I don't recall seeing a post on this, topic and it's probably one of those things with a variety of solutions. I am going to install a Walthers Built-up 90' turntable and have used cork roadbed throughout the layout. So when it comes to the installation, what are some ways to do this? It is best to mount the turntable on cork as well to match the height of the rail or if the turntable is mounted directly on the plywood should the track be gradually lowered? I probably have answered my own question but am just curious to see how you all have done this.
Thanks
There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....
HaroldA I don't recall seeing a post on this, topic and it's probably one of those things with a variety of solutions. I am going to install a Walthers Built-up 90' turntable and have used cork roadbed throughout the layout. So when it comes to the installation, what are some ways to do this? It is best to mount the turntable on cork as well to match the height of the rail or if the turntable is mounted directly on the plywood should the track be gradually lowered? I probably have answered my own question but am just curious to see how you all have done this. Thanks
When I installed the Walthers 130' turntable, I used WS Foam Track Bed on the arrival and departure tracks. I used the 12" x 24" WS Foam Track Bed sheets around the turntable and set the edge of the turntable on top of the sheets. In other words, I did match the height of the turntable to the track bed so that the rails met at the same level. You should do the same with your cork road bed.
Rich
Alton Junction
I installed my 130' N scale turntable with cork around the edge of the hole in the plywood. The rails laid perfectly over the lip of the pit and height-wise lined up with the bridge rails.
<<I installed my 130' N scale turntable with cork around the edge of the hole in the plywood. The rails laid perfectly over the lip of the pit and height-wise lined up with the bridge rails.>>
I did the same thing except I rebuilt both of my N scale 130' turntables with new decks for HO. They fit the length I needed for my shortline. These tables work great! They're accurate and I use Digitrax DCC and they automatically reverse polarity making wiring a snap.
My 2¢,
Roger Huber
My mainline is on cork roadbed. Where the track branches off the main to enter the locomotive servicing area, I used sandpaper to taper the cork down to the level of the supporting plywood.
The coaling tower, turntable, loco and car shops, etc. are all sitting directly on the plywood.
If you leave the tracks at the same level as your mainline, you'll need to elevate not only your turntable, but all of the tracks and structures associated with such a servicing area.
Wayne
Thank you for the kind words, Doc.
While the coaling tower was built some time ago, it was a pretty easy build, as I recall. I did modify it somewhat due to the rather constricted space available, though, ( the layout is only 30" deep in this area)
eliminating the second fueling chute and track. I also substituted some parts from the Tichy 400 ton coaling tower for those of the Walthers kit, as I thought the Tichy parts were more finely rendered. This included most, if not all, of the stairs, ladders, and walkways (I had built two of the Tichy kits, so had lots of leftover parts - most are available separately from Tichy), along with the coal chute and some of its hardware. I added the scratchbuilt sandhouse, plus the sand storage tank shown in the photo - the latter is a piece of a plastic paper roll from an old Telescript machine, while the sandhouse was constructed from .060" sheet styrene, plus doors and windows from the scrap box. These are visible in the third photo, above. I had originally added a Tichy sand spout, then later added sanding hoses as would be used for diesels. I am in the process of backdating my layout to the late-'30s, but left the hoses in place for the line's diesel-powered railcar:
Here's a shot of the railcar - it's often called a gas-electric, although it was re-built early in its career with a six cylinder diesel engine - the locals call it the "Bee", probably for the sound it makes and for its paint scheme - it even appears as such in the timetable.
Obviously, the Walthers kit lends itself to modifications to suit your site. I modelled mine with the coal elevator bucket in the down position - I simply fastened the "cable" to the floor of the pit, using the bucket as a "spare" as part of the scenery around the shop area. I also left the roof of the hoist tower removeable, in order to be able to gain access to the upper end of the cable - rather than cementing the cable in place at the top end, I looped it over the upper pulley, then tied a weight to the end of it - this keeps the "cable" taut, as thread will often stretch over time. The dump house shed was not cemented to its "concrete" base, either, in case I ever need access to the lower end of the cable or the elevator superstructure. I learned, belatedly, that the roofs of the concrete buildings were often coated with tar, so brush painted them after the structure had been assembled and installed on the layout.