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soldering flex track

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  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: US
  • 506 posts
soldering flex track
Posted by snowey on Sunday, January 31, 2010 12:54 AM

when soldering flex track on curves, do you solder on both sides of the joint, or just one side?

"I have a message...Lt. Col....Henry Blakes plane...was shot down...over the Sea Of Japan...it spun in...there were no survivors".
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Sunday, January 31, 2010 1:39 AM

Before laying the curve, solder the non-sliding rails, which should be laid to the outside.

After the curve is laid, and the inside (sliding) rails have assumed their final locations, you can solder the inside rail joiners or not.  Be sure to check them for gauge (NMRA gauge, please) and for a smooth, unkinked curvature.  Ideally, they should have moved part way into the next piece of tie strip, not opposite the joint on the outside rail.

Personally, I don't solder any rail joints.  I pre-bend my flex to the desired curvature, including the very ends of the fixed rails, then fasten everything down with latex caulk.  Once the caulk cures, the ties aren't going anywhere - and the same goes for the rails unless the little plastic spikeheads have been damaged.  I don't rely on rail joiners for either initial mechanical alignment or electrical continuity.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Southeast Texas
  • 5,449 posts
Posted by mobilman44 on Sunday, January 31, 2010 9:01 AM

Hi!

In laying track (HO code 100 flex) over the last several months, I did something a little bit different for the curves.  For the largest of my curves (28-30 inch radius), I take two pieces of flex and fit them to a similar curve on the workbench, and solder the outside of each of the joiners.  The biggest reason I do this is that it is much easier to work with - as opposed to the hard to get to areas of the layout where the curves will end up.  Easier to get to curved trackage is soldered in place.

You will have to remove some ties, and the trick is to remove as few as possible.  Once the track is in place, then you can slide ties (w/o track "holders") in that area, and secure them accordingly.

The thing is, doing this "right" takes practice - no matter what method you use.  As I built my previous layout in the early '90s, I admit it took me a number of track joints and feeder wire soldering before I felt they were "good enough".  Ha, I even went back and cleaned up / replaced a few of the earlier ones when I was further along in the process.

ENJOY,

Mobilman44

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

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