Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Cutting Flex Track

1701 views
6 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Cutting Flex Track
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 7, 2004 12:10 PM
Hello Everyone,

I'm using Peco Code 80 Flex Track for my N Gauge Layout. The problem I seem to be having is when cutting a section of track, it seems you also need to remove one of the ties from either end in order for the rail joiners to fit. Is this common or am I doing something wrong? Also once the two sections of track are joined it leaves a space where there are no ties. Are there ties I need to buy in order to replace the ones I remove or will the ballast just hide everything?
Thank you all in advance for your help, everyone here has been a great help to me and I've learned alot and hope to be able to help someone here soon.

Louie
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 7, 2004 1:20 PM
Well, I'm a newbie myself, but my answer would be, yes, it is common to have to remove a tie or 2 to install rail joiners. I save the ones I cut off, shave them smooth on the top, and slide them under the joint as appropriate for spacing after the track is laid. Good luck.

John
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Crosby, Texas
  • 3,660 posts
Posted by cwclark on Monday, June 7, 2004 2:18 PM
I cut my rail with a dremel tool cut - off wheel and yes you will have to remove a couple of ties for the rail joiners to fit...I use a strip of balsa wood that has the same dimetions as the ties, cut it to the length of the tie, paint them, and glue them in place with wood glue to the roadbed just under the railjoiners and track...the balsa works well because it fits under the rail joiners better than an old tie that has been removed and sanded to fit....Chuck[:D]

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 7, 2004 3:20 PM
You didn't say how you were cutting your track, but the two traditional methods are 1) Dremel, or some other cheaper brand of rotary tool with cut off wheel and 2) track cutting tool like Xuron.

With the ties, there are a number of ways you can fill in the blank. Most re-use the ties that have been cut from the end as mentioned.

For the gap in your track, this requires a little more courage but really isn't that big a deal. I buy strip styrene, two thickness and very narrow, like the width of a soft drink staw, or maybe narrower. I think will "super glue" in a strip, trim it with whatever will cut it - I use a sprue trimmer, but other tools will work. I then file the strip of styrene down to conform to the track profile - sounds hard, but it is easy. Run your finger nail over the joints to confirm they are smooth.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 7, 2004 4:05 PM
I have always cut a few ties off, I bought a Xuron cutter, great investment, after my track was laid i snipped the nubs off the top of the ties that i cut out, put white glue on the roadbed and slid them under the track,
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Culpeper, Va
  • 8,201 posts
Posted by IRONROOSTER on Monday, June 7, 2004 6:30 PM
Don't know about the Peco brand, but on the Shinohara I use, I can slide the ties back a little from the ends. I cut my rail joiners in half, then after soldering the connection I slide the ties back to the joint. Usually they are close enough together that I'm done.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Milwaukee WI (Fox Point)
  • 11,431 posts
Posted by dknelson on Tuesday, June 8, 2004 8:28 AM
If you look at sectional track you will see that the ties at the end are milled out a little to allow for the railjoiners. Obviously the ties in the middle of flex track are not milled in this manner. When removing and then replacing ties it might be necessary to scrape a little plastic away so that the railjoint is not a bump
Dave Nelson

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!