Altas N No. 10 turnouts...

[WP&P]

 I just bought my first couple of Atlas #10 turnouts (from their code 55 line), and I might need a primer.  I've been using Micro-Engineering #6's typically, or Peco in my staging yard, and both of these come with a spring that holds the points against the stocks, though neither is otherwise powered, etc.  Atlas, however, has a loose throwbar, intended to be connected to a separate switch machine.

It's extremely difficult for me to mount switch motors under the layout, as I am rebuilding old layout sections by placing new 1/2" foamcore or plywood over top of the old plywood and cork (basically burying the old layout), and with new track configurations and grades, there isn't always solid bearing below my turnouts, or else it is of varying thickness, etc.  Plus, joists weren't planned for this track configuration.

So what I am looking for is an alternative way to throw my turnouts.  With the spring in the other brands, I can just hand-throw:  I glue the switchstand casting to the throwbar and use it as a knob to toggle the switch.  I prefer this to Caboose Industries ground throws, which are grossly oversize.  The Atlas switches, though, will not be held tight against the stocks just by hand-throwing, unless I add something.  Any suggestions?  Are there alternate ways to mount Atlas's own turnout mechanisms that might be useful to me, allowing me to locate them somewhat remote?

[cacole]

 If they're where you can reach to throw by hand, Caboose Industries Ground Throws are what you need.  Use the sprung version instead of the rigid.  Caboose Industries stock number 97-202 in HO scale or 97-206 in N scale.

Here's a link to their web site where you can see what they look like:  http://www.cabooseind.com/index2.php?page=GroundThrows 

Or, if you can run a linkage to the edge of your layout, you might consider the levers offered by Hump Yard Purveyance.   Their web site is here:  http://www.humpyard.com/

[grizlump9]

 have you considered using an over-center spring made from steel of brass wire?  you can even make them from paper clips.  they take about 30 seconds to make and about 2 minutes to install.  there have been several several short articles about them in model railroader over the years.  they work best when installed over wood or cork on top of wood.  wish i could draw you a picture.  when painted they are barely noticeable and you just throw the switch by flicking the points to one side or the other with your finger.  i have installed dozens of them and they are trouble free.  perhaps someone can point you in the right direction so you can see a photo of what i am talking about.

grizlump

[Marc_Magnus]

Hi from Belgium,

You can concealed the switch motor in a nearby building along the track or under some scenery; both are up the roadbed.

They are easy by the way, to adjust them or to repair them.

If your yard is along a wall, you could place all the switchmotor in a flat building along the wall.

The linkage could be camoufled in the adjacent scenery and painted the same colours of the ballast. It could be concealed in the foamcore and covered with piece of cardstock along the way they go in the building. 

Make the flat building easy to remove, a good idea to fix it is the use of doors magnet.

Another way is to use flex linkage like the one used in RC model plane. You can flex them and go far from the turnout to mount the switch motor; some article in MR speak about that. I don't know if you use snap machine or slow motion motors but the last are the best to use for far away mounting.

Good luck.

Marc

 

Good luck.

Marc

[CSX Robert]

Here's an option that I think is kind of neat: Atlas Code 55 Ground throw

[WP&P]

 CSX Robert -

Great suggestion!   That was the kind of ingenuity I was hoping to uncover here.  However, I think I might opt to combine your earing-post switchstand with a homemade over-center spring, to make sure the points stay tight to the stocks.  Unless I am misunderstanding how your system works; you say the downward pressure holds the throwbar in place, but I don't see how it exerts any force to pull/push the points.  But I am starting to get some ideas about how the flexing up and down of the throwbar might be a way for an over-center spring to work... hmm...

The other idea that has some promise to my mind is a slide switch, like a DPST, rigidly connected to the throwbar.  However, size is an issue, probably requiring remote mounting.  But it would give frog power-routing and route indication.  Hmmm....

I found online a web site that touts memory wire as an actuator - apply a voltage and it grows by 3.5%, remove the voltage and it shrinks back!  Have to order it in a fairly large quantity, but with as many switches as I have... hmmm...

[CSX Robert]

I do want to point out that the earing-post switch stand idea was not mine, but Dan Crowley's. I have tried something similar after seeing it and it seems to work fine. From what I have seen of the Atlas code 55 switches, you do not necessarily need to have pressure to hold the points against the rails, just enough resistance to keep the points from moving.

WP&P

The other idea that has some promise to my mind is a slide switch, like a DPST, rigidly connected to the throwbar.  However, size is an issue, probably requiring remote mounting.  But it would give frog power-routing and route indication.

This has been done quite often also(one correction though, you need a SPDT switch, or DPDT if you want to use one pole to light an indicator). Here are a couple of examples:

John Saxon's Turnout Throws

Saskatoon Railroad Modellers Manual Switch Throws

[wm3798]

 Here's two options for you. 

First, accepting that the Caboose industries throw is too bulky, but also very efficient, I start by digging a hole in the foam next to the turnout, then I drop a Caboose throw in so it sits below grade by about an 1/8th of an inch.

I then fill in some scenery materials around it, and paint it, which helps it blend in a bit.  A track nail is pressed into the throw bar to go up to the points.

 

The other option is to use a DPST micro switch.  The advantage here is you also get an electrical switch that can route power to the frog, which is probably good to do on a long #10 frog.

I use a piece of Plastruct rod (a steel wire sheathed in styrene) which has some spring to it, drill a hole in the switch, then nest the base of the switch in the scenery with some hot glue, or just some Sculptamold.  I paint the handle silver to look like a line-side electrical cabinet, or black or brown to blend it into the surrounding scene.

Lee

[WP&P]

 Lee, your silver-cabinet DPST seems like the way I need to go; other suggestions seem to work better for larger scales.  The throw on these switches is less than 1/16".  Are you saying that the wire link between DPST knob and throwbar has enough flex to convert the DPST's travel into the much shorter travel of the points?

Robert, thanks for clarifying that the idea was Dan Crowley's.  My turn to correct something for you:  it is indeed a DPST that would be needed, as this is a Double Pole, Single Throw switch.  A single throw is like a light switch, it is binary, off or on.  Double Throw is the center-off version, where you go from A to off to B.  Double Pole or Single Pole is optional, but if one wants to route power to the frog as well as provide a signal indication, double pole is required.

Thanks for the links to John Saxon's and the Saskatoon club's versions.  I like Saxon's method, but I fear the short travel of my points would make the in-line slide switch fail; Lee's method is essentially similar but includes a way to account for travel distance.

 

[Metro Red Line]

 Put a strip of .020" styrene underneath the throwbar. It's thick enough that it will create friction under the throwbar and keep it from sliding around.

[CSX Robert]

WP&P

it is indeed a DPST that would be needed, as this is a Double Pole, Single Throw switch.  A single throw is like a light switch, it is binary, off or on.  Double Throw is the center-off version, where you go from A to off to B.

You are partly correct in that a single throw switch is either on or off, but a double throw does not necessarily have a center off position, though it can( a double throw switch with a center off position is sometimes referred to as a changeover - SPCO, DPCO,...- to distinguish it from one without a center off position, though double throw is still correct for both types) . What distinguishes a double throw from a single throw is the fact that a double throw switches one group of contacts(the number of contacts in the group is the number of poles) between two other groups of contacts, whereas the single throw simply switches one group of contacts between either connected to or not connected to one other group of contacts. In short, the number of poles is the number of contacts in each group and the number of throws is the number of groups that can be connected to the common group. Since you need to be able to switch the power to the frog between two different sources(the two rails), you need to use a double throw switch.

[spearo]

Try a "remote mounting kit" for the Tortoises if you like using the Torts.  I have installed one so far with a lot more planned and it works great.  You can put a Tortoise up to about 18" away form the actual turnout and it doesn't have to be in a straight line.  The Tortoise then throws the switch mechanism with a cable.  Tough to explain but check one out.

http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?ID=200478199

[wm3798]

This is a more typical configuration.  The "S" shaped wire allows enough flex to keep the points tight.  The first one I showed had the switch mounted down stream from the throw bar due to a space restriction.

Lee

[Marc_Magnus]

Hi again,

Take a look at this site, Mister Duedler  use really easy and scratchbuid device to throw his turnouts.

www.wesportterminal.de

Marc

[Marc_Magnus]

Sorry the good link is www.westportterminal.de