I just got my issue of "Realistic Reliable Track" from MR. There's an article about building quiet roadbed which suggests a sandwich of "camper's tape" and cork or Homabed. Unfortunately he gives no hint where to buy such tape. Any ideas? - Bill
Bill, it is commonly used to seal and stop squeeks between a camper shell and the top of a pickup bed's sides. If WallMart doesn't have it in their Automotive Dept I would try auto Parts Stores, and if no luck there I would find a camper shell dealer/installer. That was a neat article and I am also thinking about trying it. John
Hi Bill,Both David and John have given good advice. I'll just add that this tape also goes by such names as topper tape and cap tape. It's a pretty common automotive item and I doubt that you'll have much trouble locating a supply.
Thanks for reading our special issue,
Andy
Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine
Hi Andy - Thanks for the reply. I've been a subscriber off and on (currently on) since 1968. I'm in the process of building my "retirement" layout so I wanted to get it right this time. The special issue came along just in time for me as I am currently constructing the benchwork. First time with L-Girders.
http://cwhowell2.com/modelrr/modelrr.htm
Regards - Bill
Home Depot has it in their weather stripping dept. BILL
Sounds a lot like Chuck Hitchcock" Quick & easy Flextrack" article in the Aug 2003 MR issue; 2 pages on using caulk and using topper tape with pictures. The "issue" with topper tape is that is adhesive on only one side. Chuck used a layer of caulk to secure the track to the tape.
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/
While at my favorite ACE Hardware affiliate this morning -- The price extended by my friendly ACE dealer was $5.59 for 30' (their Camper Mount Tape retails for apx. $7.50). This is one of those family hardware stores still in business after 100 years & three generations.
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
Bill,
I am using this method of camper topper tape and flex track on my V& T lines. It is described in Chuck Hitchcock's article already mentioned. I bought the tape at my local Lowes, in the weather stripping section, and is called "Camper Seal" foam tape. How I used it on spline roadbead is shown in my website http://home.mchsi.com/~mtuomala/. It works great.
Mike
Mike,
Thanks for the reply and the great pictures of your project. I originally planned to try spline roadbed (for the first time) but am not sure I will. There will be no grades on my layout and I'm thinking 1/2" plywood with camper tape and cork will be fine. Al large portion of the layout will be flat yard anyway, so I'm not sure the extra work and expense will payoff for my situation. - Bill
unless your planning on building a very large layout where the cost of the plywood would be outrageous stay away from spline roadbed. Go with your original idea of plywood with homasote over it and then roadbed. I am shying way from using cork as it drys out after a while I am in between ideas of either using topper tape or homabed which is roadbed made from homasote,a little pricey but it seems worth it if you know all problems when cutting homasote
http://www.homabed.com/site/890800/
Bill, neat pics of a great start! Lots of fun ahead of you! Re.: the roundhouse, if you don't have any rear views I would suggest one thru track w/ big doors ( for an engine or a flatcar load of parts) and at least one personnel-door on the back or side. Enjoy the learning curve! John
As others have said, "camper tape" should be available from most automotive stores. I buy mine from several local dealers/installers of camper shells. The tape that is prevalent in my area is made by Gaska Tape in Elkhart, Indiana - www.gaska.com. I use their product V610BK, polyvinyl chloride foam tape, low density, closed cell, with an acrylic adhesive on one side and a removable, heavy paper liner on the other side. It is available in several widths. I use 2" wide. It is about 3/16" thick. Cost is about $6 for a 30' roll.
Good luck, and have fun!
Bob Kingsnorth
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
Seamonster found it doesn't go around curves too well,
Try removing the paper backing (non-sticky side) before placing on curves.
Doc in CTSeamonster found it doesn't go around curves too well, Try removing the paper backing (non-sticky side) before placing on curves.
I read the article and was surprised the Author did not mention Woodland secnics foam roadbed.?? To me it seams to have the same feel as the camper tape.
SeamonsterDoc in CTSeamonster found it doesn't go around curves too well, Try removing the paper backing (non-sticky side) before placing on curves. I did. It wrinkles and bunches up a bit on the inside of the curve. A little "friendly persuasion" got rid of the wrinkles.
I did. It wrinkles and bunches up a bit on the inside of the curve. A little "friendly persuasion" got rid of the wrinkles.
You didn't read the article very closely no did you.........lol maybe just looked at the captions under the pics, look again he shows how he splits it with an exacto knife for exactly that reason. so just like cork roadbed your putting down two pieces instead of one large one. Where did you find 2" tape?
The topper tape works very well as a sound deadener as well. One note of caution when using it --- make sure the track is level from side to side before you ballast it. The topper tape will flex and squish causing your track to have dips and twists. I noticed (after it was ballasted) a section of curved track had a list to the side (not level side to side) causing the cars and locomotive to lean while going through the curve. It wouldn't have been bad for super elevation except it leaned the wrong way! Now I double check the level of the treack and adjust with spikes until it is ballasted. Happy model railroading!
Chuck
Modeling the Motor City