Got a good lumber and building supply around? (Not Home Depot of Lowes) Hydrocal is actually a building product. I bought a 60lb bag of it years ago at the supply house for just a few dollars. Haven't needed any more since.
I use joint compound in thin coats for finishing.
I am so glad you asked this question. I used it along with the tape to cover the cracks when I joined my sheets of foam. While using it I wondered if it could be used for landforms also. Its very easy to work with and I'm pretty sure I'm going to use it at least as my roadbeds. Sounds like I'm also going to give the landforms an experiment with it. As somebody that has hung drywall, it does need to go on thin, but you can always add coats after it dries. After getting your desired thickness (I use 3-4 coats on drywall), it can be sanded nice and smooth.
After the glue dries why couldn't it be painted with an earth colored latex paint and then ground cover applied in the manner as if I was using plaster impregnated gauze over cardboard strips.
Yes I don't see why you couldn't paint it I just have never done it that way I will add rock casting etc. and then add ground cover around then but the paint is a good idea as the glue drys some what clear
One issue I see with using white glue is, if you ever get it wet again, it just takes it away.No different then getting joint compound wet after it's been dry. I have gone back over a land form or grade crossing etc.where i have used drywall compound with a spray bottle of water and misted it, got it wet enough and you can smooth it out and shape it if you want to a lot of times I just use my finger to work the wet drywall compound to the shape or texture I want it.
BATMAN A good friend of mine owns a drywall company. He told me It would not crack if you do thinner layers. The most important thing is to get a good primer coat of paint on it as soon as it dries. Apparently the compound gets a lot of its strength from the paint.
Please don't count on paint to strengthen anything. Over joint compound it will minimize moisture absorption and protect against light mechanical abrasion.
Dante
I have used joint compound for years and have had good results with it.
I use the premixed patching compound to fill in around rock castings.
There is no such thing as a bad day of railfanning. So many trains, so little time.
CIORI've put it on in thick layers in the past and had few real issues
Hi all,
I made a small hill just under an inch high with the joint compound after thinning it some with water and the cracking wasn't all that bad. In fact some cracks can be for the good (imo)
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
One issue I see with using white glue is, if you ever get it wet again, it just takes it away.
I've never had an issue with compound, I've put it on in thick layers in the past and had few real issues. Like I said, it is key to work in thin layers, but if you do make a mistake it isn't the end of it.
I've used drywall joint compound and other than the plaster rock castings is the only thing I use for scenery base. You can also but quick mud in large boxes for areas that require more strength or might end up thicker. Qiick mud is more of a plaster and water added later will not resoften it.You can then add your thinner layer over the top for shaping. The mesh drywall tape is great and I also use it to reinforce the rubber rock molds I make myself. I've had thicker layers of the drywall mud crack, but if you let it dry completly, you can just put another skim coat over it to fill the cracks. Drywall mud is pretty forgiving once dry, but is not as strong as plaster.
Allegheny2-6-6-6 You glue it to the frame work with a hot glue gun and then just paint the rosin paper with the straight white glue. If you want you can start applying ground cover immediately or if you choose to wait thats fine. When you come back to it the next day the glue drys as hard as a rock.
There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....
The problem I have with using dry wall compound is that as others have stated it is designed to go on as thin a layer as possible. Thinking of it in it's intended application for cover the screw or nails holes and seams you probably sand off better then 80% of what you put on to get it smooth and thin as thin doesn't crack. Same goes with stuff like auto body filler. Put the mud on thick and it will crack for sure.I have used it to transition things like grade crossings etc. to the top of the bench work.but I make sure to use the non shrinking stuff. Using that dry wall tape with the holes is an excellent idea I have tried it in the past and it works well.
If you want a good inexpensive method of hard shell simply use straight Elmers white glue. Yup if you create you skeleton out of cardboard strips or or even screen wire but I recommend the cardboard strips You take your red rosin paper the stuff you can pick up in any home center for something like $12.00 for 500'. It's used for underlayment for hard wood flooring. You glue it to the frame work with a hot glue gun and then just paint the rosin paper with the straight white glue. If you want you can start applying ground cover immediately or if you choose to wait thats fine. When you come back to it the next day the glue drys as hard as a rock. As good as any hard-shell method I have ever seen and it's "CHEAP" something they call me at home, I prefer frugal. I can't take credit for this as it's something I picked up from Howard Zane. He explains it fully in his book and I've seen it demonstrated in the Allen Keller videos of his layout. Once I tried it I use nothing else. It will hokd rock castings like a charm and I have also found if you choose to add your ground cover at a later date jsut spray it with a little water and add some more white glue and have at it.
iawesternDoes this work? Does it crack after it dries? Or should I just stick with hydrocal?
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Drywall joint compound will crack as it dries if it is put on thick. Only very thin layers do not crack.
I use joint compound, it is great and if you work in thin layers you won't have issues with it.
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
As an aside, you might check out the "drywall tape" next time you're at the bigbox. You can get it with or without adhesive and it makes a good lightweight space filler between carboard strips or such. It's got holes in it so the mud penetrates for a good hold.
Lou
I use Durabond patching plaster - it's much stronger and harder than drywall compound, can be mixed as thinly or as thickly as desired and applied either in thick or thin coats. It won't crack no matter how thick you apply it, and when applied over window screen, should be strong enough to lean on. It's also useful for casting simple shapes, such as bridge piers and abutments. It contains a catalyst and will set in approximately the time noted on the box or bag, regardless of the consistency to which it's mixed. I prefer Durabond 90, which sets in 90 minutes, but there are other setting times available (denoted by the number following the name).
I stained my landforms with latex house paint, diluted about half-and-half with water and applied with a cheap brush. If you use the paint full-strength, it'll not only take more paint, but it will be much more difficult to apply.
I got mine at Home Depot: under $20.00 for a 33lb. bag and it also comes in smaller boxes.
Both the (unfinished) landforms and the bridge piers and abutments were done using Durabond 90:
Durabond was also used to create the "water" in the scenes below:
Wayne
iawestern Does it crack after it dries? Thanks! Mark
Thanks!
Mark
A good friend of mine owns a drywall company. He told me It would not crack if you do thinner layers. The most important thing is to get a good primer coat of paint on it as soon as it dries. Apparently the compound gets a lot of its strength from the paint. I will be trying this so keep us posted on how it turns out.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Hi Mark: I haven't used joint compound, but an alternative is Structolite/Gypsolite, used as a scratch coat for plaster, available at big box stores.
Joint compound is the only thing I use for scenery shell, but I only use it painted over rigid rap, over card board strip webbing.2 parts compound to 1 part water works well. I also use colored die's depending on what kind of scenery I'm doing.
Greetings,
Has anyone ever tried using joint compound as a scenery shell? I have always used hydrocal. A friend of mine suggested using joint compound watered down about 1 part water, 2 parts compound. An advantage I could see is getting it easily at a big box store. Hydrocal is not easy to find in bulk. Local hobby store wants $6 for a small bag, I believe Woodland Scenics is $10 for a half gallon carton.
Does this work? Does it crack after it dries? Or should I just stick with hydrocal?