I cut a big square hole and mount them from the top. No need for a long actuating wire or trying to line everything up while upside down under the layout. Of course, with work best for a new install or a replacement.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
I use a sandwich of 1/4" lauan plywood with 3/4" foam, so I have a ridgid surface to mount the switch machine, and a more or less standard 1" thick subroadbed. I haven't tried mounting a tortoise through 2" of foam, but I've been told it can be done. I would try cutting a section of the foam out, then making a plywood insert that sets down into the foam flush with the surface. This way you can install the machine and the switch at your work bench to make sure it throws properly and is mounted securely, then go back and work it into the foam by trimming and fitting. Once the track is aligned properly, cover the seam with scenic material.
I've never actually tried it this way, but it seems to me it would work!
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
Thanks
That similar to what I'm planning on trying
I will be sliding a 2 or 4 inch drywall knife under the track to protect it when I drill from underneath.
Springfield PA
Drill a small hole straight down a measured distance ffrom the throwbar hole.
Find the new hole underneath. Move over the measured distance in the proper direction. Make a second hole there. Enlarge it with a short 7/8" step drill. Push gently or use a drill stop if you're really worried. Carve out the foam with a knife. When you're ready you will be able to see the throw bar from below. (A light above the TO helps). Install the tortoise.
Also remember that you do NOT need to use the center hole in the throwbar. TOs move just as well pushing and pulling from the side. (That's how caboose does it after all).
Not simple but not difficult either.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
I think I found a solution. I'll hold comment until I try it tomorrow.
How about thinking outside the box instead of condemning foam as a useless product? Just because the only way the instructions for a Tortoise show is to have an oblong hole under the throwbar for the wire to waggle back and forth doesn;'t mean it's the only way to install one. I know of at least 2 alternatives.
The first works if you use only pink foam for a top surface, with no plywood underneath. It involves mounting the Tortoise to a small square of perfboard and droppign it in to a square pit cut out of the foam. This works best for new isntalls or repalcing the turnout, it would be a bit of a pain to pull up an in-place turnout and do this.
The second works no matter what your roadbed/subroadbed material, and is ideal for adding a Tortoise later without risking damage to the turnout. It's a modified version of the old Eshelman linkage and has been published many times in magazines and on the internet. It's also the method used by the Tortoise Remote Mount. You only need to drill a small hole down fromt he top - a hole the size of the actuating wire you are using. ABout 1 or 2 ties away from the throwbar. Form a J shape in the wire and drop it down, the long end goes through the hoel to underneatht he table, the short leg goes into a hole in the throwbar. Underneath gets a right angle bend near the bottom of the table, in any direction needed - perfect if there is immovable benchwork in the way. The free end gets a loop, the Tortoise gets screwed to a spacer block, and the wire from the Tortoise goes in this loop to move the wire back and forth.
That's two I'm familiar with, the first because I used it on my last layout, and the second because I've worked out using it on my present layout. And I'm sure there are plenty of others. "Big giant hole up from the bottom without destroying the turnout" doesn't have to be used.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Hamltnblue Even without foam roadbed and th 2 inch pink foam wouldn't there still be the same issue? There has to be some way.
Even without foam roadbed and th 2 inch pink foam wouldn't there still be the same issue? There has to be some way.
The danger of damaging the turnout coming from below remains, but when there is less material to pass through (foam roadbed is nothing, but the 2-inch foam is a thick something), the problem is lessened.
I still recommend the turnout be removed and the hole be drilled from the top. If the turnout throw rod is still there, use that and drill the hole to the side of the turnout, under the throw road. The rod can be moved up a big when the drill comes through to the top.
Mark
Even without foam roadbed and th 2 inch pink foam wouldn't there still be the same issue?
There has to be some way.
Hamltnblue Is there a secret to installing on switches that are existing? With 2" of foam over the plywood the only thing I can think of is trying to drill from underneath but am not liking the possibility of damaging them.
Is there a secret to installing on switches that are existing? With 2" of foam over the plywood the only thing I can think of is trying to drill from underneath but am not liking the possibility of damaging them.
You're probably better off removing the turnout first. I suppose it can be done by drilling from below VERY CAREFULLY but you risk ruining the turnout, but how one can readily get the alignment right is beyond me.
Also, the longer the switch machine has to reach the turnout, the more problematic the installation. Make sure you have a sufficiently stiff wire to make the lengthy connection.
This is just one reason you'll never see me using foam subroadbed. I think it is a plot of a certain scenic product manufactuer and a misapplication of a product that was first used where absolute lightness in a layout is critical, overriding all other considerations.
Hello AllI just picked up a 12 pack of tortoise switch machines to upgrade my existing Atlas turnouts. The first 2 are in progress and not a problem since I'm also upgrading the turnouts from #4's to #6's. I'm scratching my head though with the other 8 i have. Is there a secret to installing on switches that are existing? With 2" of foam over the plywood the only thing I can think of is trying to drill from underneath but am not liking the possibility of damaging them.I'm sure someone has come across this and hopefully there's an answer other than ripping up the turnout.Thanks