Which airbrush?

[Graffen]

loathar

Guess it depends on the person too. I talked to a T shirt painter last Summer who had all Itawas. He said he didn't like them and was sorry he got rid of his Paasch VL's.

That is like comparing the Atomic-cannon with a sniper-rifle all over. I mean look at what kind of substrate the T-shirt-artists work on: Fabric, and that is a VERY forgiving material. Have someone ever managed to get a paint-run on one? You could have a ridiculously high airpressure working with T-shirts plus the fact that the paint is thicker. The Iwatas aren´t made for T-shirt artists but more for the precision painter, and isn´t that what painting models is all about?

[loathar]

Guess it depends on the person too. I talked to a T shirt painter last Summer who had all Itawas. He said he didn't like them and was sorry he got rid of his Paasch VL's.

[andrechapelon]

Graffen

Well they can´t accuse the shooter of missing the target. Man, that´s scary

It's Andre's First Principal Of Marksmanship, to whit:

If you can't hit the bullseye, use a weapon will not only obliterate the target, but several square kilometers in addition.

Andre's second principal is:

Only use a nuclear device when you yourself are at a safe distance from the intended target and upwind of the fallout.

 Andre

 

[Graffen]

Well they can´t accuse the shooter of missing the target. Man, that´s scary

[andrechapelon]

Graffen

And I just bought myself a 12 gauge so I can learn to be a Top-Marksman

A 12 gauge? You can't become a marksman with that. What you need for true marksman status is one of these: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-v92nxahDQ 

Andre

[Graffen]

And I just bought myself a 12 gauge so I can learn to be a Top-Marksman

[markie97]

I purchased the double action internal mix from Harbor Freight and am very happy with it. It runs about $18. Being a beginner and not a heavy user this airbrush was perfect for me for learning. I also plan to purchase a Badger single action internal mix model 200 to expand my knowledge and learning. Badgerairbrush.com has a garage sale link to purchase these at a reasonable price.

I used part of the money I saved, to purchase an oil free air compressor with a 6 1/2 gallon tank and regulator for $89 from Home Depot. Based on previous experience with an external mix air brush, and for me as a beginner, this is almost as important as the choice of airbrush.

 My $.02

Mark

[andrechapelon]

And regarding the kind of Airbrushes I use myself, I actually own quite a few (c:a 40) but most often I only use these:

2 Iwata Custom Microns.

3 Iwata HP-B

1 Iwata RG 88

4 Harder & Steenbeck  (2 Infinity and 2Evolution)

And a bunch of others like Badgers, Testors, Paasche, No namers and so on. 

The favourites are the Iwatas, and the HP-B´s aren´t too expensive.

And the air supply. Yes you can use Co2 and Nitrogen to get rid of the moisture problem, but it will get more expensive than a cheap silent compressor in the long run.

By the way don´t get the wrong tube as I did when I was working at a Motor.show and I was going to use Nitrogen and took the wrong bottle at home and picked up my Nitrous bottle instead! (I used to race in Pro-street back then), I can say i felt funny after a while .

40 airbrushes? Do you also run an airbrush museum???

Nitrous will do that.

Anyway, thanks for the info. I was curious.

Andre

 

[Graffen]

andrechapelon

 

Graffen:

Use the most expensive equipment that you can afford. An Airbrush is a tool of precision! And as such it is likely that, the more you pay for it, the bigger the chances are that the Mfg has done a good work on it!

I'm going to go ahead and ask the types of questions that we non-professionals should be asking.

What you say is all well and good, but given that most of us aren't professional artists and never will be, couldn't we do creditable work without going to the lengths you do? I understand that one should spring for a good quality airbrush, but (if I may mix metaphors here), you don't need a Ferrarri when a Toyota will get you where you want to go, especially if you're not an F1 driver and have no pretensions of ever becoming one. For those of us whose airbrush work would be on considerably less than a daily basis, buying a top of the line airbrush would seem to be a case of gilding the lily.

Since you mention Iwata in a later post, the next most obvious question for a lot of people with respect to Iwata is "which one?". There are are all kinds of models ranging from those that can be had for less than $100 to those that normally sell for over $600. Even limiting the field to gravity feed/double action airbrushes still leaves an incredible array of choices

And use a good moisture trap, nothing is as frustrating as when there is water in the air-hose.

Question. Wouldn't using CO2 or nitrogen as a propellant obviate moisture problems?

Andre

Well I do agree that a Ferrari and a Toyota is different cars but still, the instrument you work with, even as a hobbyist, can´t be limiting. And by that I mean that you should set the limits and not the Airbrush. If you have inferior materials the result is most likely to be the same. The same goes for paints too.

And regarding the kind of Airbrushes I use myself, I actually own quite a few (c:a 40) but most often I only use these:

2 Iwata Custom Microns.

3 Iwata HP-B

1 Iwata RG 88

4 Harder & Steenbeck  (2 Infinity and 2Evolution)

And a bunch of others like Badgers, Testors, Paasche, No namers and so on. 

The favourites are the Iwatas, and the HP-B´s aren´t too expensive.

And the air supply. Yes you can use Co2 and Nitrogen to get rid of the moisture problem, but it will get more expensive than a cheap silent compressor in the long run.

By the way don´t get the wrong tube as I did when I was working at a Motor.show and I was going to use Nitrogen and took the wrong bottle at home and picked up my Nitrous bottle instead! (I used to race in Pro-street back then), I can say i felt funny after a while .

 

[andrechapelon]

 

Graffen:

Use the most expensive equipment that you can afford. An Airbrush is a tool of precision! And as such it is likely that, the more you pay for it, the bigger the chances are that the Mfg has done a good work on it!

I'm going to go ahead and ask the types of questions that we non-professionals should be asking.

What you say is all well and good, but given that most of us aren't professional artists and never will be, couldn't we do creditable work without going to the lengths you do? I understand that one should spring for a good quality airbrush, but (if I may mix metaphors here), you don't need a Ferrarri when a Toyota will get you where you want to go, especially if you're not an F1 driver and have no pretensions of ever becoming one. For those of us whose airbrush work would be on considerably less than a daily basis, buying a top of the line airbrush would seem to be a case of gilding the lily.

Since you mention Iwata in a later post, the next most obvious question for a lot of people with respect to Iwata is "which one?". There are are all kinds of models ranging from those that can be had for less than $100 to those that normally sell for over $600. Even limiting the field to gravity feed/double action airbrushes still leaves an incredible array of choices

And use a good moisture trap, nothing is as frustrating as when there is water in the air-hose.

Question. Wouldn't using CO2 or nitrogen as a propellant obviate moisture problems?

Andre

[maxman]

Graffen

An Airbrush is a tool of precision! And as such it is likely that, the more you pay for it, the bigger the chances are that the Mfg has done a good work on it!

What kind of sacrilege is this?  Do you really have the audacity to suggest that the $10.95 single action or $19.95 double action airbrush available at the local discount tool store (as some have suggested) might actually be inferior to the name brand airbrushes mentioned above?  Oh, the horror...the horror! 

[Graffen]

bobwhitten

My recomendation is the Pasche VL - not because it is a good one but because their spare parts are sold by most places. If you don't think you will need spare parts, think again. It is very easy to lose a small part. Bob Whitten

Well, the reason they sell spares for the Paasche everywhere is probably due to that they are in such demand!

But really. The needles and nozzles on the Paasches, what are they made of? Butter? I started my Airbrush carreer with Paasches and I had problems with; split nozzles and bent needles. When I started using Iwatas instead all problems vanished. I have for example seen on my reciepts how many times I replace my needles now. Once a year! And I use them everyday.

So, as I said earlier. Keep to the quality stuff and walk away from the others. My

[bobwhitten]

My recomendation is the Pasche VL - not because it is a good one but because their spare parts are sold by most places. If you don't think you will need spare parts, think again. It is very easy to lose a small part. Bob Whitten

[Graffen]

dadret

I've finally decided to get an airbrush for both painting and weathering but really don't have a clue which one to get.  Looks like Badger, Paasche, Testor, and Iwata are the major brands and costs seem comoarable.  I'm looking for an airbrush that is easy to learn how to use and maintain.  I'm pretty sure I want a double action, siphion feed, internal mix but could probably be easily persuaded to change my mind.  I know this is like asking who's the best team in college football but I love the variety of opinions you get on here.  I'd like to hear some recommendations please.

I have answered this question so many times in my occupation as a pro airbrush-artist and the answer is:

Use the most expensive equipment that you can afford. An Airbrush is a tool of precision! And as such it is likely that, the more you pay for it, the bigger the chances are that the Mfg has done a good work on it!

A double action is a MUST if you are going to achieve some kind of control of the results.

Why would you want a siphon feed? My tip is to avoid the side/bottom feed Airbrushes, the benefits of a top feed gun is that you can work with reduced pressure and slightly thicker paints with very good results (thicker paint- less runs).

ANother topic is what size of needle/nozzle assemblies do you need? If you have a 0.3 mm (allround) and a 0.2 mm (fineline/detail) you can probably paint almost all you will ever do as a model railroader.

Another Airbrush i can recommend that isn´t on your list is:

http://www.harder-airbrush.de/english/infinity_01.html

And use a good moisture trap, nothing is as frustrating as when there is water in the air-hose.

Good luck and happy painting.

And as usual to show that I put my Airbrush to work:

[Texas Zepher]

The second most ask question on the forum.  I've put at least one reply into each of these threads:

http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/112558/1294765.aspx#1294765
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/110259/1271445.aspx#1271445
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/42956/545096.aspx#545096
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/72424/878337.aspx#878337

If you want more threads on which airbrush to buy do a search for "airbrush AND buy".  That will produce about 39 pages of related posts.

[s51flyer]

I've had a Badger Professional, Model 150 for about 15 years.  I've used it on everything from real aircraft striping, pinewood derby cars, furniture, model rockets, model railroading and with polyurethane to enamel.  I've never had to replace the bushings, through I admit they are probably due.  Most of my mistakes are usually due to the way I've prep'd, mixed the paint, or the conditions I've sprayed in.  I spray using a Craftsman 5hp air compressor using a moisture filter and air regulator.  It's been a pretty good utility airbrush.  I spend more time cleaning the jar I used for the paint then the actual airbrush nozzle, since it comes off and I can drop it in Mineral Spirits.  I've never sprayed water soluable paint with it.  That would require a different set of nozzles, and I just like the urethane and enamel finishes.

 Bob O.

[4merroad4man]

You forgot one.

 

I use a Wren Airbrush form ITW-Binks.  This thing is built like a Sherman Tank, is easy to use and maintain and, given the skill of the user, provides outstanding results.  It is also very forgiving of beginners and while it might not meet your exact specifications, it is a superior airbrush in every respect, in my opinion, and I have used them all...from Pasche to Badger and beyond.

 Here is the link:

http://www.binks.com/gun1.aspx?id=287D14EF-28DE-44A8-9F2A-D97FAC4834E9

 Otherwise, anything from Iwata would be my choice.

[dadret]

I've finally decided to get an airbrush for both painting and weathering but really don't have a clue which one to get.  Looks like Badger, Paasche, Testor, and Iwata are the major brands and costs seem comoarable.  I'm looking for an airbrush that is easy to learn how to use and maintain.  I'm pretty sure I want a double action, siphion feed, internal mix but could probably be easily persuaded to change my mind.  I know this is like asking who's the best team in college football but I love the variety of opinions you get on here.  I'd like to hear some recommendations please.