Am at the point where cork roadbed gets "glued" to wood sub-roadbed and/or plywood table top. Should I just use white/carpenter's glue; or is there a recommended alternative adhesive? And...
How does one insert or "attach" photos to this forum's post?
Thanks,
"G Flash"
latex caulk
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Yellow carpenters glue, haven't tried it yet but from what I've read you need to get a specific type of latex caulk
Specific type? Well, if the "cheapest stuff they have" is being specific, then yes, specific types.
You might prefer a certain color, but being that this is for the roadbed to the surface, you'll never see it. For track to roadbed, you might prefer the clear, which comes out white and dries clear, or possibly grey if you are using grey ballast, so if any shows through it will be the ballast color.
--Randy
I used yellow carpenter's glue, but white glue will also work. I worked to a drawn centreline, and used 2 1/2" nails to tack it in place, especially on curves. (I had most of a 50lb. box of nails left over from building my house and they were handy. Tap them just slightly into the plywood sub-roadbed, and when the glue dries, you can pull 'em out by hand.) Don't skimp on the nails, either, unless you want to end-up sanding all of the cork - if it doesn't sit level on the plywood and where it's placed, tack it.
I used Atlas flex track and turnouts, and Atlas track nails to fasten the track in place, soldering all of the rail joiners as I went along. The advantage of the nails over caulk is that you can make adjustments in alignment long after the track is in place, giving you lots of time to thoroughly test operation or to compensate for any seasonal variations that might occur. When you ballast, the nails can be removed, although I didn't bother.
Wayne
Allegheny2-6-6-6but from what I've read you need to get a specific type of latex caulk
I think that would only apply if gluing to foam; Something like DAP All Purpose Adhesive Caulk or equivalent would work on wood. It stays tacky for about 15 min so you have time to make small adjustments (and holds track for straight runs).
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/
I used yellow carpenters glue. Buy it by the gallon for about $10 at the big bix store. It's as cheap and good as you can get.
ratled
Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”
For cork to wood white or yellow glue works well. You can also use latex caulking compound of any brand. You do want to hold the cork down with brads or drafting pins or weights or whatever until the adhesive dries.
Photos. Trains.com website doesn't do photos directly. You have to put your photo somewhere else on the web and place a "link" (long character string the starts with /IMG http:www....) that points to your web stored photo. I use website photobucket. its free. load your pix up on photobucket. Once you get them loaded, use a web browser that supports tabs, i.e. can open TWO websites at the same time and let you click back and forth between them. In one tab start doing your post to trains.com. When you want to insert a photo, switch over to photobucket (in the other tab) and hover the mouse over the photo. Photobucket will display a chart with four different styles of link. Cut and paste the bottom most link, the one that starts with /IMG, from the Photobucket page into your trains.com post. This picture will appear in the trains.com post if you then select the "preview" tab.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Well, I don't haven't glued wood to cork but...
White Elmers glue works to glue foamboard to plywood and cork roadbed to foamboard. It makes a strong connection (as long as you let it sit overnight) and is almost as cheap as it gets, you can get a gallon jug at your local Lowes, Home Depot, ect. for about $12 and it should last you awhile.
I assume it'll work to bond wood and glue to.Just my ,
Jamie
P.S. using carpenter's wood glue sounds like a good idea to.
Cape Vincent Southern Railroad
HO scale Horseshoe Curve in 5’x10’
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latex caulk is the best; imo. very easy to work with and will provide a 'give' to its holding power for climatic changes affecting the rails/ties. latex caulk is easy to remove if you need to change the track location. a caulk gun and a 2" flexible spatula are the only tools needed to lay a bead of caulk.
glues will work, but they tend to dry hard and become brittle over the years. it will work and give you the instant result you are looking for, but in the long run (several years down the road) the glue will become brittle and will loose its 'holding' powers.
Caulk user my self, I just so happened to pick up 2 tubes from Wall-mart Wednesday for $1.22 tube. I all so use the caulk to hold foam together to make hills.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
I was asking this very same question last spring and received a variety of responses, ranging from white glue or woodworker's yellow glue through use of DAP ALEX adhesive caulk.
In the end, I decided on- and used- standard contact cement (DAP or Weldwood) on sheet cork that was being applied to a plywood table top substrate. I have my layout in progress out in a Florida humid climate- but dry garage environment, although there is A/C pumped in when the door is closed.
I applied the contact cement to both the sheet and the wood surfaces, waited 25 minutes to allow the cement to dry to a tacky feel, then used long 1/2" diameter dowels to allow me to position the sheet and slowly J-rolled the cork down onto the wood. I then trimmed the edges of the cork where it overhung the table dimensions and have had no problems since regarding adhesion or movement of the cork. I rolled as I removed the dowels, being careful to avoid air bubbles. At the end of the process, i re-rolled the edges to ensure contact. i then waited a bit more to do the edge trimming.
The cork I used was 1/4 inch cork sheeting from Home Depot- such as is used as underflooring in a kitchen or den room. I have found that I was lucky at that time, as many HD's no longer stock this item in roll form, at least in west central Florida.
I am placing cork roadbed on the cork surface where main lines and such are located, but laying track directly on the sheet surface where railyard and side tracks are located. For this, I am using the ALEX adhesive caulk, which many others have recommended. Make sure that the caulk is spread thin with a plastic drywall tool or just a piece of styrene, to ensure best adhesion, and avoid unsightly build-up between ties.
Th
Allegheny2-6-6-6 Yellow carpenters glue, haven't tried it yet but from what I've read you need to get a specific type of latex caulk
No specific brand but I do avoid the silicone based adhesive caulks for track laying purposes mainly because I don't care for the slightly oily feel and you aren't looking to seal or waterproof anything.
I use the standard latex adhesive caulk that comes out white and dries clear. You spread it to a thin coating.
Dave Nelson