On my brothers layout we have used entirely atlas code 100 flex track, most of our trains are steamers are from BLI and Bachmann spectrum, we run some 2-10-4's and some articulated engines as well. My brother insists that we use code 100 because he has heard from some modelers that code 83 comes with a load of problems like bad electrical problems and frequent derailments, especially over their switches, plus its more expensive and they say the height difference can be masked by ballast and weathering.
First things first, we are modelling the 40's and early 50's, and I personally have noticed that the brown ties of Code 83 look more properly spaced and positioned than those of Code 100. The rail height looks more realistic, of course when I look at some others' weathered 100, I can't tell the difference.
For my new layout I will be building at my house, what should I go with in your opinion? What are the disadvantages or advantages to code 83? Or should I just stick with 100 because its cheaper and I have more experience with it.
(I definately prefer the brown color of 83 vs the shiny black of 100 and the rails seem way too high for the time period I will be doing, the 40s and 50s).
I will be running my BLI T1 pennsy duplex on the new layout and I would prefer as few derailments as possible, should I stick with 100?
I want to run a lot of big steam in general, but also some diesels. All models are new though from BLI or bachmann spectrum.
Does code 83 have problems with electrical conduction? Lot of questions, please anyone with any personal opinions and experience, feel free to post. Thanks.
I have never encountered or heard of the problems you describe. I use code 83 rail as well as code 70 and even doen to code 55. When properly installed, rail joints soldered, electrical conductivity is no problem - also for DCC use.
I too have code 83 and code 70, even some code 55 tracks.
I've nearly zero derailments.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
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If You prefer the look of cd 83, by all means use it , I see no basis for the issues You're Brother mentioned about electrical problems with the cd 83. It really isn't all that more expensive anyway. Done right You lay track once, go for what YOU like. Good luck . R
I built my HO scale home layout using Peco and Atlas code 83 track products and have had no derailments or other problems at all. Atlas code 83 turnouts and crossovers are a significantly different product than their code 100 line. I fastened all of my track using latex caulk instead of nails, and soldered track joints except at turnouts and crossovers. Feeder wires are at every-other flex track joint.
I asked a guy at the train show if he was using code 83 and he said no because of problems with wheel flanges bumping against the rail spikes. Is this just with some older locos?
cacole I fastened all of my track using latex caulk instead of nails, and soldered track joints except at turnouts and crossovers.
I fastened all of my track using latex caulk instead of nails, and soldered track joints except at turnouts and crossovers.
We have used nails for code 100, (interestingly enough code 83 has no holes for nails) I wasn't aware of any other way, why did you switch methods?
I think your brothers friends (or are they friends of friends ) are attributing problems with sloppy trackwork to the track itself.
In my experience, because Code 83 tends to have finer detail, it moves more readily if not fastened down; rail joiners are a little smaller, so they don't hold as tightly if not soldered, and the lower hight of rails and ties means that it's easier to gunk them up with bits of solder or poorly placed ballast.
Code 83 requires a little more care and effort when laying track, but I find that is more than offset by the improved appearance.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
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rjake4454 I asked a guy at the train show if he was using code 83 and he said no because of problems with wheel flanges bumping against the rail spikes. Is this just with some older locos?
I think this guy is using hand-laid track. I have a wide variety of older and newer locos and have never had a problem.
Code 83 came about because it was a compromise between code 70 and 100. Code 70 did not let the old stuff run very well but code 100 didn't look right. The only thing that won't run on code 83 are some very old steamers and even they can have their flanges filled down. Me I run code 70 as 83 was just coming out as I got back in the hobby.
First, to correct a bit of misinformation. Atlas Code 83 flex has nail holes that are clearly visible from the underside - and can be opened up if you nail track.
The comments in the original post sound like the complaints of people who expect the track to lay itself. Even Code 100 flex requires some gentle hands-on massaging to go down level and kink-free. In fact, I find Code 83 to be just as cooperative as code 100 - but I am somewhat obsesso about getting my trackwork as perfect as possible. (Time spent laying it as well as you can is repaid by the time NOT spent picking up after derailments.)
I started using latex caulk to lay track after reading about other modelers' experiences on these forums. Some that has been in service under severe conditions for over two years now is still going strong. The biggest plus is that it holds the entire length of the flex, not just every few inches like track nails.
As things stand now, all visible track on my double garage filler will have Code 83 rail. My stock of Code 100 re-lay is being used up where the sun will never shine, for staging and hidden thoroughfares. IMHO the driving force in choosing which flex to use should be appearance - and Code 100 with wide ties just doesn't look as good as Code 83 with narrower ties.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with flex and hand-laid specialwork)
Can Liquid Nails for projects work to glue the track to the roadbed?
-RC
rcato Can Liquid Nails for projects work to glue the track to the roadbed? -RC
Sure, if you never expect to change the track plan once the ties are glued down.
However, 99 44/100 % of all track is eventually lifted for one reason or another. Something with a lot less tenacity will allow you to lift the flex track intact. Liquid Nails will probably leave you with a lot of raw rail suitable for hand-laying. (That's how I ended up with a stock of specialwork-building material. Not Liquid Nails, but a Japanese adhesive with similar characteristics, was the guilty party.)
My recommendation is to use latex caulk. If you absolutely, positively, have to use glue, pick one that's water soluble.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
As for the color of the tie strip, a lot of us spray paint the strip a color to suit. If you paint before laying the track you'll get little dots of unpainted track from under the spike heads when you bend the track. You can fix this by painting after you lay it or touching up after you lay it. You can also go back and use different colors on random ties. I do this with cheap ceramcoat and go down the track with a single color then go agian with a different color til you have the look you want. Yes, its a little tedious,but for some things there is no "easy" way. BILL