I have to agree with Nick......I use alcohol (Isopropol 50-70%) in a small plastic bottle with a long tapered nozzle and I just let it run into the ballast from the top of the ties. It will 'wick' itself right into the ballast and soak it. The use the 50/50 mix of white/yellow glue in the mustard bottle. I usually do about 10 or 12 feet at a time and it goes quite fast and little mess. I also use the foam brush cut to the width of the inside of the rails. It doesn't sprinkle the ballast all over. good luck. It ain't that bad!!
Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
I am also using Woodland Scenics ballast. I have it, so I am going to make it work!
At present I am using scenic glue ( white glue) to glue down the ballast on the outside of the track. I run a narrow bead along the edge of the roadbed where the bevel starts. I then use a 1/4 inch wide artist paint brush with bristles about 1/4 inch long to paint the roadbed with the glue. I go right up to the edge of the ties and down to the plywood subroadbed. ( My subroadbed is coated with plaster and painted.) I then sprinkle on the ballast.
After this dries, I go back and lightly sprinkle ballast between the rails. I use a foam brush that is cut the width of the track to spread the ballast evenly. I then use an eye dropper with wet water to soak the ballast between the rails. You can see the water also wet the ballast along the outer edge of the track. I then use an eye dropper with scenic cement to glue down between the rails. After this dries a bit, I spray the whole thing with scenic cement.
After every thing dries, I then use the point of a bamboo skewer to clean off the sides of the rail. I then use a bright boy and then vacuum. Any spots that need fixing, I paint on some scenic glue with my paint brush and then sprinkle on more ballast.
Craig
I find a finger rubbed back and forth across the ties is the best tool to finish placing the ballast. Then it's eye-dropper time, first soaking the ballast with 91% rubbing alcohol followed by the 50/50 mix of glue/water with a drop of detergent added. Let dry overnight and go over the track top and sides with a Bright Boy, then vacuum. I also use a 3/16" dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener to go down the sides of the rail to loosen any remaining particles of ballast. Yes, the WS ballast does want to float if you apply too much pressure with the liquids, but careful use of the eye-dropper will help this situation.
I use Peco Code 55 track. I sprinkle the ballast onto the track with my fingers a little bit at a time. I start with the center of the track and then do the outside edges. I rub my finger lightly across the top of the ties to help clean them off a little bit but then use a small soft dry paintbrush to gently brush them clean. From there I use a dropper to wet the ballast with a mixture of mostly water with just a drop of dish soap. From there I use the 50:50 mix of water and elmers white glue. It works great with little cleanup if careful. When dry I go over it with a vacuum cleaner.
The one tip that I have is to NOT use Woodland Scenics ballast. I have never had great results with it. Satisfactory maybe but not great by any means. It's just crushed walnut shells and they have a habit of floating when wet which leaves alot to clean up off of the rails and ties. I use Arizona Rock and Mineral ballast and it's wonderful stuff. A night and day difference from the WS ballast. It is made from actual crushed rock so it doesn't float when wet. It pretty much stays where you put it. I only use WS ballast now for gravel roads and parking lots.
I do the same methods described by others, but after the glue dries I brush the rails with one of these Dremel brass brushes, using a pin-vise for a handle (no power):
Then I vacuum off the balast to get rid of lose ballast particles. I like this kind of brush because it gets into flangeways better than anything else I've found. I've never tried a foam brush as a ballast spreader; I've been happy using a fairly limp natural bristle paint brush, but I hear lots of foam brush endorsements. Also, I add a little detergent to my glue solution to help it soak in better.
I've never found an alternative to the bright-boy as the final step to getting trains running. Track cleaning is part of the hobby.
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
Thanks for the idea of using a massage device to settle the ballast. I was always wondering how to make some of the ballast sit in between the ties better.
I use a massage device with a small foam pad attached to level my ballast.
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No need to use a mallet or palm sander...I just tap the rail with the handle of my brush. Works like a charm.
I also use alcohol to pre-wet the ballast. Then, use a mustard bottle to dispense a 50/50ish mix of white glue/water.
Nick
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Your method sounds like it works - and all methods have some mess involved.
Refinements:
Instead of spreading the ballast with a paint brush try one of those foam brushes -- it acts like a little bull dozer and does not fling loose grains around as much. You can cut it to the width you want.
You want the ballst to be flush with the tops of the ties. A piece of cork roadbed cut to size to fit between the rails is also a handy little 'dozer" for ballast. Before spraying cement or glue, pount on the layout with a rubber mallet, or apply a vibrating tool such as a palm sander, to make the ballast snuggle down. You may need to reapply some ballast. Them, try spraying rubbing alcohol over the dry ballast and you'll find the scenic cement or diluted white glue sinks in much easier. While the cement or glue is wet is the time to run a stick along the inside edge to prevent a stray piece of ballst from becoming glued to a flangeway or side of rail etc.
Dave Nelson
No Need to use full strength elmers. You can go to your local pharmacy and pick up a medium size eyedropper.
After placing the ballast first spray it down with wet water. This is simply a spray bottle of water with a couple of drops of dish detergent. this makes the glue flow better.
Next use the eye dropper to saturate the ballast with a 50% glue and water solution. You don't need to follow up with full strength glue.
The track will take a day or so to dry so be patient. Use a brightboy to clean the rail tops.
PS be very careful around turnouts. Avoid getting glue in the mechanisms.
Springfield PA
Searching for the easiest way to ballast code 80 n scale track. Currently i sprinkle the ballast carefully from the container to the track work, then i take a small paint brush and spread it evenly through the ties. After it is all even through the track i then begin to saturate the ballast with scenice cement ( 50% water 50% elmers glueall ) from a spray bottle. After it is completly wet i then sqweeze more elmers glue into the ballast itself, when complete and it all drys it results in rock hard ballast. This particular method seems to work ok, however it is very messy and can result in alot of track cleaning, which i hate. Just wondering how some of you professionals ballast your n scale track and if you can come up with an easier suggestion. Thanks.