Tight Rail Joiners

[Anonymous]

In the last few months, I have purchased a dozen or so Atlas custom turnouts of both left and right type, along with a few dozen packages of curved and straight track and assorted sizes, all code 80. In almost all cases, the rail joiners that came with the turnouts were impossible to use without significant and frustrating modification with a small screwdriver to open them up enough to slip over the rails of any piece of track. The joiners which came with the other track products mostly worked fine as delivered.
Is this a typical problem with Atlas custom turnouts/other code 80 N scale track products?
Is there a better tool to use to open these pesky things than a tiny screwdriver?

[Anonymous]

I've had this problem with Peco rail joiners as well, so it's not just Atlas. I guess the manufacturer thinks that tight-fitting rail joiners will improve electrical continuity (and therefore running). I either open them up a little with a screwdriver, as you describe, or use a small hammer to (carefully!) tap them into place.

[CBQ_Guy]

I know it's a PITA at times, but better they're too tight than too loose....electrically speaking.

Have fun!

[IRONROOSTER]

I have the same problem with code 100. I use an awl to open them up and then slide them back and forth on a scrap piece of rail.
Enjoy
Paul

[BR60103]

I keep a few pieces of scrap rail where I have filed the flange down to a point (or several points) so that I can use that to open up rail joiners. I then push it into the rail joiner with the other end of the joiner against a piece of wood. Slide the joiner all the way onto the rail.
Don't lean too hard; it's embarassing to explain the piece of code 80 sticking out of your chest.

[michaelstevens]

Try spitting on it (i.e. providing some lubrication -- remember "The Meaning Of Life")

Or as CBQ_Guy suggests "its better they're too tight than too loose"

That's a Roger !!

[Anonymous]

I use two pieces of Atlas 5" straight sectional track. The ends are filed down a little. I slide one end of a joiner onto each rail of the first track, then slide the second track into the joiners. I "open" the joiner by flexing the two pieces of track in a slight up-and-down motion.

If handy, after flexing and separation of the two straights, you can then mate the straight piece with the expanded joiners to the piece of track you actually want the joiners used on, using an X-acto #11 blade to slide them off/on.

[cacole]

Instead of trying to open up the rail joiners, you need to file the ends of the rail down slightly to eliminate burrs caused by the rail cutting machines. I always file every rail joint prior to placing a joiner on it. Use a small, flat file. File the bottom of the rail, both sides of the rail's foot, the top edges of the rail foot, both sides of the rail top, and finally, the top of the rail. If you run your finger along the ends of rail, you can feel sharp edges and burrs that are snagging on the rail joiner and causing them to fit too tightly.