Does anyone have a strong opinion on whether the sliding rail should be on the inside or outside when laying curved track??
yes, i always keep the sliding rail on atlas code 100 on the inside of the curve. it is a lot easier for me to snip off the excess with a rail cutter and then solder the next length on and continue laying the curve.
i usually cut off one tie on each end and solder all joints. after that, i slip a couple of wooden ties in the gap and once the track is painted and ballasted, you must look pretty close to tell where they are.
i am more interested in dependable operation than super detailed track structure.
grizlump
It doesn't matter.
The fixed rail is just that: fixed. The length of the fixed rail doesn't change regardless of which way the section is bent. What changes is which rail needs to be trimmed, and the end result is still the same.
The moveable rail is the same length as the fixed rail when you start out. When the fixed rail is on the outside of a curve, you trim the inner, moveable rail which is now shorter than the outside rail. When the fixed rail is on the inside, you will have to trim the fixed rail to get the ends even, but the moveable rail is still the same length as when you started.
Whichever way you choose is a personal decision.
Took me a long time to 'think' this through, but only a couple of minutes bending a pair of flex sections to determine that the end result was the same, no matter which rail was outside.
Darrell, quiet...for now
As others have stated, it really is a matter of personal choice. I also usually keep the sliding rail to the inside of the curve, but on straight stretches, I try to swap sides. I'm not sure if this actually does anything, but the thought is to keep the sliding rail from "creeping" in the ties after the track has been laid for a while.
Hi!
I always keep the "sliding rail" on the outside of the curve. My reasoning is not about the rails, but the ties. The ties on that side are not attached to each other, allowing them to "fan out" as they go around the curve.
Having said that, given the rather large size radii of our typical HO curves, I honestly don't know if it really makes any difference. Its just personal preference and/or habit.
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
mobilman44 Hi! I always keep the "sliding rail" on the outside of the curve. My reasoning is not about the rails, but the ties. The ties on that side are not attached to each other, allowing them to "fan out" as they go around the curve.
I have heard this recommended by Atlas themselves. The ties compress together too much on tighter turns if you put the sliding rail on the inside.
To “me” the tie spacing looks better with the slid rail on the outside. But that is my preference and as always I do things my way after much research. As the primary builder the first person you need to please is yourself, all others come later.
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
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Another vote for outside (as a personal preference) but it honestly doesn't matter.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
I put the flexible rail on the inside. I find that when I'm laying the track, having the flex rail on the outside makes the track more springy and harder to control.
Of course, when the track is all glued down, there had better not be any more sliding rail!
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I keep the sliding rail to the inside - it's easier to shorten a rail than it is to stretch it!
Actually, I don't shorten the sliding rail in the curve itself. I let the overhang slide into the next section, offsetting the joints - which tends to prevent kinks at the ends of the sections of flex. All that's required is a little creative carving with a chisel-point blade to remove the fake ties and tie plates, leaving plenty of room for the rail joiner.
I also pre-bend Atlas flex so that it assumes a close approximation of the desired curvature without any fastenings or adhesive. There is one length that I pre-bent to 350mm radius a few months back, which is still sitting there, happily holding the curve without benefit of any anchor whatsoever.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
To the outside for cosmetic reasons. It really doesn't matter mechanically or electrically. Just remember to stagger the joints.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
hi, me again. looks like you are getting a lot of good advise. it appears that everyone has their own way of doing things. as for me, my tightest curve is about 32" radius so the tie bunching issue is no big deal to me. also, i solder every joint, always have, never had a problem. i don't stagger the joints either. i just go back and slip ties in where they are needed.
a lot has to do with how tight your curves are and the environment you work in. don't be afraid to play around a little and see what works best for you. as your experience and skills grow, you will find what gives you the desired rusults with the least hassle.
i'm sure we all use different and ever unconventional methods mainly because we don't know that they will not work.