it from curling up. I used sawed off round twigs for my logs and painted the smooth bottom a murky color before pouring in the Magic Water. I use a tip track to unload the electrically tipped flat cars of logs, into the pond. For large areas of water in harbors, I use the random patterned door plastic, (that is smooth on one side) I painted the bottom side of the plastic a dark harbor blue-green, then scribed the plastic and snapped it to the rough shape of the harbor bottom, (as seen in the second photo. I laid straight edges of plastic sections together to fill the bottom of may large harbor. Click on the photos to enlarge them. Then, click on the photo series to the left, to view other photos of may 24'x24' layout.Bob Hahn

[ratled]

Interesting to hear about that on the Magic Water.   Wonder if there were any others or are you just the lucky one. Anyone else hear of this?

I was thinking a little gloss medium should fill the curls.

ratled

[selector]

Oakhurst Railroad Engineer

I am considering another product for a "final" top layer.  So, I'm watching this thread for suggestions.

Thanks,

Marty

 

It is hard to beat gel gloss medium.  It can be spread like soft margarine, and then lightly stippled so that it will dry wavey, but not unrealistically crazed or crinkled as some modellers have rendered in their top layer.  It can also be tinted if you find what lies in your pond currently is not so good after all.

What you see below are three layers of two-part epoxy, with the topmost tinted with Hauder Medium Green from Wally's crafts section, and a pinch of Plaster of Paris thrown in.  Over the whole, once it was cured, I placed a thin layer of the gel gloss medium, unchanged, nor added too, and this is how it turned out.