I have been using commercial track for layouts since I started in this hobby in 1993.I have, however, been kicking around the idea of handlaying track (especially as an alterantive to commercial turnouts) . I have, over the years seen many ads and catalogs for everything from rolling stock and motove power to detail parts. One thing I have not seen anything on is the rail stock for handlaying track (I have even seen the tools, ties and accessories for handlaying track) and I am wondering where to get this material. I am sure that someone on this forum has handlaid track, so if anyone has news on a supplier, I would surely like to know. Also, what about the cost vs. the use of commercial track? Finally, what is a good source (book, article, etc.) on learning how to handlay track.
Thanks
I know Fast Tracks carries it. I have bought rail, ties, spikes and tools from them.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Visit FAST TRACKS at:
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/index-2.php
Mine order just came yesterday. They have everything you will need. Be sure to get the point and stock filling jigs. They are worth their weight in gold.
I made my first code 83 No 8 turnout in just two hours, learning as I went. I can now mass produce these by precutting and filing all of the parts to make ten right and ten left hand turnouts and just assemble them one after the other. You can make one of of each on the fixture at the same time.
The Fast Tracks switch fixture is a boon to hand laying turnouts.
Most of the better LHS carry some rail stock. It's usually in tubes somewhere, and you often have to ask for it. The LHS can also order from their distributors. Walters distributes Micro Engineering rail, which is probably the most common make used (code 83, 70, 55, 40). ME rail is available in both weathered and unweathered versions.
Another source of ME rail and other handlaid track supplies is Proto87 Stores (http://www.proto87.com/). Andy sells rail in less than 99ft bulk packs, and charges modes shipping. He has a lot of different items for making realistic track in both NMRA and Proto87 spec. He also has some hints on building and installing his track supplies.
By the time you buy ties, spikes, and rail, you are about the same cost as flex track, or maybe even a little bit more. But handlaid turnouts are much, much cheaper than their commercial cousins, and operate better, too.
I used a Jack Work article in April 1963 Model Railroader as my guide to my first handlaid turnouts. I think it's still an excellent reference for my style of handlaid track. I also like Steve Hatch's methods and views - see http://www.railwayeng.com/handlay6/hndly-h3.htm. And if you don't want to make your own, Steve will build them for you using the same methods he shares with others.
The Fast Tracks videos are also useful as long as you keep in mind that they are centered around Fast Tracks tools, jigs, and supplies. I prefer to hand lay "flowing" track, which means I don't worry about whether I'm building a #4 or #6, a curved, or even a #3.83 turnout. I simply lay the track where I want it to go, observing my minimum radius and horizontal clearance standards. This has the benefit of saving me the cost of the Fast Tracks jigs, at the cost of a little extra time in construction.
Just as in many facets of model railroading, there is no one best method to hand lay track. There are a variety of methods and materials which work quite well. Try a couple, and adopt those that you like best, or best suit your particular situation.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
Thanks, Fred and to all. This has all been very educatioal for me. I do, however, have one more question: can I use handlaid turnouts in conjunction with commercial track?
Thanks again, all of you for your answers
E-L man tomI do, however, have one more question: can I use handlaid turnouts in conjunction with commercial track?
I do, however, have one more question: can I use handlaid turnouts in conjunction with commercial track?
Yes, absolutely. It's just like mixing brands of commercial track. You may have to shim or sand the bottoms of the ties of the flex track to get the rail heads even. If you use wood ties for the handlaid track like I do, you will want to sand them level and flat after gluing them down. I find this to be an important step for good trackwork. Then restain the wood ties and match the height of the flex track.
I also like to use long (often full 3ft length) pieces of rail for the stock rails of my turnouts. This helps by eliminating rail joints close to the turnout itself. And if there are several turnouts in a ladder, there are no joints in the middle of the ladder to cause problems. This means the joint between flex track and your handlaid track would normally be on the order of 10 inches from the actual points or frogs of a turnout. You don't have to do it this way. I recommend it because it helps the flow of the track.
Finally, I ensure the rail joints are staggered by a couple of inches. Where flex track joins handlaid, the stagger will likely mean removal of the flex track plastic ties and wood ties and spikes substituted for the overlap portion.
Finally, a comment on Fast Tracks jigs and tools. Although I don't and haven't used them, the Fast Tracks system does provide lots of "hand-holding" for building your first handlaid turnouts. If you follow their directions, it's nearly impossible to go wrong. Lots of mr's have overcome their fear of handlaid track by using Fast Tracks. Others have made the plunge on their own, and saved the money that Fast Tracks costs. Fast Tracks didn't exist when I made the plunge so there was no choice.
Skill levels for handlaid track is not that high - I am living proof. Doing a decent weathering job, painting a respectable backdrop, and airbrush painting a locomotive all take more skill than handlaid track. Hand laying turnouts requires patience and a willingness to keep at it until it is spot on. And that is where the improved reliability of handlaid turnouts comes from.