I have just installed the newly released 130 ft turntable. It moves smoothly and looks good. I have two questions: 1) In programming, the instructions ask you to press the "set" button as you maneuver the bridge into each desired location. I press "set" and then the arrow requested and nothing happens. If I move the bridge to a stop I want to set, then press "set", it places the position into memory but when I move to my stops in normal operation, they are off mark a bit. 2) If a loco enters the turntable facing forward on a service track, and I need to turn the table to meet a radial track, with the loco facing the same direction, the "position" light flashes when I set the position, indicating I am too close to a previously selected stop. My roundhouse is directly across from the service tracks with the "no tracks" portion of the pit at right angles as specified. Does this mean I cannot program the radial tracks and if so, why not? I Am I missing something??
John
This is a cut and paste of the instructions I have for my 90'er, and they should be identical for your larger TT:
PROGRAMMING YOUR
TURNTABLE
Initializing the Turntable
Begin by plugging in the power
pack. With the power pack turned
off, press the SET and ZERO buttons
down at the same time. Now,
turn on the power and hold both
buttons for four to five seconds.
When the POWER light stays on,
the unit is ready to use. Press the
ZERO button until the POWER
light flashes, then release. The
turntable will move to the zero
point.
Programming New Stopping
Positions
1) Move the bridge from the zero
point to the first track you’d like to
program by pressing and releasing
either ARROW button.
Two stop positions are programmed
into the unit for testing
until you have programmed two or
also use these to test the operation
of your unit at this time – simply
press and release either the LEFT
or RIGHT ARROW keys. The
bridge will move in the direction
selected until it locates a factory
setting. The table will over-run the
stop position slightly when turning
counterclockwise — this is normal
— then back slowly into position.
2) Move the bridge to your first
desired position and stop the table
about 1/8" (3mm) from the right
hand rail. (If you go too far, press
and release the LEFT ARROW button;
touch and release either
ARROW button to stop, then move
the bridge counterclockwise with
the RIGHT ARROW button.)
3) Hold the SET button and gradually
inch the bridge rails into a 90°
alignment by pushing and releasing
the RIGHT ARROW key as
needed to move the bridge counterclockwise
— use the outside
edges of the rails as a guide to
check that all rails are perfectly
aligned.
(If the POS light comes on before
the track is aligned correctly, clear
the setting by pressing and holding
the SET key until the POS light
goes off.)
4) When the tracks and bridge are
aligned to your satisfaction, press
and hold the SET button until the
POS light comes on to show the
stop position is programmed into
the memory.
Repeat steps one through five for
each stopping position.
may be directly across from each
other, you must program a separate
stopping position on each end
of the bridge."
Sorry, this is how it appears with the software here. Anyway, did you follow the initial power-up sequence as described above? When the power light stayed on after first power and the double simultaneous pressing of the two buttons indicated, did you hold the Zero button down until the power light flashed and then let it up? Did the bridge move on its own to the Zero optical window? Had you removed the tape covering of that optical window?
Follow the clearing procedures and start over from first plug-in to get it to the zeroing point. I assume your zeroing point is somewhere within five or six inches either side of your approach track? That is where mine is....out of the way.
-Crandell
There are several things to consider when setting up your roundhouse and garden tracks:
1) Each track or stall has to be square to the turntable. When the table is set to that position, you should be able to sight along the track and across the turntable and the track should appear as a straight line. Very important for the next two considerations.
2) Each track has to be programmed for both ends of the turntable.
3) To save programming, I set my 9 stall roundhouse (about a 1/4 circle) in place and programmed both ends of the turntable for each stall (18 program points). I then aligned an open (garden) track directly across from each stall, keeping point #1 in mind (no additional program points). I did the same thing with my two approach tracks (four more program points). Remember, you're limited to 60 positions. I have 32 tracks, plus two approach tracks. Programming both ends of the table for that many tracks if they didn't align would leave me a few positions short.
By following point #3 above, you eliminate the problem with trying to program a point too close to another (which is actually the track/stall almost directly across the table). Make them directly across to save yourself headaches with alignment and programming.
PS to Selector: you didn't have to do a cut and paste, the whole instruction sheet is available on line at the Walthers site:
http://www.walthers.com/instructions/0933/09330000002829.pdf
Thanks, Tom. That is where I found what I placed here...I just didn't know it would take up 50 vertical inches! I wanted to provide the relevant instruction part in case he had somehow missed it.