To conform with typical prototype practices, use the next-smaller-sized rail for the guard rails. Besides bridges, guard rails were sometimes placed in tunnels too. If the bridge was on a curve, sometimes only a single guard rail adjacent to the inside rail was used. A lot of times, no guard rails were placed on a bridge. Sometimes just-plain very sharp curves anywhere would have a single guard rail adjacent to the inside rail.
Mark
MisterBeasley & Wolfgang... Can you tell us where you got your low profile curved trestle bridges? I need one exactly like you both have shown in pictures and have not been able to source one. Thanks!
Chris
willy6 I'm building in HO using code 83 track. What code track should I use for my bridge guard rails and do you have to by a piece of track and strip it or can you buy just the rail? Thank you in advance.
I'm building in HO using code 83 track. What code track should I use for my bridge guard rails and do you have to by a piece of track and strip it or can you buy just the rail? Thank you in advance.
When I set up my bridge, I was using Atlas Code 83 flextrack.
For the bridge, I used Walthers Code 83 Bridge Track w/Inside Guard Rails.
Because my bridge was actually two bridges in a row, I had to buy two bridge track pieces, cut and join them together because the Walthers bridge track is just short of 20 inches in length and the guard rails come to a point on each end of the bridge track section.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/948-899
Hope that helps.
Rich
Alton Junction
CN Grimsby SubDr Wayne, is this the CN bridge in Vineland / Jordan Valley in Lincoln Ontario?
Dr Wayne, is this the CN bridge in Vineland / Jordan Valley in Lincoln Ontario?
Yup, that's the one over Twenty Mile Creek. By the way, to the Forum.
Wayne
doctorwayneI used Micro Engineering code 83 bridge track. It comes with code 70 guardrail, which has to be installed. Wayne
I used Micro Engineering code 83 bridge track. It comes with code 70 guardrail, which has to be installed.
Ditto what Wayne said.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I've used code 70 for both.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
last mountain & eastern hogger Mr. Beasley, please give us the info on how you fastened those inside guard rails on your bridge. It would be appreciated.
Mr. Beasley,
please give us the info on how you fastened those inside guard rails on your bridge.
It would be appreciated.
I bent them carefully to shape, and then attached them with CA adhesive. It's important to shape them first, because the glue won't hold if there is any tension trying to straighten the rails out.
On this Atlas track, the plastic "tie plates" holding down the real rails provide a good guide for placing the guard rails.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
A couple of views of the real thing:
I used Code 100 inside and out. I make my own turnouts, so I had the rail lengths. They were cut and curved by hand, including filing down the heads at each of the four ends, and weathered after they were glued in place. I just used Weld Bond white glue.
This view shows the deflecting convergence at the ends.
MisterBeasleyThese are guard rails on a section of home-made bridge track on my layout:
Johnboy out..................
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
Depending on the prototype, guard rails can be the same size or smaller than the running rails, or not used at all, or used only on through girders and trusses, but not deck bridges...
Stick rail is available - some LHS still sell it by the individual length - or you can salvage rail from damaged flex track or even sectional track. Old brass rail is a good candidate for use as guard rails if you happen to have a couple of lengths of ancient fiber-tie flex track laying around. Guard rails are about the only use I can think of for the steel rails off some toy train sectional track my sister acquired at yard sales - the multiple rail joiners aren't a problem when the rails don't have to conduct electricity.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I would (and have) use at least one code size smaller rail for the guard rails. You can buy loose rail but generally (I believe) in quantities larger than you will need. It's simple to strip rails from a spare piece of flex track. 70 or 55 (use n scale flex track - its easy to get and cheap).
Also bridge ties tend to be both longer than regular ties and closer together. I did exactly the same as Mr. B as far as ties are concerned on one trestle where it is difficult to see the tie lengths. It worked quite well.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
These are guard rails on a section of home-made bridge track on my layout:
Here's some bridge track over a trestle:
Both are code 100, made with Atlas flex track. I removed all the ties and cut off the spacers, then replaced the ties right next to one another, giving the tighter spacing of bridge track. I think only Microengineering makes code 100 bridge track, and at the time, it was out of stock everywhere. For the guard rails, I used old rails from some code 100 Atlas brass track I had lying around. I didn't have to weather them - 40 years in the attic left a nice tarnish.
This bridge track method of "tie compression" turns a 36-inch section of flex track into 18 inches of bridge track, plus 2 18-inch pieces of rail. If nothing else, that give you rails to use for guard rails. However, I think it would generally be better to use a smaller weight of rail for the guard rails.