Track installation question

[eds-trains]

I have started the temporary track installation using the “T” pins. This is working well for me. I cut and trim the flex-track to the previously laid section. I have soldered the feeder wires to the bottom of track joiners.

When I am satisfied with train performance, I will remove one section at a time, relay it using acrylic adhesive, and solder the joints.

Ed

[cowman]

Go with the long T pins to  hold your track down, they go through the cork and deep into the foam to give you a good, temporary hold.  I used them and test ran the trains before perminantly attaching it with latex caulk.

Good luck,

[Texas Zepher]

eds-trains

I have completed the installation of my HO roadbed (cork) on 2” foamboard and I am not sure what to do next. I would like to temporarily lay the track work and see how the trains run. ... I am not sure how to temporarily hold the curved flex-track (Atlas) in place.

I use long thick straight pins - the kind with round heads.  That way they are low enough the coupler pins don't hit them but they are easy to see and pull out when I want to go back and glue down the track.

 

should I carve my foamboard terrain and paint everything a light brown before I lay the track permanently

Yes to the carving part.  I say doesn't matter to the painting part.  There is so much additional painting during the scenic/ballasting actions it usually becomes a moot point.  On the other hand, sometimes one cannot tell how good a carving job was done until after it is painted, so pre-painting is good just incase there is more carving to be done.

[eds-trains]

Thanks so much for your suggestions and imput.

This Forum is the best. I don,t know what I would do without it.

Ed

[shayfan84325]

It seems that you are pretty committed to the location of the track if you've laid down the cork, so I recommend just laying it permanently (flex track is really not intended for temporary installation).  My approach is to put on my OCD hat (obsessive compulsive disorder) and lay the track as if I'd be struck dead if there is ever a derailment.  I generally use track nails, but from what I've seen of the acrylic/latex caulk method, it looks better (especially for foam).  It seems that push-pins work well to hold it in place while the caulk dries.

Once the track is down, I run trains on it for months (really); that way I can find and fix every trouble spot.  Then I cover it with masking tape and do the scenery (supporting structure through ground-cover).  Next the tape comes off and the ballast goes on.  Then I run trains for about a month (off and on), so I can find and fix any little globs of plaster or wayward balast particles without having to work around trees, buildings, etc.  Once I'm satisfied that the track is bullet proof, I do the rest of the scenery (a never-ending process).

[tomikawaTT]

Since you emphasized temporory, and are in the same leaky canoe I've been paddling, here's my method:

• Lay down some easy-to-use indicator of track position.  The tie line on the outside of a curve is a lot more useful than the centerline, but the centerline works well enough for tangent track.  (Spiral easements are left as an exercise for the student.)
• Pre-bend the flex track to the desired geometry, so it will hold the selected configuration without any fastenings whatever.  (Atlas Code 100 HO flex can be pre-bent to as little as 14 inch radius.  All it takes is a firm but gentle hand.)
• Anchor with track nails (or straight pins, if your foam is deep enough) so the stresses imparted by moving trains won't change the alignment.

 

Once the alignment proves out with my designated derailment tester, I pull the track nails, lift the flex, caulk the roadbed (grey latex caulk) and re-lay permanently.  Temporary alignment includes all routes through the sites of hand-laid specialwork, which gets built in place as part of the final installation.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on Atlas flex with hand-laid specialwork)

[ratled]

A very light film of caulk is what you are looking for.  Don't do the turn outs if you know you will be pulling all up.   If you just want a quick loop to run trains for a day then I used pins.  I put one on each side of the outside rail using the T to hold down 2 ties.

I hope this helps

ratled

[Medina1128]

If you're only wanting to temporarily lay the track to see how the trains run, I have a couple of suggestions:

• A staple gun to hold the track in place. Push pins would probably be in the way when you run your trains.
• A small spot of acrylic latex. It's simply a matter of running a putty knife under the track to remove it later.

As far as carving and painting your scenery, I've done it both ways. If you have your roadbed in place where you want it, it's easier to scenic and paint BEFORE you lay the track (it keeps paint, plaster, etc. from getting all over your track). Besides, you want your ballast over the trackside scenery, anyway.

[mobilman44]

Hi!

My layout experience is with cork roadbed over plywood, and therefore have no advice to offer regarding the use or processing of foam.   However, I suggest you pick up a box of bulletin board "push pins" at an Office Depot or similar store, and use them to temporarily hold your flextrack in place while you experiment.

Also, I personally prefer to paint my cork roadbed before laying the track - typically with a light grey color.  Others prefer not to do so, which shows its an up for grabs decision.

Mobilman44

[eds-trains]

I have completed the installation of my HO roadbed (cork) on 2” foamboard and I am not sure what to do next. I would like to temporarily lay the track work and see how the trains run. However, I am not sure how to temporarily hold the curved flex-track (Atlas) in place.

 

On the other hand, should I carve my foamboard terrain and paint everything a light brown before I lay the track permanently? 

 

ED 

Lakewood, New Jersey