Mark, I forgot to add that the old Circuitron "Snapper" or any Capacity Discharge unit will overcome the melting problem, as all the current is discharged at the push of the button, and no more current flows untill the next push. Haven't seen any CD units advertised, lately, but they also were helpful in operating more than one turnout at a time, with their heavy jolt. JWH
Mark, Re: the one-way, burnt out Atlas Switch motor: This has happened to me when I erronously had the Common wire between the selector switch and the turnout connected to the outside screw and the Reverse wire connected to the center screw on the switch machine. This gave me only one complete circuit (when the Reverse position was selected and pushed, but no circuit in the Normal position...Also, Atlas selector switches are known to "stick" in the pushed in position, and the plastic of the switch machine can't stand the heat of extended current, and therefore just melt. Hope this helps....JWH
I have a different problem. Last night, I was trying to install two Atlas remote turnouts on my layout and ran into a problem. I can get the switch to move in one position with the proper push of the switch button, but it won't return or go to the alternate position when I push on the switch button again. When I repeat my attempt to get the switch to the alternate position, the remote gets warm. One of them got so warm, it melted. Junk?
That aside, what would cause an Atlas remote turnout (or switch) to only work in one position change? I'm looking for those who may have experienced the same thing. I don't want to burn up another $18 remote turnout.
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Mark
Joe is correct... you just need longer and stronger wire than what is supplied with the Tortoise. You'll still bend it in the same shape, just longer to account for the increased overhead. I have a similar set up (2" foam with 1/8" masonite) and I used both 0.37 and 0.32 (switched after the first 4) wire found at Hobbytown. That will still give you enough tension to keep the points in place when the switch is thrown. Good luck.
I'm sure that you will get many answers to your question but to get you started, Tortoise machines can be made to work in your situation. You just need to make a longer, stronger switch rod for the machine with a little heavier wire than is supplied with the Tortoise. Search the forum and you will find many other potentail solutions.
Joe
I am in the third year of starting to build a layout. I have finally gotten to the point of laying roadbed and track, but I have a problem that I need help with. I am using 2" foam on top of 1/2" plywood, I want and need, in some locations to use under table switch motors. Do any of you have any suggestions. I have been told that Tortise Motors will not work. Is this correct?. Please give me any advice that you can.