I have some generic lettering that I am want to use on a Cornerstone structure model- "No Smoking" "Private Entrance" "Delivery Entrance" etc. Has anyone used inkjet printer clear address labels (matte finish??) (such as Avery brand or similar) to make and apply labels on structures? I am aware of inkjet printable decal sheets, but thought this might be another route to go. Thanks in advance for your comments!
Should work as long as they're inkjet compatable. You'll have noticable edge lines unlike thinner decal film that can be "hidden". I got some inkjet transparentcy sheets. I laid out some store front windows with lettering/signs/no smoking/visa/etc... Cut them out and used them for windows. Worked pretty good.
I was thinking the same thing while wandering through and Office Depot looking for glue sticks. Hard to find transparency material locally, so they seemed like an alternative. I agree with lothar, they would seem to be rather "thick" and wouldn't sit down in the mortar lines etc., but then ink jet decals need a spray of sealer to protect the ink, which might stiffen them. I also felt the price point for the labels wasn't any better than lower cost transparency material.
I tried some transparency material in my Epson R340, but didn't like the density of the ink (everything was transparent). I am going to try again with new material, as it is possible the material I used is for laser printers. I scanned the front or sides of the building to get a life-size template for adding window details.
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Doc-A little light like you said. Using darker colors worked better.
I tried to run them through the printer twice, but they wouldn't register and I got a double image. I think a laser jet would work much better. You could always set up your artwork and go to a print shop and use their color copiers.
A protective spray to prevent accidental smearing of the letters would be helpful. Ink from inkjet printers enjoys streaking with regular printing on white paper when in contact with water or moisture.
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I really think it should work alright, but one must remember that it is not going to look like its a painted on sign on a masonary or wooden wall. They will however look like a porcelin or metal sign or even a plywood sign that has been fastened onto the wall.
I would like to know what a person should spray them with to "fix" them and stop any smearing or smudging.
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last mountain & eastern hogger I would like to know what a person should spray them with to "fix" them and stop any smearing or smudging. Johnboy out.................... The Wobbly wobbles on.
What I would try is using Testors Decal Bonder Spray that they sell for their inkjet decal making kits. It's designed to work with decal paper printed with an inkjet printer, so it should work with self stick labels.
http://www.testors.com/product/0/9200/_/Decal_Bonder
I've used the decal kit items and found a few hints to pass on:
1) If you have a photo quality printer, print the decals or signs using the photo setup for your printer. 2) Allow the decal or label paper to dry at least overnight before spraying the Bonder, then allow that to dry at least overnight.
The only thing I'd think about using self adhesive labels is the question of long term adhesion to the model surface. Anyone have an experienced comment to this?
last mountain & eastern hogger I would like to know what a person should spray them with to "fix" them and stop any smearing or smudging.
Testors Dullcote on top of decal fixer spray.
Clear Labels will work to make highway and building signs where you're reproducing an actual sign made of wood or metal, They don't work well if you're trying to reproduce the background detail, such as a sign painted directly on a window or wall.
You can make really cool stained glass windows with them; download a texture from http://www.cgtextures.com/ resize it to fit, and print away (rotate sideways and print the long way across the label if you're really daring).
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