markpierce I've always considered laying track over foam board foolish in my circumstances. This thread's question is one reason. Mark
I've always considered laying track over foam board foolish in my circumstances. This thread's question is one reason.
Mark
Because there's many different ways to mount turnout motors? Both the top-down (previous layout) and Anderson-type link (current layout) have worked well with no problems. In fact If I built my layout with plywood or splines I'd STILL use the Anderson-type linkage, it's so much better than drillign an oval hole under the throwbar, plus there's no precision required in mounting the Tortoise underneath. It can be off in any direction you want or need it to be (why move a joist to accomodate a Tortoise when you can just put the Tortoise on the other side?). Plus you can install the linkage after the turnout is in place since you don;t have to drill under it, just between a couple of ties.
There are certainly reasons why foam isn't the ideal option for everyone, but I hardly see how this thread reinforces that. Not with the multitude of solutions offered.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
This is one of the problems with the foamboard base. I have decided to use Peco #6 turnouts with their P-10w (not sure about #) low voltage machines. I can carve a nice hole through the cork roadbed and foamboard using my Dremel with router bit.
I also have a couple of Atlas #6 turnouts with under table machines. Atlas claims these machines can be mounted at a max. depth of 1-5/8” under the turnout. These machines do not seem able to throw the points at any depth below ½” and hold them against the stock rail with any confidence. I would like to use the Peco machines on the Atlas turnouts by gluing a styrene plat to the bottom of the turnout with holes cut for mounting the machine.
Ed
You could try mounting the switch machine in a rectangular opening cut into the foam to one side of the turnout, just deep enough so the switch machine is below 'ground level'. I suspect the foam is rigid enough that it would work OK mechanically. You can cover the switch machine opening with a scenic flap, using say a small section of rubber-backed grassmat. That would allow access but would make it pretty hard to see, after adding a little loose scenic material over the flap once everything's in place and working.
Thanks for the tips folks. Sounds like the "Anderson link" is a reasonable way to go! Will give it a try and let you know!
Thanks!
.039 Piano wire works great. Far better than .025 for 2-1/2" lengths. You can use thicker wire for longer distances, just remember to drill out the pivot hole.
The problem with really thick bases is that the pivot should probably be half way up into the base for best results. (Avoiding excessive throw and tension on the points). the "Anderson link" is a good method.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
A friend uses piano wire, which I assume is music wire for his tortoise machines with out and problem. Not sure of diameter but could check on that if you want.
Bill D
model in O. the Western NY and Ontario Railroad
s51flyer There's an article in the Apr 2007 (or 2008) issue of MR that describes a method for mounting the tortise in 2" thick foam. The author made a mounting pad that sits in the rabbeted edge of a hole under the turnout. The tortise mounts to the underside of the pad and fits down into the hole. Only drawback that I can see is access to the switch machine after it's mounted in places where you can't get to it from under the layout. Bob O.
There's an article in the Apr 2007 (or 2008) issue of MR that describes a method for mounting the tortise in 2" thick foam. The author made a mounting pad that sits in the rabbeted edge of a hole under the turnout. The tortise mounts to the underside of the pad and fits down into the hole. Only drawback that I can see is access to the switch machine after it's mounted in places where you can't get to it from under the layout.
Bob O.
Which is an idea that I first saw on the North California Freemo group's web site, and used for my layout at the time. Works very well. Since I would never ever solder the rail joiners at a turnout (never know when you might need to repair or replace one), it actually wasn't too big a deal to slide back the joiners and life the whole thing out if access was needed to the Tortoise. But in over 10 years of dealign with Tortoises, both with home and club layouts, I have never ever seen one fail. Even oen I have that I took apart (voiding the warranty) and abuse by moving the throw arm back and forth by hand at a rapid rate still works fine, although a bit more noisly than a brand new one.
I plan to do mine using a method like what Chuck described. Basically a J shaped piece of music wire that engages the throwbar and penetrates the surface a coupel of ties away, with the next size up tubing as a guide through the table surface. Underneath this can be bent in any direction to allow mouting the Tortoise anywhere it's convenient, or it can be engaged with a control line such as the type used in RC planes (the Tortoise Remote Mount basically eses ths method - I purchased one just to check it out, but buying the wire and tubing and cutting it yourself is far far less expensive)
To get movement from the machine under the table to a turnout as much as 11 1/2 inches above it, you can use a modified Anderson link. A piece of 3/32 brass tube runs vertically from a point on the roadbed about 1/2 inch (perpendicular to the throw rod) from a convenient hole in the throw rod, ending about 1/4 inch below the bottom of the bottommost layer of subgrade. A vertical link with a horizontal arm at the top (to engage the throw rod) and another at the bottom (to engage the switch machine drive) transmits the force to throw the switch.
For shorter heights, I have made the torsion link from a bent paper clip. For greater heights, it would be possible to use smaller brass tubing, with the paper clip material anchored into it with solder at the top, and wrapped around it and soldered at the bottom (being careful not to solder the torsion tube to the guide tube.)
The cable method mentioned by the previous poster will also work - I have seen it, but have never used it myself.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in Septmber, 1964 - with Anderson link point throw mechanisms)
I also have 2" foam at various elevations and will also have problems installing tortoise's in some spots. What I am going to try is using R/C airplane cable and mount the tortoise in a convenient location. The cable runs through a stiff plastic sleeve and moves vary easily. Keep us posted on your progress.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Folks,
I'm midway through construction of an HO layout that's using foam for just about every piece of vertical development, and have rails ranging from 40" off the floor up to 48.5", all climbing built-up foam.
Most of my turnouts (including the yards) are down at the 40" "table-top" level - on a mere 2" of foam above the riverbanks, and I'm using Tortoise motors with lengthened control rods with no trouble at all (total reach is 2.5" when you count the plywood base).
I do have, or have planned, a few turnouts at higher elevations, and it's appearing that a Tortoise under the table will have difficulty acheiving enough throw to actuate a turnout at (probably) 4" or more, and that I'll have to either bury a pivot point in the foam, bury the whole motor in the foam (i.e. elevated benchwork underneath), or go to a different style motor or mounting scheme which I haven't much investigated. The length of the control rods start to get to where I'm worried about maintaining sufficient "stiffness" - using 0.025" welding rod - though admittedly I have some tests to run.
This is all in a fairly tight area (48 sqft total), and using foam as carveable "terrain" is one of the things that has made this layout concept feasible - as opposed to having very complicated and intricate spiderwebs of wooden benchwork.
Anybody got any insight or tricks on how to accomplish actuating an "elevated" turnout such as this? Or experience that tells me I'm worried about nothing and that it's likely to work fine? Appreciate the help.