building materials

[Anonymous]

BUY THIS BOOK

[JPowell]

I got 1x4x8' from Chase Pitkin for 1.32/ea and 2x4x8's for about 2.50/ea and plywood 1/2x4x8 for almost 15.00 (ouch! that still hurts!). Home Depot in my area was about the same for pricing.

[Anonymous]

[?] i would like to know were you could get bulsar wood from[?]

[Anonymous]

I also recommend against using pressure treated wood for benchwork. It's much more prone to twisting and warping than nontreated lumber.

[Anonymous]

Hey all, I would not recomend using pressure treated lumber for benchwork however above Hudonmike said not to use PTL indoors. As of January 1,2004 all PTL is now Health and EPA freindly and you can use it indoors. The new stuff has a turqoise color streak in it, be aware though the old stuff is still out there until it is all sold. Also anyone living in a newer home probably has PTL in their home already, It's used where concrete meets lumber sill plates on the foudation and it is needed for the bottom wal plate in basement partition walls that come in contact with the concrete floor. This is local building code here in Ohio.

[Anonymous]

[#ditto] Painting/ sealing will keep moisture content at the level it was when you painted it. Make sure to prime ( I use two coats) sand lightly in between then apply finish coat. If you want better paint coverage have the paint store tint your primer. If you are clear coating use a sanding sealer first( I use two coats) then apply polyurethane, if you don't the poly takes forever to dry.

[Anonymous]

I have religiously been using 'How To Build Model Railroad Benchwork' by Linn Westcott and so far, so good!

One (time-consuming) tip I got from these forums was to pait the benchwork. Normally this would seem to be a huge waste of time but I believe it will minimize expansion and contraction due to temperature and humidity in Florida.

The book has been my guide!

[Hudsonmike]

To all you people DO NOT USE Pressure treated lumber indoors
.It give off dangerous Fumes.
I am a retired contractor and I know this is fact.
Also never burn it in your fire place either.
MIke

[Anonymous]

If it were me I would rip down 3/4 inch Birch plywood instead of using solid material of any kind. Plywood caries more weight and is alot less pron to warping than solid materials. 3/4 birch ripped down to 3inches you would get 16pcs 8 foot long. I figure and this price is high compared to actual cost$ 40.00 a sheet you would be paying $2.50 for an eight foot piece $ .31 a foot thats cheap!

[cwclark]

i like the pics.....and SP RULES!

[jfugate]

It's true that 2x4s are mighty big for layout benchwork, but on the other hand with the price of lumber, 2x4 studs are generally cheaper than the smaller stuff! If you look through the 99 cent stud pile you can find some lumber straight and clear enough you can use it to build benchwork.

I believe Miles Hale even has a clinic he presents at conventions about using cheap studs to build benchwork. He makes the case that if you buy reasonably straight stuff and let it season in your room for a couple months, you build a basic table support for the layout and as long as you make it level, that's all that really matters. Then you can build up from there with some smaller stuff, or rip the better 2x4s into smaller lumber.


Then ...


And now ...

Similar locations on the Siskiyou Line from benchwork to present day.

[cwclark]

I like using nothing but 1 X 4 pressure treated boards and building in "L girder "fashion with 16" centers...("grid" is ok too but grid has it's own problems.) The legs of the table can be 2 X 2 but if you take two 1 x 4's and fasten them together in an L shape they make nice sturdy legs that can be bolted to the upper section of the benchwork...I use nothing less than 3/4" plywood and "cookie cut" the roadbed out with a jig saw...thinner plywood (except the expensive kind like birch) can eventully warp... Chuck

[Anonymous]

i used 2x3 metal studs 16" o.c. with corner bracing on top and bottom surfaces to prevent some of the torsion that will occur. put styrofoam against the steel and luan plywood as the surface. it is sturdy enough to walk on. it is light. put good industrial caster like wheels on the long edge stud to roll the layout when placed vertically.

[Anonymous]

I could make a 4'6" depth, but then it would limit me too much spacewise. I'm using 22" radius and that's the MIN that my Acela will do. I'm modeling a small city so i'd like all the room as possible.

[cacole]

You can use 1x4 lumber for the framework and it will be strong enough to get up onto. Legs can be 2x2 or 1x4. A 2x4 is overkill for benchwork, and makes the layout difficult to move due to its weight. For extra rigidity, you can fasten two 1x4 boards into an L shape for the legs and mount them inside the corners. You might want to consider a narrower width than 5 ft 6 in so you can reach across it, but the narrower you make it the tighter your radiuses will have to be.

[Anonymous]

I'm new to model railroading, and currently have my train on the floor(but not directly on carpet). I'd like to build a "table" to put my layout on and to eventually build into a true layout. My current track plan is 5 1/2 x 10 1/2 and in HO scale. What's a cheap/easy material to build with? I know 1/4"-1/2" plywood with blue or pink foam as a top, but what about underneath that? The obvious is 2"x4", but isn't that extremely heavy? Also how would i go about building a modular piece? I'm not going to be able to reach the other side of a 5 1/2 foot table.
Any and all ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
chewie8han