rrinker In case you were curious - model railroaders and rc plane people are just small users of music wire - it really IS used for musical instruments http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piano_wire --Randy No offense Randy but no not interested at all..............lol I get all the unwanted music knowledge from my 16 year old step son who is in the high school marching band but doesn't play an instrument figure that one out. I hear more useless crap at the dinner table about , metronomes (I guess their little ugly guys who live in the subway) bars scores, times, bla bla bla. It's real purpose is for operating r/c planes and trains there is nothing else important............lol
In case you were curious - model railroaders and rc plane people are just small users of music wire - it really IS used for musical instruments
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piano_wire
--Randy
No offense Randy but no not interested at all..............lol I get all the unwanted music knowledge from my 16 year old step son who is in the high school marching band but doesn't play an instrument figure that one out. I hear more useless crap at the dinner table about , metronomes (I guess their little ugly guys who live in the subway) bars scores, times, bla bla bla.
It's real purpose is for operating r/c planes and trains there is nothing else important............lol
Problem solved - the spring was the issue. Many thanks to all who took the time and trouble to help.
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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As mentioned remove the spring clip it's easily over looked. I use .047 music wire form K&S engineering stock # 502. I have no idea why they call it music wire as it's used to operated control surfaces on R/C planes etc.
You will need to drill out the hole on the Tortoise to accommodate the larger wire. I typically use this when I want to remotely mount a switch machine but don't have the room to do so directly under the turnout. I can operated a turnout up to 2 feet away without flexing the wire. The secrete is put the wire inside a brass tube slightly larger then the wire and secure the tube to the bench work. Some guys claim you need to run the lighter stuff Circuitron gives you to keep tension on the switch once it's thrown but I have yet to have a problem.
I had same problems on some turnouts and solution for me was as Maxman outlined.... stronger wire on the Tortoise. I didn't have Peco, but the Tortoise was more than the usual distance below the road bed. Heavier green wire used for flower arrangements bought at Michael's or any store with artifical flowers worked fine. I had to enlarge the hole in the Tortoise to accept the larger diameter wire. Easy to do.
Hal
HO scale Peco? They have a spring that will allow you to move the points by hand and keep them tight against the stock rails. The Tortoise has to overcome this spring. If the Tortoise is throwing completely, then it is likely that you need to use a larger diameter wire than the one the Tortoise is supplied with because the original is bending. Most people remove the Peco spring when they have some alternate method, other than finger power, to actuate the turnout.
However, it is also possible to reduce the spring tension and keep the spring in place so that you don't lose it. The Peco instructions should have a section on replacing the spring. There are two tabs that you have to bend up to remove the spring retainer. If you just loosen these tabs and slide the retainer to the direction opposite to the position you found it in, and then tighten the tabs, you should find that the tension has been reduced but you will still have the spring in case you want it.
Note that the above pertains to Peco code 100. If you have code 83 that might be a turnout of a different color.
I'm trying to install Tortoise switch machines and Peco turnouts. The switch machines work fine, but they don't seem to have the power to switch the turnouts. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? Thanks.