Laying flex tracks on curves

[grywyn]

Do the joints have to be even or can you leave them oneven as there end up being one rail shorter than the other, or should I cut them even.

[selector]

The rail ends, the last two inches, do not like to curve.  So, the ideal thing to do is to stagger the two joins.  This is accomplished by sliding the one rail end about four or five ties back into the ties, and then sliding the sliding rail from the length to be mated into the now vacant spike heads. 

You do this then the two lengths are straight, say laid flat and lined up on a table/bench/counter top.  Ideally, you would join and solder the ends that cannot slide....the fixed ones.  This will help keep the curve at the staggered joint nice and natural.  You can use a fine diamond cut-off disk to saw a joiner in half and use that to join the two sliding ends back in the ties.  Solder them before you leave the bench so that they, too, are resistant to kinking or staying straight.

Then, you take the two joined lengths and place them along your curve centerline on the layout, and tack them gently into place so they don't move.  Use a needle file to mark where you need to cut the one end that must be mated to what is extant on the layout, lift it again, make your nice cut with a Xuron rail nipper, dress the newly cut ends with a needle file to remove rough edges, and them semi-permanently place the length into position.

-Crandell

[E-L man tom]

Generally, it has been my experience that any curved joint using flex track is first laid straight, soldering the joint then laying the curve out on the roadbed. That way you have all one piece of track on the curve and there is no problem with laying out the curve on the joint and it does not matter where the joints are on either side of the track.

[doctorwayne]

I did my curves the same way as Tom, soldering two lengths of track together (both rails), then laying the track.  If the curve is longer than two track lengths, leave at least 1' of the spiked-in-place track straight, and solder on another length of track - you can trim of some of the extending rail from the track that's in place, if you like, or simply slide the corresponding rail of the new section so that you can thread the extending rail into the next section of ties.  Continue curving as required, leaving the end straight as you add subsequent sections.

Wayne

[Texas Zepher]

grywyn

Do the joints have to be even or can you leave them oneven as there end up being one rail shorter than the other, or should I cut them even.

No, in fact it is better if they are not even.  Having a joint on one side and a solid rail on the other prevents kinks.  Do not cut off the rails.

I lay the one rail and let the ends do what they may.   I then slide the rail from the next piece of track into the ties on the one that is laid or vice versa.   That requires modification to the fewest number of ties (if done right zero ties are destroyed).   If one uses the join-on-bench and then put into place it can destroy bunches of ties.  In that scenario one must put in fake ties to make it look good, get out the track gauge to make certain it is still right.  A lot more work than just using what is available.

Zero ties were destroyed in the creation of this offset joint.   The tighter the curve the more quickly the joints will offset.   I've often cut the first rail to give me a greater offset than this particular one shows.

A joint that someone at the club did on the bench and then put in place.  Six ties were destroyed in the creation of this joint.


 

[Allegheny2-6-6-6]

 I just finished this afternoon a 48"double track mainline curve out in my shop and will install it with the help of a friend tomorrow some time.I used birch plywood then homasote as a sub roadbed then Homabed mainline roadbed and being as this area is highly visible I decided to use Micro Engineers pre-weathered flex track. So as many of you know ME flex track isn't the simplest thing to bend so working on it out in the shop where it was easily accessible form both sides with two of us slowly working the track it worked out perfect I am happy to say. I have even contemplating ballasting the track before we put it up on the risers as it will be much easier to work on.

I like others have found the only feasible way to do it is solder the flex track prior to curving it then set the track in place with either push pins or clamps making your adjustments before your secure the track permanently by what ever means you prefer yellow carpenters glue, silicon caulk etc. When ever possible try to not make track connections on a curve. If you can handle the long section of flex track so it will connect to where the transitions straight do so it will make your life a lot easier. Even on a straight connection some like to offset the rail joiners as they feel it's less apt to have problems

[larak]

Texas Zepher

A joint that someone at the club did on the bench and then put in place.  Six ties were destroyed in the creation of this joint.

 

 

There's also a bit of a problem with rail height.

[Sperandeo]

I make curved joints in flextrack as Tom described. I prefer not to stagger the joints, so the gap left in the tie strip usually amounts to only three or at most four ties. You can see an illustrated explanation of the process on page 78 of "How To Build Realistic Reliable Track," our latest "Model Railroader" special issue. (Which includes lots of other good ideas on track.)

So long,

Andy 

[wm3798]

 I use the method espoused by Andy and Tom, too.  It's very simple.  The first two sections get soldered together with rail joints.  It's important that this be done in a straight line, and that you don't end up soldering a kink into the track.  You also want to make sure that the "flex" rail, or the loose one, is located on one side of both of the pieces you are attaching.  That allows the track to continue to flex.

At the end, if it's still on a curve,  just cut the rails flush with each other, then attach the next secion, making sure the track is again straight through the joint.  Once you have that done, align the track the way you want it, and install it more permanently.

Lee

[Robt. Livingston]

None of the above applies to weathered Micro Engineering flex track, but I have completed about 50 feet of it (72" radius, some tangent).   Trouble is, the spike heads grip the rail so tightly there is no flex at all, unless you shove the ties along in groups of two or three.  Both rails are firmly fixed in place, and ther is no sliding rail.  By working the ties by hand, I have accomplished very smooth curves, although it takes time.   I curve the track first, then trim and assemble the sections, then solder the joints.  All rail joints are staggered, but none by more than an inch or so, as you can't thread the rails back under the spikes (at least, I can't).  Real railroads used 39' lengths of rail, with alternating joints, which I may eventually cut into the rail heads with a rotary grinding tool, to get the realistic clickety clack.  With all the emphasis on digital sound, how come there is no clickety clack?  That was always one of the most pleasing and intriguing parts of railroading, for me.  I have found that in HO, a generous gap (at least 1/32") is necessary for an audible click, with machined wheels.  No, this has never caused derailments, as long everything else is set up correctly. 

[pastorbob]

Actually, most of the track on my 3 deck railroad is ME and I don't have all that much trouble bending it.  I don't however, use the weathered track, whole different story.  I also have a few stretches of handlaid track that were done back in 1985 when I working on my MMR in the NMRA.  I also had to build several switches as part of the program.  All but one of them are still on the railroad.  I built them on sidings, etc. because I was afraid they wouldn't last as long as the commercial switches, but they are all doing just fine.

Bob

[tomikawaTT]

Thoughts on laying flex track on curves (which describes almost my entire layout...)

• If there is one rail that slides and one that doesn't, put the fixed rail on the outside of the curve.  It's easy to cut the excessive length of the inside rail.  Stretching the outside rail?
• Pre-bend the flex to a close approximation of the desired final radius.  This may require just about tying it into a knot if it's Atlas Code 100 flex and you want a tight curve.  Just be gentle - excessive force will result in sheared spike heads.
• Let the loose rail slide, so there will be more and more stagger in the joints as you proceed around the curve.  Don't cut the rails to identical length until you've reached either tangent track or the neutral curvature of the spiral easement between the two curves of an S curve.
• Don't rely on un-soldered rail joiners to conduct track power.  Sooner or later, they won't,
• If your rails or roadbed might have heat or humidity issues, don't solder your rail joints.  Leave a little sliding room.  (If your layout is in a room with the temperature and humidity controls of a NASA clean room, disregard)
• Be especially watchful for possible kinks where the rails of a pre-laid turnout join the flex.
• And, always, de-burr EVERY rail end and take the sharp corner off the railhead where the wheel flanges might pick it.  Time spent doing this when laying track will pay off in time NOT spent cleaning up derailments (especially in hidden and not-readily-accessible places.)

Sure, it sounds like extra work - but once I lay a track, it stays where it was put and gives me years of trouble-free operation.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on almost-bulletproof flex track)